2 new questions.......sorry

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Nov 13, 2012
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My Car
1973 Mustang Mach 1
I bought the Quicktime bellhousing with my TKO kit. It says to bolt these strange brackets inside the bell for the clutch fork, but it seems to me that would be for a mechanical clutch fork? The way they bracket is it seems to me it would only interfere with the vable style fork..?

Second...

Every article I have read says the driveshaft needs to be shortened one inch. to 51", as stock is 52"...My driveshaft is 51" on the nose. Leads me to beleive the FMX I have in mine is longer than a C4/C6, whatever came stock on 73 Mach 1 with a 2V Cleveland.

 
I cannot address your first question but as to the second...

My references shows the 351C with automatic and 28 spline rear end for '73 "should" have a drive shaft length of either 50 13/16" or 50 21/32".

The difference depends upon which rear joint (3 15/32" versus 3 5/8") was installed.

The 50 13/16" (2 3/4" diameter) long shaft has the 3 15/32" joint

The 50 21/32" (3' diameter) long shaft has the 3 21/32" joint

A '73 Mustang with a cast iron case automatic with 31 spline rear would have had a 51 3/32" (2 3/4" diameter) long shaft.

Hope this helps and not further confuse the issue.

BT

 
I have a cast iron tranny and 31 spline rear end, so that makes sense and 51 on the nose is pretty close to what you listed. I dont get why the correct conversion driveshaft is listed as the same length as mine, but stock is listed as 52". The options you listed are all smaller than 52". I'll know soon, I was hoping I was gonna get away with not getting my driveshaft cut[/align]

 
The brackets are for if I used a mechanical setup.

Found a guy with a 50.75 driveshaft in town for $60, that will be perfect for me.

Should have the tranny dryfit and the hole cut for the shifter tonight. Do auto cars have no hole at all? I have not removed the B&M Megashifter from up top yet, I am wondering if the guy put some sheet metal over the old hole?

 
All Mustangs have holes cut for the shifter in the transmission tunnel. Take a close look at your car to see what has been done to cover it up if at all. The B&M Megashifter must go through a hole in the floor.

 
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He put metal over the hole, and bolted the megashifter to the metal. He drilled a hole to route the cable down to tranny. This guy was a piece of work. I cut a small hole in the 'new' metal for the shifter to dry fit, and will enlarge it so it fits correctly.

 
There is a fine line between learning on the fly, and wanting to burn your garage down!

Tried several times to get the tranny seated into the bell/clutch/pilot bushing. I can get to to about 1/4 inch and it stops dead. I used the plastic alignment tool, so I am wondering if I am off just enough to be snubbing up against the bushing instead of seating?

 
The plastic tool will let you down. Can you hook up the clutch and depress it with the trans where it is now? That will often let you move the trans in the last 1/4". If you try this, put at least one bolt in so that the trans cannot move back when you step on the clutch. DO NOT use the trans bolts to try to draw the trans into place.

 
If a second person can move the fork with a pry bar you may be able to free it up the disc enough to move it. Another possibility would be to use a ratchet strap to pull the fork back to a fixed point. The line of action should be close to that of the normal action of the fork so that is not being pulled out of place. In either case safety first. It would be easy to get hurt using my "Bubba" methods if things slip.

Scars do add to the impact of stories about one's car though.

 
Your suggestion tempted me....but I didnt want to tempt fait..

I did as suggested above, I realinged the clutch and held up the alignment too until bolts were snug. Was still a biotch but its in.

Driveshaft shortened, pedal and cable left.

tranny.jpg

 
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