351c q code rebuild

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burbygurby

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Jul 4, 2024
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Location
lexington, kentucky
My Car
'73 mach 1 q-code
I am currently rebuilding a 1973 mach 1 q code and have most of the original parts for the engine but was looking for kits with the necessary parts to complete it and I came across this website (https://northernautoparts.com/ford-...n3mTrYfYy5IoOC14yLTzN1_mqhNGym7D4XQSOjM)which has a kit that has the items I need but it is asking me to select which pistons, rod bearings, rings, etc. I want and I don't know if they are differences in performance or size and was just wondering if anyone could help
 
If you are going to need machine work done I, would have those folks consult you on the parts you need. A long in the tooth automotive machine shop will have the experience to recommend things to get as well as which to avoid.
I've never been a big fan of kits. Much rather pick my own stuff even if it costs more.
 
+1 on selecting my own.
Most of the options have to do with the sizes, like pistons and rings standard or bored, crankshaft standard or ground. The upgrades are oil pump standard or high volume, and freeze plugs steel or brass.

If you're going to rebuild what you have without any machine work you'll need to acquire appropriate measuring tools and check the cylinder diameters and crankshaft main and rod journals diameters. If you're going to need it bored the machinist will likely want the pistons to bore and hone to for correct clearances. If the crankshaft needs ground the machinist will tell you what he had to grind the journals to to get them cleaned up. It makes it difficult to get a kit when you don't know what the final measurements are going to be until after the machine work.

An engine rebuild requires a lot of planning and homework. For a first time rebuilder the appropriate shop manuals are mandatory, how to books can be a big help. No comment on YouTube videos.
 
As MAD IRISHMAN said, find a competent machine shop to help with selecting parts. The most common problem with "kits" is the pistons will not have the correct compression distance (pin in the wrong place) and the piston ends up .020-.030 down the bore at TDC. This cause loss of compression and increases the possibility of detonation, and loss of performance. At a minimum the rod bolt nuts and multi-groove valves should be replaced as they are known causes of catastrophic failure. Even on a stock rebuild I'd suggest using an adjustable timing set. This will alloy the camshaft to be degreed in.
If you are rebuilding for a significant increase in performance the list gets MUCH longer. Good luck with the build. Chuck
 
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