1972 Convertible resto mod

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Joined
Aug 27, 2021
Messages
218
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55
Location
Williamsburg Virginia area
My Car
1972 H code convert., 351C 2V, FMX, 9in., Ram air, Pwr Steering, Pwr Disc brakes, air-conditioning, 15" sport wheels, Ivy Glo w/white deluxe interior.
Seems like foresight was not my best suit when I started posting questions and while it would have been smarter to get a thread rolling here first, everything was just being piecemealed together out of little repair projects and didn't think I'd be doing enough to fill things in. Well, I was all wet on that one.

So, better late than never and I'll try to put some of the more project timeline related pics and messages here for easy viewing and following too.

These last couple weeks saw the motor and trans being pulled, additional items being removed and cleaning up all the dirt, grease and over spray 52 years and 3 owners have contributed to.

Last week just before motor pull
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Yesterday after first round of cleaning. The wiper assembly has been removed as well as anything else necessary for continued cleaning, possible media blasting and paint. Unfortunately, crawling up under the dash at this point, to remove the vacuum booster and brake assembly is a no-go. Did remove the newly reinstalled steering gearbox but that was more out of preservation of the nice, clean red cap that makes that stand apart from the rest.

Thought I did a fairly decent job of cleaning behind it but sure did miss allot more that I was happy with. If you're going to go this far, what's a couple extra minutes to make sure you're doing the detail correctly. The booster still isn't coming out. I've already had the argument and guilt-trip with myself, and it did no good. He (I) wasn't budging.
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As mentioned in another thread, about the '70 4V heads and the new Scorpion roller rockers and soon to purchase Comp Cams 215/215 hydraulic roller cam kit, I located this to solve the spread bore issue I was dealing with since I purchased a stock 4V manifold to go atop the engine. Thought the old Offy would be a good move since the car is Ram-air and I didn't wish to mess with adapters or modifying the air cleaner housing. Still a little clean up and I am thinking of returning it to the blue oiriginal paint that I'm seeing in the deeper recesses of the manifold.
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Edit: Also, forgot to ask about color of the cowl/firewall area on top. Has anyone ever made it the car color or am I confusing it with other years? As I stood there cleaning things, I found the original Ivy Glow under some of the black. That's asked understanding that the hood on the '71-'73 model goes all the way to the windshield so I'm not a complete maroon.
 
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So, not that there’s a loss of things to do with the car, or probably better said, I shouldn’t be looking for things. So, what did I decide since I’m down the compressor, and who’d a thunk that every hydraulic roller cam in the range I’m looking for is out of stock and can’t work on the motor, why not look at the engine compartment wiring. Yeah. That’s something that doesn’t need much attention or patience.
I was thinking of a way to avoid ripping it out back to the dash so, has anyone out there installed a connection point just on the outside of the firewall?
From my experience with my truck about 12 years ago, getting a new American Autowire system was the way to go but today, while the better decision, the price has reached the untouchable status with everything else in the works.
Plus, there’s a point where too much disassembling might be disastrous since I ain’t getting younger by the day.

Any thought's or suggestions would be appreciated.
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Edit: after removing all of the tape, while dirty and grimy, the wire remains very pliable for something installed in August of ‘71.
I’m going with the thought something was replaced since the main power supply looks new unless it was always bright yellow.
That said, I’ll look at a couple of the harnesses on NPD or other sites and add those where needed. An example would be the upgrade to HD led headlights. To eliminate the original bulb connection points. A new alternator harness wouldn’t be a bad idea either. Otherwise some tape will get it right. Actually considering splicing tape just given my experience with how superior it worked when we did garden model railroading.
 
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This kind of ties back to the edit question in my first post. I am also curious about inner fender wells. Having grown up in the north where Ziebart and one other was offered so it's usually difficult to tell. When I was cleaning the inner fender wells, I noticed some over-spray from the original and repaint colors but not much else given the light coat of rust.
What are some of the choices made by ya'll here? I understand the black around the aprons and suspension but has anyone actually color coordinated their inner fender?
 
Since I don't build to concours standards anymore, I just go with black. A little truck bed liner to dampen stones thrown off the tires, it desired. Looks good and easy to touch up when needed.
 
Since I don't build to concours standards anymore, I just go with black. A little truck bed liner to dampen stones thrown off the tires, it desired. Looks good and easy to touch up when needed.
Stones are a definite hazard in our area given the number of times Safelite has been out to fix our two daily drivers. Truck bed liner didn't think of that one. Since the fenders are off and when that time came, thought I'd shoot them separately so's not to need to mask off the aprons. Then again, shooting the wells off and masking might be the easiest solution and less traumatic since I'm bound to ding them during any attempt at installation.
Planned on using chassis epoxy paint on all the inner aprons and suspension parts. Maybe just change to bed liner for consistency?
 
