3514v Can anyone suggest an engine rebuilder near Waterbury CT

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Joined
Feb 17, 2022
Messages
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My Car
1971 Mach 1
Hi,
I have removed my 351c and was hoping to rebuild engine and heads. Also thinking of going to Stainless Steel Valves and inserts. Could anyone offer there Thoughts on that idea.

Thanks,
Monty
 
I used to live in Ct & went through various machine shops, that put my projects aside, only to rush them through at their convenience. I ended up going with a rural shop, Roger Pease in Summers CT. He's a (Chevy) dirt trackers machinist, that I felt was very precise. I now live in Tulsa Ok, where machinists are lazy and won't rebush your stock rods for full floating pins. (Leaving me to go with H beams) If you plan on using a cam that uses 5:15 lift or more you'll have to eliminate your 5/16" studs. Machinists here do not want to machine the top surfaces of canted valves motors, setting up for different angles. You have to go in and talk to them. I did like the Ferrea stainless valves for my 4V. No reason to go aluminum w/the heads, nothing will out flow a 4v head.
 
I used to live in Ct & went through various machine shops, that put my projects aside, only to rush them through at their convenience. I ended up going with a rural shop, Roger Pease in Summers CT. He's a (Chevy) dirt trackers machinist, that I felt was very precise. I now live in Tulsa Ok, where machinists are lazy and won't rebush your stock rods for full floating pins. (Leaving me to go with H beams) If you plan on using a cam that uses 5:15 lift or more you'll have to eliminate your 5/16" studs. Machinists here do not want to machine the top surfaces of canted valves motors, setting up for different angles. You have to go in and talk to them. I did like the Ferrea stainless valves for my 4V. No reason to go aluminum w/the heads, nothing will out flow a 4v head.
Thanks for the reply Paul. The only reason I was thinking Stainless steel valves and stainless seats into the standard 4v heads. Set I have are D0AE-N Oct/1970 (Closed Chamber) Block cleaned up 0.20 Thou over Standard. 4ma Crank cleaned up nice.
Not sure what to do with cam to go Hydraulic or solid. The car is really a weekend driver not a racer, just a cruiser. I had a look on Alex Parts website for the one piece valves, and s/s seats. Looks like they have some good stuff on the site. Just trying to decide which way to go. One mechanic told me brass guides with stainless valves, another said stainless guides.
Just deciding pistons and cam. Thanks
 
Talk to Bill @ Carlquist http://carlquistengines.com/

Single groove one piece stainless valves are a given with a 351C-4V. The two piece valves Ford used are a known failure point, especially at 50+ years.
Hi, Thanks for the info. I emailed Bill and received a reply with some good ideas etc. His hourly rate $120 p/hour but I believe he does very good work. Thanks.
 
Thanks for the reply Paul. The only reason I was thinking Stainless steel valves and stainless seats into the standard 4v heads. Set I have are D0AE-N Oct/1970 (Closed Chamber) Block cleaned up 0.20 Thou over Standard. 4ma Crank cleaned up nice.
Not sure what to do with cam to go Hydraulic or solid. The car is really a weekend driver not a racer, just a cruiser. I had a look on Alex Parts website for the one piece valves, and s/s seats. Looks like they have some good stuff on the site. Just trying to decide which way to go. One mechanic told me brass guides with stainless valves, another said stainless guides.
Just deciding pistons and cam. Thanks
I don't care what anybody else says. I always use hydraulic lifters for street cars. If your guides are worn, don't let them talk you into knurling. It's practically a waste of time knurling them, as it's a temporary fix. There's good quality bronze replacements from different mfg's. Match your cam to the RPM range of your intake. Also pay attention to whether a different torque converter & gear are required.
 
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