71 custom build

[Ray]

Ok I checked my build sheet. The front suspension was dropped a total available 5" but with the addition of 1 1/2 " bump stops, that leaves me 3 1/2" lower than stock position. When the bump stops are not installed, the upper ball joint does get close to its limits.


The spec sheet on 71 mustang says the height of the car is 50.1"s by sectioning the body 4" , dropping the suspension 3 1/2 , and losing 2" of tire height , that leaves me at 40.6" about a half inch higher than my goal of 40" . When lowering a vehicle the relative cost and mechanical change requirement increase dramatically the lower you try to go. Similar to that of gaining a half second in the quarter with engine mods. Lol, I could lose that 1/2" by installing 2" drop spindles. I figure a 2" drop in the front only would result in an overall height drop of a bit better than a half inch. 2" drop spindles would leave me only 2 1/2 inch of clearance to my crossmember. Since I am always temped to drive while slammed, that leaves me very vulnerable. Ha ha ha , in other words I would be left vulnerable. That's one reason why I don't go after excessive horsepower. Ok I Have weak will power. If it's there I'm gonna use it.

 

[Wide-body71]

That is info that I didn't have. Thanks for sharing it. For some reason when I did the Shelby drop ( lowered the upper A arm in the shock tower 1") and installed a 1"drop spring in my 68 mustang, I didn't run into binding of the ball joint but in the 71, I believe the positioning of the A arm, when the car is lowered a couple of inches, has the A arm piched up too far for the ball joints range. The A arm in a flat position already has an upward kick at the ball joint so if it is angle above flat it really puts the ball joint at stress. This tubular one I put in takes care of both the 1" drop and has a flat perch for the ball joint to sit on. The ball joint is also adjustable. If it turns out your good then you wouldn't need it but it exists in case you do my friend.


By the way, slammed, that car looks nuts

 

[Ray]

I'm posting 3 pics in order, first is ball joint at ride height, 2nd is setting on bump stop, 3rd is slammed without bump stop. I'm thinking it'll be just fine as is, but still considering the drop spindle option . I gotta say that control arm is awesome and I may have to chk that out . You said shelbey drop is one inch? I'm at 3 1/5 " to bump stop.








As I have had to do this before, it is a 20 minute per side job to cut the UCA and reset the ball joint angle. I've also many times had to extend UCA's to accommodate camber problems. I feel that the scinerio I have here with the 71 is in an acceptable range. Check the pics out and let me know what you think .


I cut the shackles and got the back down close to another inch, lol, getting there.

 

[Wide-body71]

I'm posting 3 pics in order, first is ball joint at ride height, 2nd is setting on bump stop, 3rd is slammed without bump stop. I'm thinking it'll be just fine as is, but still considering the drop spindle option . I gotta say that control arm is awesome and I may have to chk that out . You said shelbey drop is one inch? I'm at 3 1/5 " to bump stop.








As I have had to do this before, it is a 20 minute per side job to cut the UCA and reset the ball joint angle. I've also many times had to extend UCA's to accommodate camber problems. I feel that the scinerio I have here with the 71 is in an acceptable range. Check the pics out and let me know what you think .

That actually looks really great in the pics. Having the ability to just modify a control arm eliminates it being an obstacle at all. The "Shelby Drop" is just a term used when you drill two new holes in the shock tower one inch lower so that it flatten the position of the arm and create a better, more responsive steering feedback, while lowering the front an inch. A drop spindle would also be great but I'm thinking of going with a larger front disc and I'm not sure if I should buy anything till I've found a solution that doesn't break the bank. Sometimes I feel like I've nicked a jugular.

 

[Ray]

I know the feeling lol , that's why I learned to do stuff like cut up and change the control arms. I've done 100's of lowering projects, my son is into low riders and mini trucks, these guys slammmmm everything within hours of getting it. We cut up control arms all the time. I've learned a lot of low budget tricks & mods over the years . Thanks for the info.


I wish we were closer , it would be my pleasure to cut up and do whatever , to your UCA's for you, that's something we do regularly .


I cut the shackles , shortened them and got the rear dropped almost another inch . Now I could remove my bump stops and go ahead and adjust the a arms for ball joint pitch.

I'm posting 3 pics in order, first is ball joint at ride height, 2nd is setting on bump stop, 3rd is slammed without bump stop. I'm thinking it'll be just fine as is, but still considering the drop spindle option . I gotta say that control arm is awesome and I may have to chk that out . You said shelbey drop is one inch? I'm at 3 1/5 " to bump stop.








As I have had to do this before, it is a 20 minute per side job to cut the UCA and reset the ball joint angle. I've also many times had to extend UCA's to accommodate camber problems. I feel that the scinerio I have here with the 71 is in an acceptable range. Check the pics out and let me know what you think .

That actually looks really great in the pics. Having the ability to just modify a control arm eliminates it being an obstacle at all. The "Shelby Drop" is just a term used when you drill two new holes in the shock tower one inch lower so that it flatten the position of the arm and create a better, more responsive steering feedback, while lowering the front an inch. A drop spindle would also be great but I'm thinking of going with a larger front disc and I'm not sure if I should buy anything till I've found a solution that doesn't break the bank. Sometimes I feel like I've nicked a jugular.

I don't recall, but perhaps the 75 Granada rotors are bigger than the mustang , if that's so, then you might want to check out the fat mans spindles. May give you all your wanting.