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Stared the week by tracing some of the wires and their respective connections. Thought it was a good idea to label them now, so I didn't have a memory issue a few months from now when I get thing reassembled. Given the wires are in really good shape, not going to mess with replacing them.
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This is about as bad as it gets for me with rust deterioration, at least in the engine compartment. Given I really don't wish to go down the heater core A/C condenser removal route, planning on hitting this area with some form of rust reformer and maybe some form of putty filler before finishing.

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It's been mostly wire-type brushes in the effort so far. Aside from media blasting the parts prepping for paint, I haven't figured a way to section things off so I ca media blast in the garage. A couple ideas have popped into the process but it's going to be more involved than I'd like. I thought about purchasing one of those portable spray booths from online and only needing to ten the opening. It's more about getting on a ladder that is keeping me from wrapping the whole garage. Given the stats out there, some things we should avoid doing after a certain age and climbing 10ft up a ladder and then trying to hang PVC and the supports is.
 
First off, an update on yesterday, really didn't get anything accomplished. Days like this are not bad to have once in a while. Started running errands and time got away. However, I was not completely idle with the car. When I set out, I threw the crank, rods and pistons into the back of the Subie and headed off to the Engine builder.

I was talked into polishing the crank. It was explained I wouldn't be disappointed and understanding what it can do, I'll agree. I also have to say the price was right too. As far as the rods and pistons go, Jimmy was going to check the rods and caps as well as clean the tar off the pistons. Took extra care of etching the number of the cylinder on the side of the piston next to the pin. Nothing that comes in contact with the wall for sure but since the motor was given a .030 over fairly recently, there's no need to change pistons. Rings may be a different story, and I know where those will come from right off the bat, D.S.S. That would also be my source for pistons to but...not needed yet.

After checking tolerances on the block like taper, decided not to do anything to the block other than a bead gaze breaker. The one unknown for that is what bore. The original bore is 4". My readings have been right in the area of the 0.030 so I'm guessing that the tool needs to be right there as well. A couple sources for that and still looking, so the engine just sits, with an oscillating fan to deter any rust as well as keeping things clean with a light fil of oil being reapplied as needed to all rotating assembly and cylinder surfaces. no rush since we're dealing with valve train issues now.

As far as the engine sitting, some of what I explained above, specifically work on the block, may change and if I get more frustrated trying to find a cam (yesterday and the start of today has been nothing but an exercise in futility or a complete waste of time and the same as the other 4 days trying. There was a glimmer of hope, if I wanted to pay extra. Of course, there's always an option if you spend more money to get less. One major mfgr. who's out of both cams and trays said they would custom grind a blank. All I could hear from that side of the call was cha ching! So, we wait. Ultra-committed to going hydraulic roller so let's hope I can still drive a car by the time a cam appears. That's why I say

Finally, a couple changes lately have made me look at things a bit different so, I'd like to add that I feel very fortunate to have had this car fall into my lap. Granted it's not perfect otherwise I wouldn't have gotten it for the price I did. However, some might say that I sound like I'm complaining a whole lot about things. Well? I'm really, I mean, seriously and sincerely not. I have a sarcastic streak the size of the Grand Canyon (of the East if anyone can guess what that is) and while I do say serious things once in a while, it's all nothing more than a spot-check on myself.

I've seen some of these cars start out in horrendous condition and get turned into masterpieces, pure artwork, by many of you here. I can only hope to get this project to turn out half as good. It's sort of a redemption for me and what life was like when I had my '66, 45 years dumber and full of unfocused energy. Thanks for following, and for the comments along the way in many other posts. Nothing has gone unlearned even for an old dog.

Today will be spent bouncing between media blasting and a couple light tasks of clean up. Even with blasting outside, that fine coal slag grit gets everywhere, door closed, open up, down or no wind. Really nasty stuff if ya ask me. It's also important to figure out this moisture issue being experienced with the new compressor. It sure was a heluva lot of money for something like this to malfunction. Tech support has me doing a couple dozen things to give them an answer, but the ironic thing is, it's the same answers and problems I'm seeing others are dealing with, so they already know what needs to be done. Just wish they do it and I could focus on other issues. That is a complaint so for now? Time to make the donuts!
 
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