1972 Convertible resto mod

[California 72]

The day just disappeared for work on the car garage, but it was productive for the car none the less. Package from CandyRcode with the replacement strut rods and a timing chain cover/water pump backing plate arrived.

Along with that, the AMK package arrived. I started cleaning all the fasteners and after the first 30 ricochets out of the housing of the wire wheel on the bench grinder and the fact that some reduced in both thread and wrench/socket size because of the rust... It was really seeing a couple of the gang posting their completed work made me realize the new product would really look much better and was the overall correct choice to make. To be very honest, the pics above from tpj71mach sold me on the new fasteners.

The one thing for certain with the decision to purchase the Master kit over the piece by piece was made very simple. Even though I ended up with some duplicates as far as what comes with the new parts, it was much less expensive to just purchase the master kits. I'm going to also go with th fact they are most likely a better grade of fastener than some of those that are with the parts.

Unfortunately, didn't get things wrapped up as planned. Ran out of steam about 2 hours after dinner but at least there's now a somewhat cleaner path around the front and passenger side of the car.

 

[California 72]

Been out for a while with other projects. A neighbor installed a pool and they had the resulting dirt from the hole delivered to us since we were in need of some. By some I mean a massive sum, like 300 yards and now we’re a third of the way there. It rained thrice this week, ending a 6 week drought but that also made the soil, which hadn’t been compacted yet, unworkable.
Anyhow, enough of that and back to the car.
The crank is ready after being polished, we did learn that it was 0.010 undersized but nothing too severe to overcome.
The block is at the shop and work progresses there too. Going with the original connecting rods and decided on free floaters for the piston pins.
As far as bore goes, whatever the clean up needs it will be at its bare minimum but the same for all 8.
I’m so very lucky that I’ve been offered the chance to have the ne pistons forged at that size.

So the parts paint process starts. These were just touched up today, waiting the commensurate 48 hours between the last coat and next since my day ended with 4 total for the start. These should be cured enough Sunday I can wrap and store.

The new ClassicTube stainless fuel and brake lines arrived today. Still contemplating on the vapor return line but will probably replace it as well.
Heads will be ready in another week or two with new bronze guides and some very nice seat work too. I have the new valves and hopefully soon I can get the remaining parts ordered to start reassembly of the motor.
It’s gotten a bit chilly here so trying to figure out how to use a spare air handler we replaced because the tonnage was grossly undersized. Planning on just using the heat coils to do temperature control for paint.
Otherwise, we keep moving forward. Lots of bare metal to use after blast in as well as primers. I am planning more media blasting but need a full couple days with no interruptions. Unfortunately that will be after thanksgiving so, more updates to follow as they happen.

 

[California 72]

I'm sorry to hear about your cam and lifters. Maybe it is the universe telling you a new cam is the right way to go.

As far as I could determine when I was doing my engine compartment, the braces are supposed to be slop gray, I bought a couple aerosol cans from NPD to spray mine, they offer a lighter and darker slop gray. The upper shocks mounts were originally coated steel. I painted mine with Eastwood 2X Detail gray, to replicate this and seal them up. They also sell the detail gray in non-activator spray as well, probably not as durable of a finish, but you don't have to use the whole can the same day you activate it or have it cure in the can.. The outer shock braces were also slop gray as well as some of the headlight and hood latch support brackets. I tried to find out what should be what color before I actually laid down any paint. I chose these colors because they seemed to me to be the consensus on what the "correct" colors were. My car had been rattle canned all semi-gloss black and I media blasted everything to bare metal and then coated with black epoxy primer, so didn't have any indication what color the parts were originally…

tpj71mach,
Getting ready to start the painting, how many weeks late now?
Anyhow, if I could ask a huge favor and post or pm me the color changes for each part up front. I’m undecided about repainting the springs since a warranty is involved but I’ll contact them to ask. Really liked the difference and my CEO and COO of designs told me I needed to do the changes you made.
The big question is, are the fender skirts and associated parts inside and under the motor black? I’ve got a ton of semi gloss rollbar and chassis so, that includes the other parts because like you, mine was redone with black on everything.
Greatly appreciate the effort and just remember, copying something is the greatest form of compliment. Yet I still have one or two changes I haven’t been told about yet.
Thanks.