 

[Wide-body71]

I would really love to pick your brain on that a little further when the time comes. I admire how you don't feel the need to go with off the shelf new stuff and I kind of feel silly mentioning the ball joint angle given all your experience on the matter. It explains why I like the look of your shock positioning and your bag set up. Trick !!


Does your rear end housing have enough travel without hitting the tunnel bump stop or did you modify the floor under th rear seat for extra clearance? I dropped my rear 4" from stock and think that I might be asking for trouble. The only thing that gives me comfort is the fact that I have a 143lb spring rate vs the 90 or so lbs. stock rate. Stiffer right but less travel overall. Oh and replaced the shackles with slider boxes to elimenate the need for a sway bar. I read so here that the dirt track race cars use sliders with no rear sway bar and have very little body roll. With over the axle exhaust, space is at a premium back there.

 

[Ray]

I would really love to pick your brain on that a little further when the time comes. I admire how you don't feel the need to go with off the shelf new stuff and I kind of feel silly mentioning the ball joint angle given all your experience on the matter. It explains why I like the look of your shock positioning and your bag set up. Trick !!

Thanks , that set up took 5 hours , $12 in steel, $40 for shocks, $100 for bags, $50 for lines & fittings so far. We keep those shocks in stock, often use them, they are 10 5/8 " compressed and 16" extended. They work great on front suspension drops where we have to relocate shock position. Love getting my brain picked, love sharing my experiences with other builders. Some people need the store bought options, billet this & that and pretty gadgets. I prefer the Mcguiver approach, lol. It makes doing stuff like this affordable to almost anybody.

I would really love to pick your brain on that a little further when the time comes. I admire how you don't feel the need to go with off the shelf new stuff and I kind of feel silly mentioning the ball joint angle given all your experience on the matter. It explains why I like the look of your shock positioning and your bag set up. Trick !!


Does your rear end housing have enough travel without hitting the tunnel bump stop or did you modify the floor under th rear seat for extra clearance? I dropped my rear 4" from stock and think that I might be asking for trouble. The only thing that gives me comfort is the fact that I have a 143lb spring rate vs the 90 or so lbs. stock rate. Stiffer right but less travel overall. Oh and replaced the shackles with slider boxes to elimenate the need for a sway bar. I read so here that the dirt track race cars use sliders with no rear sway bar and have very little body roll. With over the axle exhaust, space is at a premium back there.

I have removed the tunnel bump , added 1" side bumps on the rails. I still have almost 3" of clearance there. I probably will hit them occasionally. I have air shocks back there too, I know a little old school but I'm a diehard. Will most likely add old style traction bars also. My projects tend to remain adjustable for the first few times out too. I'm no stranger to bottoming out once in a while . The possibility of adding air bags in the rear is still on the table. I could then adjust to whatever ride height works best for what condition. Running the roads aired up , or cruising the strip slammed.

 

[Ray]

Reconfigured the hood latch mechanism . Since I'm going to have to relocate also the hood catch I put the latch in front of the core support then I'll locate the catch where it needs to be. I also finished filling in the gaps in the engine compartment splash shield and reconnected it to the suspension towers. Here's a few pics of that.

 

[Ray]

Finished the rain trough in the trunk. Wraps around to the back, a deeper section in the rear with two 1" down tubes through the trunk floor for drainage. Here are a couple of pics.

 

[jbojo]

Your skills are amazing, I am really enjoying your build thread!!!

 

[Ray]

Thanks man , I'm enjoying sharing. I've always been a closet builder, I'm glad I decided to go out on this one. I'm enjoying this build more than any I've done because of you guys and your support.

 

[Luke]

Thanks again Ray more practical stuff that I just never think about when people undertake this level of build. Starting to come together mate cant wait to see more.

 

[DK73]

Wow Ray this is so Cool Work!! Regards Lars :coolphotos::goodpost::bravo:

 

[Ray]

Thanks guys , it is starting to go back together now. Time to put the glass back in the doors, install the electric window lift kit, set up the door latch release solenoids and hang the doors & fenders.

 

[Ray]

Hey guys, I'm trying to think out my drive train, need a little help. I have a pre mass air flow 302 out of about an 87 GT with a t5 Behind it. I also have the 351C that I built up with a 4v conversion including redoing the heads , with an FMX Behind it. I also have a 350 small block with a t350 behind it. I know that one will get some comments, lol, I haven't heard from a lot of you lately. I think I would like to put the 351C but I also want the T5 behind it. So here we go. Does anyone have a clutch pedal set up ? Also can anyone help me link up with a bell housing that would work. I admit that most of the hot rods I've built ,end up with Chevy stuff in them. You know built ford tough with Chevy stuff, lol. My familiarity with what works together in Fords is limited. Thank in advance for your input here. ::help::::help::


I believe that the 86 302 bell housing will fit the 351c and I can use a cable conversion. I also need info on what flywheel, clutch , pp , and tob I would use. Again thanks for input.

 

[71_resurrection]

I vote 351C with the T5 behind it. Sorry no info on parts.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

We are anxiously awaiting your next posting.

 

[Wide-body71]

We are anxiously awaiting your next posting.

I second that!!

 

[73pony]

351C with T5 behind it!!! I am converting my FMX auto to a T-5 right now. See my thread regarding parts and where I got them. http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-looking-for-some-parts-for-t-5-conversion?highlight=t-5

First page has a couple of posts on where I ordered what parts and how much. 3rd page has some pics of the parts that have arrived thus far.

 

[mach1000]

any updates on the Mustera?