3G alternator upgrade - wiring question

[tony-muscle]

I am in the process of installing a 3G alternator upgrade. I am closely following this thread, https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-302-3g-alternator-upgrade

All is good, except a few questions. I didn't finish the job last night because the pulley had a slight wabble so I decided to purchase a new one.

I have two questions:

-When I disconnected the voltage regulator, the wire that goes to the "S" post of the regulator is not used. This would be wire 904 in the wiring diagram. Would this wire be considered a good source for ignition on? I ask because I need to connect one of the wires of the alternator to the ignition on. 

-The battery plus terminal on the back of the alternator ends up very close to the dip stick. It will probably be okay, but makes me a little uncomfortable. Has anyone added a boot or some sort of insulation in between?

 

[tony-muscle]

I am in the process of installing a 3G alternator upgrade. I am closely following this thread, https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-302-3g-alternator-upgrade

All is good, except a few questions. I didn't finish the job last night because the pulley had a slight wabble so I decided to purchase a new one.

I have two questions:

-When I disconnected the voltage regulator, the wire that goes to the "S" post of the regulator is not used. This would be wire 904 in the wiring diagram. Would this wire be considered a good source for ignition on? I ask because I need to connect one of the wires of the alternator to the ignition on. 

-The battery plus terminal on the back of the alternator ends up very close to the dip stick. It will probably be okay, but makes me a little uncomfortable. Has anyone added a boot or some sort of insulation in between?

Another question is, should i connect the alternator charging wire to the starter solenoid battery post or to the terminal block on the fender?

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[Don C]

If your 904 wire was connected to the "S" regulator terminal you must have gauges. And, yes that wire will connect to the "I" terminal on the 3G alternator to provide key on voltage.

Connecting the main charge wire to the solenoid will disable charge side of the ammeter, your ammeter will just show discharge. Connecting it to the terminal may exceed the ammeter's capacity, even though it is a shunt type, when it is charging. If you decide to go this way and the ammeter pegs I would change it back to the solenoid. Preferred method is to have a Rocketman voltmeter conversion.

You can remove the three screws that hold the back of the case on and reclock it to see if you can get better clearance.

 

[tony-muscle]

Thank you Don. I have already modified the ampmeter to voltmeter by Rocketman. I think i will stick to attaching the alternator wire to the starter solenoid if it doesnt make a difference. A more direct connection I guess.

Good idea about clocking the case. I will look into it.

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[iceberg65]

I clocked mine when I did the swap; it wasn't too difficult and it let me inspect the internals since the alternator was used. I also decided to paint the case black since I had it apart. I also connected my alt wire to the solenoid terminal since I have a voltmeter swapped in.

 

[Don C]

I would go with the solenoid connection, too, less connections.

You can also get aftermarket terminal covers like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Stud-Terminal-Covers-Red/dp/B017E0869A/ref=sr_1_75?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493678219&sr=1-75-spons&keywords=alternator+connector&psc=1

I hadn't heard of this brand before, looks like they have some useful electrical/wiring products

http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/index.htm

 

[tony-muscle]

I would go with the solenoid connection, too, less connections.

You can also get aftermarket terminal covers like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Stud-Terminal-Covers-Red/dp/B017E0869A/ref=sr_1_75?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1493678219&sr=1-75-spons&keywords=alternator+connector&psc=1

I hadn't heard of this brand before, looks like they have some useful electrical/wiring products

http://www.fastronixsolutions.com/index.htm

Funy, I bought exactly those shortly after my post.[emoji106]

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[tony-muscle]

I will try clocking the case to align better. Thank you for the tip.

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[tony-muscle]

Thank you for the clocking of the housing advice. I installed all yesterday and it's working great. I am getting 14 to 14.3 volts with the engine on. I rotated the housing and now the battery connection of the alternator is clear of the dipstick and aiming in the right direction. I fit the boot mentioned above over the terminal and although it's not a perfect fit it is covering the stud connection. I bought the 1/4" stud instead. The 3/8" may fit better over the plastic "cup" that surrounds the terminal.

The alternator fits great. I didn't need any spacers besides what was used with my older alternator. I followed the instructions in this thread: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-how-to-302-3g-alternator-upgrade . As indicated in the thread, make sure you purchase the M8 bolt. A 25mm long bolt fits perfect.