 

[California 72]

Forgot to mention, the Eastwood After Blast is some rather intense stuff! I did allow the parts to sit overnight and they look perfect for paint. Didn’t apply paints last night because I ran out of time, wanted to confirm a couple colors with tpj71mach and even using compressed air, the crevices and seams were damp and thought better to wait. That extra time looks like it will make a difference.

Below are the completed spindles and calipers.

 

[California 72]

We have primer on the first clean chassis parts. Now to decipher between the two greys, chassis black and that beautiful, classic Ford blue. There will also be some aluminum thrown in if I do decide to not paint the intake blue. I found some stuff from Seymour Paints that would allow for the metal look. I figure I'll hit some things with it and for the higher temp items, like the engine, they'll also be coated with a high temp 2K clear. Really like the way the aluminum sets against the blue motor. Now to search for the style finned aluminum valve covers. Plus, I’m trying to figure out the process to cure the exhaust manifolds off or on the vehicle.

Although, there is one puzzling fact and it's the date stamps on the hood hinges. They are a year ending in 3 and, since my car is a confirmed 1972 model, either they were made in 1963 or replaced. This actually plays into something I was told about the car and ties into the grill support being changed as well as some other changes made between the first and second attempt at auction while the car was still in California.

By the way, the springs on the hinges, they are the new windings from NPD for the heavier NACA Hood. They really did make a difference for the whole week they were installed before the hood ended up sitting on the vert top. Before anyone gasps at the fact it's sitting up there, it's a calculated move in the manner I used 2x4's and 2x6's to carry the hoof weight on the vert frame and that I need an excuse to replace the canvas from black back to white, when the time comes of course.

 

[California 72]

It's been a constant process of Eastwood after blast and additional cleaning. Just when I believe I have all the paint cleaned off, the after blast pulls more out of the metal. There's a definite sign of paint since the product foams and actually performs something or what I liken to "raising the grain" on woodworking projects. There are some parts, even after 6-7 attempts to clean, it just won't so, at the risk of changing the metals gauge by over cleaning, I've decided to just change up the prep process for primer. Seems to be working, so far since I just laid down paint on the first couple of pieces.

I've chosen the Seymour paint "Blast" products since they contain actual metal dust for aluminum, steel (more specifically stainless steel) and iron grey. The disc brake shields, shown earlier, were the first with the iron grey and I may be recoating with the steel. So far, the hood lock brackets, and upper shock mounts have had 3 coats and looking good. If any additional coats are needed, Seymour is vague, really nonexistent on any directions of durations so I figure if I stick with the 48-hour rule of most other paints, I should be safe. The "orange peel" or crackling that happens if you get too impatient is a bear to remove. The only thing now is to figure out what prep is needed to cover the arts in 2K satin clear coat.

There was discussion about being able to if things were prepped properly and the research begins. That is, unless someone here has experience in using the 2k products over normal rattle can products and would like to share. I'm leaning towards the thinking it's just a very light scuff with 400 grit or even 0000 steel wool.

Maybe some pics this weekend as I finish coating, just to keep up. Once everything has cured properly, it's getting wrapped in packing and boxed for safe keeping. I have some media blasting to perform yet and don't want to coat the nice clean and freshly painted parts in media and blast dust.

Happy Thanksgiving all!

 

[Sheriff41]

It's been a constant process of Eastwood after blast and additional cleaning. Just when I believe I have all the paint cleaned off, the after blast pulls more out of the metal. There's a definite sign of paint since the product foams and actually performs something or what I liken to "raising the grain" on woodworking projects. There are some parts, even after 6-7 attempts to clean, it just won't so, at the risk of changing the metals gauge by over cleaning, I've decided to just change up the prep process for primer. Seems to be working, so far since I just laid down paint on the first couple of pieces.

