C7 AF-11450-A1 Solenoid

[Stanglover]

When I was a young working college student and had very limited funds, if I had a failed solenoid, I first drilled out the four rivets holding it together and inspected the contacts to determine why it failed. I found that MOST failures were corroded contacts that could be repaired with sandpaper or light filing. Then using either a pop riveter or four small bolts with nuts I was back on the road. The only solenoids I had to replace were those that the spring contacts had burned in two. You may want to inspect the failed unit if you have not already trashed it. It may be repairable.

Thanks, but it went in the garbage today and now long gone.

 

[Stanglover]

I thought I had got all the info I needed from this post, but yesterday I called the local Ford dealership again with the SW7663 part number and low and behold, they have it available to order for only $85.00 Cdn!!
As the car is now parked up for winter, it can wait till spring.
Again, thanks to all for your input.

 

[Don C]

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/st...79&utm_content=motorcraft>starting & charging

 

[mrgmhale]

Back in the "old days" those Ford starter relays (aka solenoids) were held together by machine screws with lock washers and nuts. If the copper disc, or bolt head contacts were worn out from a lot of use (arcing), a person would disassemble the unit, flip the internally located copper disc over, and turn the two large copper screws 180 degrees so the previously unused part of the bolt heads inside the relay would nowt contact the copper washer when the relay was activated.

The newer riveted design looks identical with the older bolted together relays. If the relay seems to work physically, but unable to carry a high amperage circuit when the relay is activated you should be able to drill out the 4 reivet retainers, flip the copper washer over, rotate the two larger terminal heads, then using bolts and nuts reassmble the relay. As long as there are no open circuit issues the relay ought to be able to last a long time.

 

[Stanglover]

https://www.carid.com/motorcraft/starter-solenoid-mpn-sw7663.html?gclid=7f9f84d0c6411a93e51ee3e9d628f3d0&gclsrc=3p.ds&msclkid=7f9f84d0c6411a93e51ee3e9d628f3d0&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA: Starting & Charging | YMM | 10%-Up | tROAS= 706.215%&utm_term=4580702896214879&utm_content=motorcraft>starting & charging

Thanks Don, that's a good link and now "saved".

 

[Stanglover]

Back in the "old days" those Ford starter relays (aka solenoids) were held together by machine screws with lock washers and nuts. If the copper disc, or bolt head contacts were worn out from a lot of use (arcing), a person would disassemble the unit, flip the internally located copper disc over, and turn the two large copper screws 180 degrees so the previously unused part of the bolt heads inside the relay would nowt contact the copper washer when the relay was activated.

The newer riveted design looks identical with the older bolted together relays. If the relay seems to work physically, but unable to carry a high amperage circuit when the relay is activated you should be able to drill out the 4 reivet retainers, flip the copper washer over, rotate the two larger terminal heads, then using bolts and nuts reassmble the relay. As long as there are no open circuit issues the relay ought to be able to last a long time.

The old one that failed is now long gone. I was not aware these could be repaired and to be honest, I don't think I'd trust it anyway.