Strut rod stripped thread thread.

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California 72

California 72

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Location
Williamsburg Virginia area
My Car
1972 H code convert., 351C 2V, FMX, 9in., Ram air, Pwr Steering, Pwr Disc brakes, air-conditioning, 15" sport wheels, Ivy Glo w/white deluxe interior.
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In my resto-mod thread, I mentioned the strut rod thread issues and decided to remove the nut to examine the area.

What would ya’lls assessment of the rod be?

  • Screwed (damaged and unusable)
  • Just a Hassel (damaged but repairable)
  • Maybe really screwed (cost of tools and materials list if the fix fails and knowing you, this is it).
I’ll need the die to recut the threads since my set is very well used, nice way of saying worn out, and 32 years old plus I don’t have anything that large.
I was thinking of adjustable rods but at 4 bills a set, will I realize any benefit from spending that chunk of change. I already know the answer so it’s out of the running.
Thanks!

Honestly didn’t believe I would have difficulty with find the thread count and diameter for the rod but…
Anyone know offhand please. Thanks
 
My nu-thread file is picking up at 18 so I’m good on count unless of course I’m wrong. But out of 8 options, it’s the only one that matches well on the clean threads.

Great googly moogly, I believe it’s toast. There’s two runs of 2-3 threads that are gone and they’re too close for the nut to have continuous contact without binding and cross threaded. Oh well.
 
Last edited:
California 72 said:
My nu-thread file is picking up at 18 so I’m good on count unless of course I’m wrong. But out of 8 options, it’s the only one that matches well on the clean threads.

Great googly moogly, I believe it’s toast. There’s two runs of 2-3 threads that are gone and they’re too close for the nut to have continuous contact without binding and cross threaded. Oh well.
Click to expand...
According to my hardware list, it's 11/16"x18, but I agree with you, I don't think it will clean up enough to be usable, not worth the risk. $77 for a new one from NPD.
 
Plus one for what Don said...For what it's worth, I had a similar experience a couple of years ago. I redid my front end steering and suspension like a lot of members. The strut rod threads looked pretty good but not great like yours. So I just cleaned it up, chased the threads, painted them and reinstalled with the new bushings and new nuts. When everything was done, I took to the alignment shop and soon after they called me to say they couldn't align the car because the nuts were stripped out on the rod. It was still on the alignment rack when he showed me what was going on and he said while adjusting the nut it worked for a while then just started turning. He attempted to back it off and it still was just turning. So I drove it home (3 blocks) cut both strut rods off and replaced them with the Scott Drakes reproduction from Summit Racing. They worked perfectly for the alignment. So I understand you trying to make them work, like I did but in the end no such luck.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c9zz-3468-c
 
Late to the party, but as a former machinist, tool and die maker, journeyman for a bolt and threaded object manufacturer... No Bueno! Just replace, as Don and Mod73 suggested. There is no way to safely salvage those threads. My guess is the nuts are reusable and probably Grade B which is Grade 5 for nuts. The rods are probably more like a Grade 2. But given the relatively inexpensive costs for new hardware, I would replace it all- rod, nut, bushings. Bolts for securing to the LCA should be fine, but again, cheap to replace.
 
I will not compromise quality with tires, brakes, or suspension. There is too much riding in a car to use less than the best parts and highest quality of repair technique. For me, I use Moog parts for suspension, Raybestos or Bendix for brake parts, and excellent ratings for tires. For wheel bearings I use Timken brand only, no El Cheapo brands. There are some parts stores that actually offer two (or more) ifferent brands of wheel bearings. The Timken brand gets the really good warranty. The El Cheap get a very limited warranty. And really the price difference is not much. Inb=esg once, dont buy twice. Also, when working on tire, suspension, and brakes, what I do for one side i do on the other. I will cost more in the short run, but you nay never see the long run come if you use quality parts on both sides.
 
That nut was pretty well seized. Dang near pulled my bench on top of me trying to remove it. At that point, I knew but knowing ya'll get it with replacing parts, has to be a last resort. The rod itself cleaned up really nice and the threads all looked good in the once over but I'm guessing it was caused by a loose fit when I had a garage try and reset the alignment. It's either that or the suspension was worn so badly, they did tell me everything needed to be replaced, so having fun in the corners proved to be too much with everything being loose. But loose is fast, right? LOL.

The determination on the FE was why the car sits in the current condition. Anyhow, back to the nut being seized. It was so bad, it to be cut off in three sections. The first two cuts did remove a chunk but as you can see from the threads, that sucker was ready to camp out for eternity right where it sat.

I'll have more to post in the Project build threads so, that's to ya'll for keeping it and me honest. Like I said, I knew it, probably would have done it regardless, but hey, these things cost money too. LOL
 

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