I've chosen the Seymour paint "Blast" products since they contain actual metal dust for aluminum, steel (more specifically stainless steel) and iron grey. The disc brake shields, shown earlier, were the first with the iron grey and I may be recoating with the steel. So far, the hood lock brackets, and upper shock mounts have had 3 coats and looking good. If any additional coats are needed, Seymour is vague, really nonexistent on any directions of durations so I figure if I stick with the 48-hour rule of most other paints, I should be safe. The "orange peel" or crackling that happens if you get too impatient is a bear to remove. The only thing now is to figure out what prep is needed to cover the arts in 2K satin clear coat.

There was discussion about being able to if things were prepped properly and the research begins. That is, unless someone here has experience in using the 2k products over normal rattle can products and would like to share. I'm leaning towards the thinking it's just a very light scuff with 400 grit or even 0000 steel wool.

Maybe some pics this weekend as I finish coating, just to keep up. Once everything has cured properly, it's getting wrapped in packing and boxed for safe keeping. I have some media blasting to perform yet and don't want to coat the nice clean and freshly painted parts in media and blast dust.

Happy Thanksgiving all!

And a happy Thanksgiving to you, also! I've used the Seymour products on some small parts, and it seems to be holding up well for me.

 

[California 72]

Had asked this question in a conversation so posting it doesn't imply impatience, just boredom and trying to get more exposure.

The gasket in the pic below, does anyone know where it can be purchased?


I've been to the normal sites, NPD, CJPP, Year One, with no luck, on the exact fit. CJPP had the ends gaskets for the heater core with A/C but it doesn't resemble this shape one bit. Basically, the one I received is just two rectangular pieces of foam that fit around the ends of the core and the only two cut-outs for the hose connections are the horizontal.
Thanks!

 

[Sheriff41]

Since you have the original one, go by a piece of thick, dense foam or something like https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html and fashion your own seal.

 

[California 72]

Now why couldn’t I think of that. Doohhh!!!!
It’s way too easy to fall into the replace it trap sometimes.

 

[California 72]

Difficult to see everything clearly because of the limited space to hang things but, here are the parts painted so far.
The steel and iron tints are what the two tones represent.


The new stainless tranny cooler lines arrived today from Classic Tube. Definitely a premature purchase but the opportunity presented itself and decided there’s too much of a chance they’d be out of stock when they do become relevant.
Still looking for a place to fix the FMX but I think it’ll be there when I get more serious about it.
One thing for sure, the garage needs a bit of detailing to get reset for more work.
I’ll probably take the weekend to address it and give everything a good chance to cure properly. Not going anywhere fast. Plus I’m visiting family in Denver. Milestone birthdays for both my folks but time is tight so it’s in and out in two nights. Just enough time to take everyone to dinner.

 

[California 72]

More parts have been painted, alternating between the three colors identified by some excellent assistance here. I've sorted out other components and even started to delve into boxes of stashed options to assess their condition. It's a significant amount of work. Observing the progress of my project and considering the state of completion for those who have been following along, I've reached that juncture where one wonders if the car will ever look or function correctly again. It requires time and patience, and although my patience has greatly improved, time remains an uncertain factor. One thing is for certain, the projects I'm watching here are definitely setting the bar high.

Today, I brought the original rotors and drums to the machine shop and discovered they're beyond repair. According to the measurements, they were already out of specification before the last brake service, but the previous owner had them machined regardless. This likely explains the unusually deep brake pedal, even after installing a new booster and master cylinder. It's also worth noting that the rear adjusters were nearly fully extended when I removed the drums. Fortunately, I can detach the hubs from the front discs, which are interchangeable, as the staff at the NAPA Machine shop indicated.

