1973 Mach build -My way

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Looks great! Did you figure out what you really got with the engine or discover any additional info?
I did learn a tidbit.

A new guy at work told me that he used to have a 1995 Cobra R engine that was put in a Thunderbird. Jeff bought the car and all from Jeremy around 1999 but has since given it to one of his children. By the time Jeff got the car it already had an Edelbrock intake on it but the other parts were there.

Jeremy used to work at Rousch.

It seems that more than one of the seven test engines that Ford gave Rousch failed to get back to Ford like Rousch claims.

My Ford V.P. friend say things come up missing at Ford all the time.

 
Nice Work! I'm totally right there with ya regarding that intermediate panel and the area around the torque box. Mine needed that same repair, and what the intermediate panel (no longer produced) didn't cover, I had to fabricate as well.

Lookin' good - can't wait to see more! :bravo:

 
The floor pan is in but I must say that the reproduction part fits extremely poorly. So much that I decided to use the rusted original.

The best play at this point seemed to be to patch the rusted section with the replacement. I think it turned out fairly well.

20150721_191410.jpg20150721_203951.jpg

Assembled:

20150722_193156.jpg

 
Hi yes it's Not allways the bedst parts... But you Now what you are doing so keep on the good work:coolphotos: They don't care about if they are okay parts. When i got My parts to My Mach 1 there was a lot off the same isius off panel's that i needed to do some Work on as well:mad: They are allso Not as strong as the original's are:chin: But good Luck whit your Work sir:bravo: Regars Lars DK73

 
I didn't do anything all summer but now it's winter and I've been laid off.

I finished cutting out both wheel wells to accommodate 30 inch tires.

20151206_165540.jpg

I even removed about an inch and a half of rocker to get the room.

20151206_161521.jpg

It's not tubbed but I excised the outer curve of the outer wheel well.

I welded 3/16" round stock to the cut edge then I connected the apex of the well to the round stock with some 18 ga. steel.

I also had to replace the part of the quarter between the well and the B pillar on both sides.

20151207_125017.jpg

 
In this picture you can see how far my ten inch wheels stick out (no tire yet). I'm considering shortening the axle and flares. A four link kit with adjustable coil over shocks will allow me to tune the height and ride.

20160109_173008.jpg

The reconditioned wheels are a bit dirty but will look delicious with rubber mounted.

20160109_172922.jpg

Sorry, these pictures have been inappropriately rotated. I don't see how to correct it.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I haven't updated this build in a year but there has been progress. I've been frequenting the Facebook page with some updates.

I have installed a free floating three link axle with watts link from Street or Track.

The truck and tail panel steel has been replaced.

20161118_195210.jpg

20161118_145947.jpg

20161118_151813.jpg

The three link requires a hole to be cut. Street or Track's 1970 pan doesn't fit so I fabricated my own.

20161229_195954.jpg

20170124_204808.jpg

For those that have tried to fit big tires, you know that the front of the inner wheel wells are shallow on the classic Mustangs. I learned of a modification of cutting it open and welding in a panel to maximize the space without tubbing.

20170105_184125.jpg

20170105_194619.jpg

20170110_174601.jpg

20170127_185901.jpg

 
I bought some additional braces for the roof having read a post here about how soft the roof can be, particularly when sanding out filler.

Note that the factory braces only fit well in it's original location because the roof is more narrow to the front and wider in the back.

The rear had to be shaped some. The front actually fit perfectly when I tacked it in above the roof rail instead of under. It's the best fitting of the three. I now have a most rigid roof.

20170124_190012.jpg

Cribbing is required to get them tight. I learned the hard way. I had to cut it out and re-weld.

20170123_211254.jpg

 
Last edited by a moderator:
My hinges were in good shape but the bushings needed replacement. instead of the regular cheap and simple rebuild kit I spent the big bucks, $72, on "Mustang Steve's" upgrade kit that is particularly good for those hinges with rounded out holes.

The kit is robust with much bigger bushings that are enclosed and lubricated with a zert. I will never have any loose issues.







 
Very nice. I have heard a lot of good comments about this kit. Luckily for me, my doors don't sag, YET! Looking forward to more progress reports on your car.

 
Back
Top