1972 351C runs crap

[Odmark]

Actually, i just found the cause the "needles"...

This almost makes me cry because of the stupidity in some people.

So... someone has actually MIG welded the oil pan, almost certainly with the engine in the car from the looks inside of the oil pan.

So its in fact pieces of welding wire....

Laugh or cry? Both?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

well I'd suggest laughing. Tears are salt water and might rust your project

 

[Odmark]

Haha yes i guess so

Well, taking the pan to work tomorrow for a proper clean and sandblasting.

Cleaning the rest of the engine, block etc. With a hot water pressure washer at a friends place the day after.

Going to start ordering parts tomorrow.

Lets get this party started

 

[Odmark]

Well this is going to be more expensive than i though.

It seems i will both need to bore the block and machine the crank.. about 800 dollars right there, 780 dollars for the rebuild kit and about 350 dollars for other things needed like head bolts, oil pickup etc.

Adds up to about 1930 dollars.

Oh whell :-/

 

[timachone]

Bad news... :-/

But a freshly and ready to build-in Cleve is way more than that... In this case you know what you have done to the engine when it's refreshed - in other cases you often do not know what the PO did...

Keep on going ::thumb::

 

[Omie01]

Well don't feel too bad, I just went through all my receipts and total was around $12,000 for everything I did!!:huh:

 

[Odmark]

Timachone:

Yes that is true still a lot of money though... i just hope the cylinders are boreable, that the scratches are not to deep. 0.030 is about maximum in a cleveland if i understand right?

Omie01: oh man, im glad im not at those numbers

 

[barnett468]

some scratches are not a big problem if they are below the rings when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.

 

[Odmark]

some scratches are not a big problem if they are below the rings when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.

If you look at the picture i posted the scratches almost covers the entire lenght of the cylinder :-/

One is deeper than the others though.

Really hope its boreable

 

[barnett468]

some scratches are not a big problem if they are below the rings when the piston is at the bottom of the stroke.

If you look at the picture i posted the scratches almost covers the entire lenght of the cylinder :-/

One is deeper than the others though.

Really hope its boreable

yes, but the point is that if there are only some left below the rings after it is bored, it will be ok.

Also, you can have it offset bored if all the scratches are on the dame side.

the only way to really know what is going on with the cylinder thickness is to have it sonic checked.

 

[Odmark]

Oh okey, then i understand!

Well its just down to hoping then, the cylinders are also badly scratched on the opposite side of the wall so offset bore is not possible.

The big scratch in the middle is kind of deep, thats the one that worries me.

In a 0.030 bore you shave 0.015 inches of the walls (correct me if im wrong), so the scratches cant be deeper then 0.015"/0.381mm?

Thats like nothing...

I have not inspected the other cylinders so thourogly so they might be better, or worse...

 

[Odmark]

Good news! Cylinders are boreable at 0.30! Leaving the block and crank at the shop on tuesday.

Bad news is that it will set me back 900 dollars.

But is has to be done.

One step closer to doing donuts on my driveway ::thumb::

 

[Odmark]

Block and crank left at the machine shop today! Also he's putting in new cam bearings for me.

Bought oil pump driveshaft, oil pickup, cam bearings and a bunch of other stuff today.

Just waiting for him to measure the crank to know what bearings to order and then im set.

 

[Odmark]

Block is done, waiting for him do do the crank now. Hopefully he is done by friday.

Question since i never bored an engine before, when choosing head gaskets, i guess i need different ones for the now 4.030" bore.

Now the head gaskets are included in the rebuild kit, and i have to specify oversizes myself.

Looking at summit, they range from 4.060" to 4.185". And some of both say 4.060 and 4.100 says they are for 0.30" bore.

What should i use?


Another question. Will the 600cfm edelbrock thats on the car right now be enough with the new setup?

 

[barnett468]

do you have closed chamber heads?

are your pistons flat tops?

are you building a performance engine?

 

[Odmark]

do you have closed chamber heads?

are your pistons flat tops?

are you building a performance engine?

Open chamber 2V heads, flat top pistons.

Not really performance, mild street setup.

 

[Odmark]

Finally the block is bored and crank machined. 0.10 on the main and rod bearings. Ordered the rebuild kit today so hopefullu its here within a month!

 

[Odmark]

Hello! Ive been slow on the updates but now stuff is happening.

I got the rebuils kit and picking up the block in a couple of days.

Question! I never swapped pistons before, with the sealed power flat tops i got wrist pins as well.

Are these really nessecary when the piston pin is press fit in the rod?

Really hard to get the rod centered in the piston..

 

[barnett468]

im not sure what your question is but you do not need wrist pin clips with press in pins.

you can not in any way install press in pins with out heating the small end of the rod rod and this really needs to be done by a professional.

 

[Odmark]

Yes that was my question. I did heat the small end of the rod when i installed the piston, the only problem was i couldnt get the rod exactly centered in the piston if i were to use wrist pins (altough extremely close).

But i suspected they wasnt neccesary.