Currently, the engine block is awaiting a thorough cleaning, magnaflux testing, and resurfacing. I've decided to proceed with having the cylinders honed or bored, removing as little material as possible, starting from a 0.030-inch overbore. The connecting rods are being cleaned, and the old pistons removed. They will be replaced with new floating pin pistons and rings from D.S.S.

The heads and crankshaft have returned home, and the work done on them is commendable. I've learned that the crankshaft is 0.10 inches undersized, with the bearing journals having been resurfaced. Ultimately, we concluded that it was cost-effective to polish and inspect the crankshaft and to use undersized bearings, which is significantly cheaper than replacing the crankshaft. The next step is to determine if the main bearings were line-bored; if so, it will necessitate a change in plans. I've never encountered an engine with both the crankshaft and block mains machined, nor am I sure if it's feasible, but my inner George Costanza has been peeking in lately so, anything is possible.

 

[California 72]

Only pics right now. I’ll try and get back in a bit to edit this into a proper post. Little did I know it was going to be a couple days to post comments. Apologies for the delay.


So, we have the crank. Bolted securely to the flywheel to aid me in finding new and ingenious ways of knocking it over. I swear with the week I've had; it could be bolted to the floor, and I'd get it done.


The heads. What can I say. Sure wish I had the grand plus to sink into them and done the process better. After securing them in oil and shipping wrap, I noticed they could have been cleaned up a bit better or maybe the solution in the tank was a little weak. In the end it's all good, I've done some work on heads in the past and still have the rotary file bits stashed somewhere. The nice used tools you get when your father was an aircraft mechanic.


Had to do a bit more thorough clean up Saturday so I thought I would update the post with the reason for me saying; I've reached that point of panic where it looks like I'll never get this think reassembled and running. I also needed to dig the next parts to be painted out. There are a few that remain in the trunk too but those will have to wait.



Since finding a decent looking, not-cracked-and-then-poorly repaired or astronomically priced set of original finned aluminum 351C valve covers, tried the Alumi-Blast from Seymour Paints. Also painted the wiper stops with it too. By the way, my comment at the beginning deserves a caveat so, I really don't mean that in an insulting manner but, come on people. I'm sure there's one born every minute but objectively look at things for a perspective please. I mean, pitted aluminum is one thing and can be easily repaired but the cracks are an entirely different animal.
That Old Ford Blue is most awesome looking too. Probably the greatest shade of blue ever! Especially getting a bit antsy for when I can finally get it laid down on the motor.
I'm also hoping to get the dimensions on the drippers that are attached to the underside of the cover. Some, if not most would ask why so, why? Just one of those extra special details that when I go to the great Mustang meet in the sky, the DD would have an easier time selling after explaining how much extra care went into the project.


Finished coats on almost all the assembly parts or that's what I thought when I posted the pics. After further inspection, there are a couple areas of lighter coats than acceptable on a couple parts so once those are toughed up, then I can say finished with the finish coats. They'll hang there for at a minimum of 2 weeks for as thorough a cure as possible. A) don't want it chipping or scratching in any manner and B) everything is being individually wrapped and put in a box for storage until reassembly.

By the way, this paint is really far superior with what I remember rattle can paint being. The way it lays down is impressive and, in a way, rightfully so. Some of this stuff is $20 or $30 a can.

So, for now, it's a slow process of heating the garage with a ceramic space heater and a fan. I had a more glorious idea of installing a 3ton air handler with a heat coil for the garage but it's more involved than just hooking it up and firing it up.

It's the unit we were forced to replace in our first year because it was too small on tonnage. Currently, we're at 4.5tons as to the why. Anyhow, we have a complete system for sale and once it's used for this, well, not sure we'll sell it. Then again, it hasn't sold in almost 3 years so... Then there's the cost of installing it. I can do everything but hang it because, that's the only area we have space, at the ceiling.