1971 429 J code Pewter w/ black for sale

[Turbomom]

Thanks everyone for the comments. What we are going to do is buy the hood pins and if the new owner wants to put them on they can whenever they would like. I think that is the best option to go with. Thanks again for all the comments on our beautiful car, it is greatly appreciated. It is great to know how passionate people are over these great cars. Whoever buys this car will be very lucky in deed..

 

[Mister 4x4]

Eric,

I don't quite understand why you think installing the hood pins is such a big deal. It is very simple, and if done correctly poses little risk of damaging anything.

The "pilot holes" are already on the underside of every NASA hood already.

Simply drill the center drill hole with a 3" hole-saw attached from the underside. Then tape the area, reinsert the pilot bit from the top and drill the holes. A little bit of hand-filing to open up the holes a tiny bit, and just install the pieces.

Of course they are not really necessary from a functional standpoint, but to me they are very visually important to the authentic look of an OEM ram air car. They really "step up" the performance look to me. I also feel the same way about badr sportroofs ( or cheapky repainted Mach 1s) without the tutone lower body paint...it looks unfinished to me.

Even as a youngster, when these cars were new, I always thought a non-functional, non tutone NASA hood looked incomplete.

I have installed many sets of pins on these hoods over the years and never had an issue. It is quite simple.

Because I actually have hood locks, and wasn't sure what a non-hood lock-equipped hood was like. I just know that on mine (for sure) the round openings directly underneath the hood locks themselves were stamped with finished edges. Not knowing that all hood came that way, I envisioned someone just drilling the holes, hoping they lined up, and having unfinished sharp edges to deal with on the underside of the hood.

I guess it's just seeing all the hoods with the hood locks in the wrong places, or the hood pins (again, in other places than "normal") that made it seem like a much more complicated task. Your instructions sound pretty straight-forward and easy enough.

Good luck, Turbomom - I hope it goes well. ::thumb::

 

[Kit Sullivan]

Oh yeah, the underside of NASA hood has the 3+ inch holes with the rolled lips already there. Simply center the hole saw in them from the underside, drill the pilot hole up through from the bottom, then use that pilot hole to center the hole saw from the top and drill away.

Taping the area help prevent chipping the paint around the cut.

A little scary the first time putting a saw to a freshly-painted hood, but really there is nithing to it.

Once all the parts are installed, it is 100% indistinguishable from a factory installation.

The only trick is to hand-file the holes ever so slightly larger than 3", otherwise the hood dimples when you tighten down the brackets holding the pins from the underside.

 

[OMS]

Thanks everyone for the comments. What we are going to do is buy the hood pins and if the new owner wants to put them on they can whenever they would like. I think that is the best option to go with. Thanks again for all the comments on our beautiful car, it is greatly appreciated. It is great to know how passionate people are over these great cars. Whoever buys this car will be very lucky in deed..

I made a kit with repro or original tooling twist locks

Item #HLKIT71-73

71-73 HOOD TWIST LOCK KIT, COMPLETE 32PC, OE TOOL

Complete 32 piece twist lock kit, everything you need to install. Twist locks, retainers and catches are all made using Ford's Original Tooling.

Price: $269.95

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1861

Item #71HDLCKSET/R

71-73 HOOD LOCK KIT, COMPLETE 32 PIECES

Reproduction twist lock set up. Includes two hood locks, two radiator brackets, two original tooling catches, two original tooling retainers, AMK fastener kit F-1351 (12 pc kit), AMK fastener kit F-1631 (8 pc kit) and AMK fastener kit F-1630 (4 pc kit). Price: $219.95

Don

 

[Boss1Ray]

Thanks everyone for the comments. What we are going to do is buy the hood pins and if the new owner wants to put them on they can whenever they would like. I think that is the best option to go with. Thanks again for all the comments on our beautiful car, it is greatly appreciated. It is great to know how passionate people are over these great cars. Whoever buys this car will be very lucky in deed..

I made a kit with repro or original tooling twist locks

Item #HLKIT71-73

71-73 HOOD TWIST LOCK KIT, COMPLETE 32PC, OE TOOL

Complete 32 piece twist lock kit, everything you need to install. Twist locks, retainers and catches are all made using Ford's Original Tooling.

Price: $269.95

http://www.ohiomustang.com/store/order_page.asp?itemid=1861

Item #71HDLCKSET/R

71-73 HOOD LOCK KIT, COMPLETE 32 PIECES

Reproduction twist lock set up. Includes two hood locks, two radiator brackets, two original tooling catches, two original tooling retainers, AMK fastener kit F-1351 (12 pc kit), AMK fastener kit F-1631 (8 pc kit) and AMK fastener kit F-1630 (4 pc kit). Price: $219.95

Don

Nice kits Don. -Takes out a lot of the hassle of figuring what is needed.

Ray

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yup - quality parts as well. I bought the "topside" portion from Don, since I still had the brackets and mounting hardware. They work well and look awesome! ::thumb::

 

[Randy Fontenot]

I tried to contact this person about this 1971 429 For-sale and no response.

Any one has his telphone number so I can call about this unit.

Thanks;

Randy;

 

[Luke]

I tried to contact this person about this 1971 429 For-sale and no response.

Any one has his telphone number so I can call about this unit.

Thanks;

Randy;

Randy the seller is a member PM them

 

[Rozz]

There is a lot of things that are not correct for a true surviver. Like the decal on the air cleaner not to recap all the things already brought up earlier. I also think this car has been involved in a front end accident. Two many things don't match up. Not sure this will be a true numbers matching car.

