4v Cleveland tune up question.

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cazsper

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May 30, 2012
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Location
Sunnyvale, CA
My Car
1968 Coupe: 393w, TKO-600, Maier Racing springs, Global West suspension, Currie 9in with forged axles, 3.50 gears, Trutrac, Baer brakes front/rear
1973 Mach-1: 351c 4V, C-6, 3.73:1 gears and a long "To Do" list..
My '73 Mach-1 currently has a 4v Cleveland with a cam, victor intake (I hate), and the original points distributer. Recently, I was driving on the freeway and I noticed some "popping" from the exhaust. I've also noticed it seems to be down on power overall. Im planning on an oil change, plugs, wires, and cap and rotor. I don't have the funds for the Petronix like I had wanted. How good actually is the points and how do I know if that is the issue?

As for 4v open chamber heads, I have heard that they are prone to detonation. Should I use a colder spark plug? I believe I am right at about 10:1 compression. Thanks in advance.

Mike

 
Properly adjusted points are OK for a street car. However, they have to be adjusted frequently and the cam cleaned and lubed. As the gap changes (narrows), due to wear of the rubbing block, the timing also changes (retards).

 
According to the guy I bought my car from, the engine had been rebuilt. It was originally a 2v motor. It was rebuilt with forged pistons, 4v heads, a cam and the victor intake. It just recently started the "popping" when I get on it on the freeway. Thanks everyone.

 
Casper... I have a 73 q code and had similar issues on occasion. Turned out to be my fuel filter, $4.99 at advance auto and it was good to go. I always seen to think its a big problem first, driving a 40 year old car will do that to you, but I over look the simple, easy fixes. Good luck...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk



Properly adjusted points are OK for a street car. However, they have to be adjusted frequently and the cam cleaned and lubed. As the gap changes (narrows), due to wear of the rubbing block, the timing also changes (retards).




My '73 Mach-1 currently has a 4v Cleveland with a cam, victor intake (I hate), and the original points distributer. Recently, I was driving on the freeway and I noticed some "popping" from the exhaust. I've also noticed it seems to be down on power overall. Im planning on an oil change, plugs, wires, and cap and rotor. I don't have the funds for the Petronix like I had wanted. How good actually is the points and how do I know if that is the issue?

As for 4v open chamber heads, I have heard that they are prone to detonation. Should I use a colder spark plug? I believe I am right at about 10:1 compression. Thanks in advance.

Mike




Cazsper... I have a 73 q code and had similar issues on occasion. Turned out to be my fuel filter, $4.99 at advance auto and it was good to go. I always seen to think its a big problem first, driving a 40 year old car will do that to you, but I over look the simple, easy fixes. Good luck...

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Honestly, I never thought of that. Thanks..

Mike

 
could be a bad tank of gas also.

in the winter more water gets into the underground tanks from melt water.

if changing the filter does nothing try dumping some octane booster in the tank and keep an eye on things. if the next couple of fuel ups have the engine keep popping then you want to look at other clogs inside the carb or ignition issues.

since you have points they can drift wildly.

you want to throw a timing light on and check initial timing that it has not moved. then use a dwell meter and check the points gap making sure it is still in spec.

next wouldn't hurt to check the ignition wires make sure nothing is loose and you have good contact at the plugs, coil, distributor cap.

if the poping is happening at higher rpms, then it could be a problem with the spring on the points, it get weak and then the points start bouncing at higher rpms and cause miss fire.

Accel made a heavy duty points replacement with a double spring and larger contact point to help keep the points going longer between adjustments. it was suppose to be for racing but worked better on a street car when all the made in china points junk took over the market.

 
I don't have the funds for the Petronix like I had wanted. How good actually is the points and how do I know if that is the issue?

Mike
You could always go to duraspark. I'm a big fan of stock parts upgrading.

 
+ 1 with 72HCODE with his response! What type of gas are you running? It also would not hurt to have a vaccum gage connected to measure your vaccum when adjusting your carb and timing settings.

mustang7173

 
Start saving for that Pertronix ignitor. The basic unit and not the II or III ones. That was the very first mod I ever did to my Mach 1 way back in 1996. Still going strong. I noticed a difference straight away.

 
+1 tk the basic Pertronix unit. Fairly inexpensive, unbelievably easy and fast install...amazing performance increase.

Also, if you ard still running a vacuum advance can on your distributor, check to make sure it is working correctly. If it fails you will suffer poor driveability.

 
Go to a junkyard and find a mid to late 70s 351/400m engine and pull one of those distributers. Not only are they very inexpensive but theyre SUPER reliable. Im fairly sure that Ford STILL uses the same type.

 
This almost sounds like an exhaust valve issue. Could be sticking.. IMHO

 
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