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I feel like that's in a whole nother league than i'm playing in. There's so many other upgrades i'd have to do first before a carbon fiber driveshaft made sense. Steel ones have sent many cars down the quarter mile a lot faster than my car goes.

My new driveshaft wasn't terrible. $450 from a local shop. Dropped off my old one with the measurements for the new one, came back 2 hours later to pick up the new one with my old yoke on it. Maybe a tossup with swapping anything in the rear end cause if I open that up, I'm gonna spend a few...

My original one was too short. I had to get a new one. Reused the yoke off my original.

Yep. If its too nice, it just sits in the garage and you wipe it off with diapers.

I ignored the electronic speedometer hookup. Just zip-tied the little wire up. And then the mechanical speedometer cable connected to the driver's side.

What wires? On my TKX, the only wires required was a pigtail that turns on reverse lights. The black end with the purple and black wires came from modern driveline. I spliced it to a $5 trailer connector off the shelf at the auto parts store. And that plugs directly into our car's factory...

Restoring a car almost always costs more than the car ends up being worth. Even just in the cost of parts, materials, and tools. The more you have to pay for other peoples' labor, the more the scales tip against you. And this is what you have to watch out for when buying something already...

They don't seem to actually know too much specifically about the 71-73 mustang. They have experience with the earlier models. Some of that carries over to our years, and some of it doesn't. Like modern driveline says the T-56 doesnt fit our tunnels, but there is a member here who says he fit...

I would have gone with S for the last digit. No idea if thats even a valid one, but it looks like an S to me.

They add a rigid extension that lowers the upper loop and use a little less material to make the belt. Otherwise if they just dropped the top down, there would be too much webbing to fit on the retractable spool thingy. On the back, I just mounted the retractors up on the package tray.

Pistons are also machined from forgings. The molecules are smooshed together tightly and with the grain oriented in a specific direction. That metal is stronger than just a billet of the same metal. After machining and heat treating, they are weighed and matched in sets. Do to manufacturing...

I'm going with the hive on this one. You say whatever mileage is on your odometer unless the title says it has some dependency. If the car has driven 90k miles and then you replace 5 parts, there's still a few thousand other parts that have 90k miles of use on them.

The radiator hose getting firm, does it do that when you crank the engine up cold, or only after it warms up? And what happens when you run the engine with no radiator cap? Whatever was pressurizing the hose should come out the radiator opening. Is it coolant or is it combustion gases?

What's wrong with your factory pan? Is it something that can't be repaired? I'd take an original one with a couple dings and/or a couple spots patched over a chinesium reproduction. If I was gonna replace it with something new production, I say may as well go with one of those oversized...

The rubber hose coming out at the lower driver's side. You can pull the hose clamp, or just cut the hose and replace it, depending on what shape its in.

They are not identical. When I was ordering seatbelts for my 73, I needed front and rear 3pt ones. That led me to calling one of the big names in the business and talking with them a bit. The big difference is really cosmetic when you buy from the different manufacturers. The little...

I'd go to the local pull-a-part yard and snag one if $12 is too much for you. Pull-a-part probably wont even charge you for it. In the grand scheme of things, $12 to repair your AC is really cheap. I'd probably pony up for that and not spend the hour or two trying to find the cap somewhere else.

Injection molding and stamping steel is more up front cost than machining something out of aluminum. The cost of the molds and dies is pretty high. Thats not an issue for an auto manufacturer who is planning to sell 3 million cars. They spread the cost of the molds out across all those cars...

Will you be using the interior plastic dash trim? There are some trim pieces that go on the face of the passenger side dash and cover up that square hole for the seatbelt light.

Motor mounts for a 351C and a 73 mustang are like hen's teeth. There are no reproduction ones. Original ones are few and far between. You can easily get motor mounts for a 302 in our cars, and those also work for a 351W. Between a 302, 351W, and 351C, they can all be built from mild to wild...