On the bright side it is a j code. Price is high

 

[Mister 4x4]

Well, only the owner, previous owner(s), and prospective buyer will know for sure.

There are rules that govern the term "numbers matching." Basically, if the engine, rear axle, and transmission date codes match up with the VIN, it's a "numbers matching" car.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Number_matching

If the car suffered a front end collision, the "numbers matching" status is not threatened by the replacement of simple body parts.

Now, when you completely hack the front clip off and weld on a "new" one like I did... that is "technically" no longer "numbers matching."

I'm kinda tempted to close this thread, since there's really no need to rehash anything further... unless someone wants to report the status (does anybody know if it's been sold?).

 

[cudak888]

Everyone seems to be well aware of what the car is, its faults, and that the seller isn't claiming anything otherwise (and is also offering the twist-lock kit for the new owner to improve originality). Everything that needs or should be said has been said, wouldn't you say, Eric?

-Kurt

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yes. And as mentioned above, I'd like to keep it open only to find out if the car has actually been sold. There's no need to pick it apart any further.

 

[Boss1Ray]

Everyone seems to be well aware of what the car is, its faults, and that the seller isn't claiming anything otherwise (and is also offering the twist-lock kit for the new owner to improve originality). Everything that needs or should be said has been said, wouldn't you say, Eric?

-Kurt

Yes. And as mentioned above, I'd like to keep it open only to find out if the car has actually been sold. There's no need to pick it apart any further.

+1 x2

Ray

 

[FastE]

Here is our Marti Report for our car.

That is where I bought my Mach 1. I was in the Ford drag club there when this car was sold. So cool! Dealer is no longer there. I think it is a CVS pharmacy now. There were some bad cars come out of that dealership!!

 

[Abone312]

Car was bought by a dealer, North Freeway Hyundai on the north side of Houston on 45, they buy and sell a lot of collector cars. I just saw the car yesterday, very solid car, decent interior, needs a fresh paint job, but no rust to repair.

 

[will e]

If I had the room for another car I would be tempted.

 

[csgt428]

Yup - quality parts as well. I bought the "topside" portion from Don, since I still had the brackets and mounting hardware. They work well and look awesome! ::thumb::

I was about to order this kit after reading the thread this far (I WANT that car!) for my 72 "R" code Mach since the PO installed the ram air on my car but then....I remembered, (Tell me if I'm wrong) That my car never had ram air or even the option of having it....Probably not a good idea to modify a rare car.... I wonder If my car used the CJ style air cleaner originally?

Hmmm, well, after reading to the end it sounds like the car is gone and I should probably start a new thread if I want opinions as to putting hood locks on my 72 "R".....or returning it to an original air cleaner. OR... just leave it alone....yeh, that's it.

 

[c9zx]

Yup - quality parts as well. I bought the "topside" portion from Don, since I still had the brackets and mounting hardware. They work well and look awesome! ::thumb::

I was about to order this kit after reading the thread this far (I WANT that car!) for my 72 "R" code Mach since the PO installed the ram air on my car but then....I remembered, (Tell me if I'm wrong) That my car never had ram air or even the option of having it....Probably not a good idea to modify a rare car.... I wonder If my car used the CJ style air cleaner originally?

Hmmm, well, after reading to the end it sounds like the car is gone and I should probably start a new thread if I want opinions as to putting hood locks on my 72 "R".....or returning it to an original air cleaner. OR... just leave it alone....yeh, that's it.

I owned a 72 R code in 1977, completely stock. The Air cleaner assembly looked to be the same as the 72 Q code except for the decal said HO instead of CJ or 4V. I'll see if I can confirm that information. Chuck


I haven't been able to confirm the air cleaner information but this link may help. http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0901-1972-ford-mustang-mach-1/photo-gallery/#10

Chuck

 

[csgt428]

Yup - quality parts as well. I bought the "topside" portion from Don, since I still had the brackets and mounting hardware. They work well and look awesome! ::thumb::

I was about to order this kit after reading the thread this far (I WANT that car!) for my 72 "R" code Mach since the PO installed the ram air on my car but then....I remembered, (Tell me if I'm wrong) That my car never had ram air or even the option of having it....Probably not a good idea to modify a rare car.... I wonder If my car used the CJ style air cleaner originally?

Hmmm, well, after reading to the end it sounds like the car is gone and I should probably start a new thread if I want opinions as to putting hood locks on my 72 "R".....or returning it to an original air cleaner. OR... just leave it alone....yeh, that's it.

I owned a 72 R code in 1977, completely stock. The Air cleaner assembly looked to be the same as the 72 Q code except for the decal said HO instead of CJ or 4V. I'll see if I can confirm that information. Chuck


I haven't been able to confirm the air cleaner information but this link may help. http://www.mustangandfords.com/featured-vehicles/mump-0901-1972-ford-mustang-mach-1/photo-gallery/#10

Chuck

Thanks Chuck, I suspect you are correct about the CJ being the same. I have one on my 72 "Q" convertible. I think I'll just leave them the way they are on both the cars.

 

[Mike429cj]

I parked next to this car at the Nifty Fifties Cruise in a couple of Saturdays ago. The two 429 cars together got lots of attention from the lookers.

It is a solid unrestored car built in August 1970, one month before mine. I did look for evidence of the hood pin parts under the hood. It did not look like they were ever there. I did check the VIN and it was a J code car acording to dash and the door sticker.

Mine is on the right, the survivor is on the left with dealer tag.