351c identifying valve train

[gosse_84]

My dad gave me stock 4v heads that he said were done like a cj..... anyway to tell? Or am i taking his word for it lol. He is very knowledgeable about mustangs and i believe him. But id like to find out for myself for the sake of learning. Thanks any info well appreciated.

 

[Don C]

You'll need to start by getting the casting numbers from the heads, they'll be in this format, D1ZE-DA, then go here and download the file and look up the casting number to see what they are:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-casting-numbers-and-engine-codes

 

[MeZapU]

It depends on the casting numbers, what parts are used and machine work has been done. Most often the heads are machined for adjustable rocker arms and pushrod guide plates and people call them CJ or Boss heads.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

original valves have a ford emblem on the underside and multigroove retainers

 

[gosse_84]

original valves have a ford emblem on the underside and multigroove retainers

Ok thanks guys. D1ae ga is.got on the heads.

 

[gosse_84]

You'll need to start by getting the casting numbers from the heads, they'll be in this format, D1ZE-DA, then go here and download the file and look up the casting number to see what they are:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-casting-numbers-and-engine-codes

D1ae ga is on the heads so regular 4v heads according to the chart. So how do i tell if anything is been done with em?

 

[mustang7173]

gosse_84,

I would say these are the top factory 351C-4V cylinder heads due to their 62.8 cc and closed combustion chamber. What, 11:1 compression!! The 1970 351C-4V was rated @ 300 hp! We all know that Ford under rated them due to insurance Plus one with Jeff73Mach1. The another question is, Did your dad have the harden seats installed due to the unleaded fuel?

I would be definitely be a happy jumpy Dog to receive these cylinder heads. If you plan on using them, then definitely get them magnafluxed to check for internal cracks and look to see if they have the hardened valve seats. Like Jeff73Mach1 stated, if the have the Ford emblem on the valve, then they may be pure stock when they were sent out to slay G.M. and Mo pars!

You have a set of gold in your hands!

mustang7173 :bravo:

 

[gosse_84]

gosse_84,

I would say these are the top factory 351C-4V cylinder heads due to their 62.8 cc and closed combustion chamber. The 1970 351C-4V was rated @ 330 hp! Plus one with Jeff73Mach1. The another question is, Did your dad have the harden seats installed due to the unleaded fuel?

I would be definitely be a happy jumpy Dog to receive these cylinder heads. If you plan on using them, then definitely get them magnafluxed to check for internal cracks and look to see if they have the hardened valve seats. Like Jeff73Mach1 stated, if the have the Ford emblem on the valve, then they may be pure stock when they were sent out to slay G.M. and Mo pars!

You have a set of gold in your hands!

mustang7173 :bravo:

Thats what i want to hear lol thanks and they do look like they have the ford symbol on the valve.... but dad said they were brought to a machine shop and cleaned up so im sure he would of had them looked over for cracks. So i guess the next step is too get the stainless steel valves hey... any you suggest for this head?

 

[mustang7173]

gosse_84,

I would go back to your father to see if he remembers what the machine shop did do. By the way, why are the heads separated for the engine?

Please check out this book. It has a lot of great information on the 351C engines.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-to-rebuild-the-small-block-ford-george-reid/1009303937?ean=9781932494891

mustang7173

 

[gosse_84]

gosse_84,

I would go back to your father to see if he remembers what the machine shop did do. By the way, why are the heads separated for the engine?

Please check out this book. It has a lot of great information on the 351C engines.

http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/how-to-rebuild-the-small-block-ford-george-reid/1009303937?ean=9781932494891

mustang7173

Ok so looking at the heads today and they dont look like they were machined for adjustable guide plates.....but im not sure really lol heres a pic maybe you can help me out further? Be a great help.

 

[cudak888]

Intake valve appears original. Exhaust does not look like a factory Ford valve.

These are a set of original valves from a 1972 D1ZE-DA head, by comparison - note the multiple grooves at the top for the locks:

Like an idiot, I apparently photographed the bottom of the intake valves and NOT the exhaust valves when I took these pictures. However, the factory exhaust valves had a similar depression to the center as with the exhaust valve, but without the Ford logo. They didn't have a small dimple in the center, nor the smooth finish of your exhaust valve.

Note that you can buy new replacements with the same multiple grooves on them, so I wouldn't rely on that as an indication of originality.

-Kurt

 

[gosse_84]

Intake valve appears original. Exhaust does not look like a factory Ford valve.

These are a set of original valves from a 1972 D1ZE-DA head, by comparison - note the multiple grooves at the top for the locks:

Like an idiot, I apparently photographed the bottom of the intake valves and NOT the exhaust valves when I took these pictures. However, the factory exhaust valves had a similar depression to the center as with the exhaust valve, but without the Ford logo. They didn't have a small dimple in the center, nor the smooth finish of your exhaust valve.

Note that you can buy new replacements with the same multiple grooves on them, so I wouldn't rely on that as an indication of originality.

-Kurt

Thanks and they hard to take out and look? Im pretty good with a wrench. But is there any special tools to get them out? Looks.like the spring may have to be decompressed. ...

 

[MotoArts]

Yep, compress the spring, remove locks from the stem/retainer and slowly relieve the spring.

Valve will fall out.

And, you have the right idea... new or not, deposit the Ford valves and locks in the nearest metal recycle bin. The failures are well documented.

 

[gosse_84]

Yep, compress the spring, remove locks from the stem/retainer and slowly relieve the spring.

Valve will fall out.

And, you have the right idea... new or not, deposit the Ford valves and locks in the nearest metal recycle bin. The failures are well documented.

Ok thanks!!