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By the way, what motor is in your car? I don't recall it being mentioned. Is it the original motor? Hard to read oftentimes, but there will be a partial VIN stamped on the block just below the left side head.

Welcome from SW Ontario Canada. Nice find there. More pics appreciated, we love pics!! Congrats for joining as a supporting member by the way.

Could it be an unused mount point for air conditioning compressor? If it's NOT a 'through' hole, don't worry about it.

Chatham.

Either of those clamps are good. The spring clamps make things a lot easier to change and don't leak as long as they're in the correct position, which yours appear to be.

Hello and welcome from SW Ontario, Canada. You'll get lots of help here, so ask questions before discissions are made would be my advice. As for cheap, well that depends on where you want to go with this project. It's the little stuff that costs most oftentimes. Good luck and please post more pics.

Gotta be somewhere near then? Mind you, SW Ontario is a HUGE area!

Well I would call it "expertise", but something I've learned over the past 16 years of owning a Mustang. I too would tend to believe the hose is F/I rated or at least ethanol resistant so should be good.

When you replace rubber hoses on fuel lines, make sure you buy Fuel Injector grade hose. This is (somewhat) ethanol resistant at least on the inside. It's a bit more expensive per foot, but won't fall apart on you down the road.......... literally. Also, my pet peeve, NEVER use gear clamps on...

Interesting. Thanks for the education. I learn something new every day!

Just a curiosity question from someone unfamiliar with verts; Why are vert mounts different to any other 71-72? I know 73's are different, but why would the motor in a 71-72 vert need to be set in a different position?

The old one that failed is now long gone. I was not aware these could be repaired and to be honest, I don't think I'd trust it anyway.

Thanks Don, that's a good link and now "saved".

I thought I had got all the info I needed from this post, but yesterday I called the local Ford dealership again with the SW7663 part number and low and behold, they have it available to order for only $85.00 Cdn!! As the car is now parked up for winter, it can wait till spring. Again, thanks to...

I have a theory as to why nearly all 72-73 351C motors had 4 bolt mains; As ALL the blocks cast could be drilled and tapped for the extra bolts, Ford produced way too many 4 bolt caps. Only certain 70-71 351C blocks got the 4 bolt option. The M code was only 2 bolt for example. SO, as they had...

I'm trying, but it gets harder and harder to listen to all the whining.

It's the same here in Canada. It's called an "inflation spiral". Supply and demand. The supply has been either kept low artificially to inflate prices, or the demand has simply outstripped the supply after "covid", if you get my meaning. The result is every supplier in tern increases their...

My thoughts; I replaced all the lines with SS. The kits were from NPD, so no idea who made them. I had no real problem with the front system. I was replacing the old drums with discs, so it was a no brainer to do all the lines. The rear was a bit more challenging but doable. In my rear install...

I'm not sure about the engine block casting letter "A". If that motor is otherwise good, it probably should be a 4 bolt main, not that the extra bolts actually do much, so could well be worth rebuilding to whatever spec you want, keep it stockish or stroke it. I'm definitely not the engine guy...

Here are examples of head numbers and the block numbers (from my 71) You missed an opportunity to read the head #s when the intake was off unfortunately. In this example, the head shown is D1AE on 1 runner and GA on another. The date code is 0M1 or 1970- December -01. The block date code is 1971...