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got it, thanks all.

after reading this again, I'm lost....  So, D4AE-6015-AA2 is what the ID and the 5D28 is the Casting Date?  I thought D4AE was 74 ford but the cast date is in 1975?   WTF? cant be....

Thanks Don

Attached is a 351w block id stamp.   I always thought the casting date had to be prior to the the cast id?  this is a 1974 - full size vehicle - engine code .   But the casting date says 5D28 which is 1975 - Apr.    What am i missing here? Thanks 

looking back, it's  easier to pull the engine.  The amount of time to remove everything and then do a half A** job installing the pan gasket while it's in this FUBAR position isn't worth it.    Best to remove  the  351w in this one.

Yes, can the pin be removed and replaced? didn't think it could. Thanks

I've pulled my front timing chain cover to upgrade timing chain and noticed when I put the Cam Gear on I noticed that the alignment pin was barely entering into the opening of the gear. I looked closely at it and it has a sharp scrape along it's side nipple. It also looks like it's been beaten...

I'm still trying to decide to put cam in and pull intake replace lifters. i'm running a edelbrock torker II 351w intake. I guess if I do decide to do the cam now, I am wondering what are the best type of LIFTERS to get, I know how to replace them but, don't know much about the different types...

I did have to remove the motor mount bolts and jack up the engine quite a bit then she came out...for anyone who wanted to do this.....my engine is a 351w.

I've take off the oil pump, sway bar, radiator etc....and there's no way I can see to get it out w/out jacking the engine up. I did try and move the crank around and play with it, but no luck. I've seen videos saying it can be done, but I don't know how. Will jack the engine tomorrow.

71 with a 351w. Engine in car. Need to get oil pan off since changing out timing chain and debris/water in pan. I don't have bolts in cross member (its welded). I have taken off pan bolts and it's free from block. I have taken off sway bar. My questions; If I jack up the engine under...

I'm currently replacing timing set and damper (balancer), and wanted to try and replace cam & lifters, while I'm in it. Don't know crap about cams but can install one. The block id is D4AE-6015-AA2 and was rebuilt back in 1985. Its a 28 Apr 1975 block. I know the firing order is for a...

I guess im on the "S" list or something here. Can anyone tell me if it's a 28oz or 50oz balancer? thanks

Specifically Balancer. Anybody know correct replacement, size, weight etc. Thanks for any assistance! Bill

Justin, I agree with you the set looks good to me. I am going to replace it (timing set) anyway since it's opened up. I did have good spark, but looks like distributor is off (somehow). I assumed it was the chain. I haven't pulled it yet but that's next. Spent hours removing everything to...

Balancer #D00E-C1 SD D5, 6 5/16" diameter, 8 lbs exactly. Timing Set #S430T (cam gear). I need replacement options. It's (I believe) a 1975 302 motor. Thanks Bill

Thanks jbojo/mike, I appreciate the detailed steps. That's what I was going to do, just wanted to understand what occurred. I'm thinking about putting in a different cam. I'm going to replace the timing set and harmonic balancer while ive got it opened up and not sure about the play in the...

thats' mu concern. when the timing marks are aligned on the crank gear and cam gear the rotor is at noon position, and the #1 culider corresponding dist cap wire plug is at 1 oclock. so, how if I have tdc with timing crank/cam marks did it slip out to 1oclock on the distributor rotor? I'm...

here are two w/out crank bolt, but taking off the bolt moved the marks.....

Here's the pics of what I observed. The chain has about 1/2" play (right side) left is pretty tight. The dampner looks pretty bad (rubber) one side other looks good. THe tdc marks on gears look right to me (exactly). Its' at TDC when I took pic of the rotor in the 12oclock position. I'ts...