71 Mach 1, tell me what to do.

[zaxwax]

Hey guys, I just stumbled into a lovely 71 mustang mach 1. It's got the 351 2v with the FMX transmission. The body is already mostly restored.

There's a lot of information on this board, but after a few days of digging, I'm overwhelmed with information.

I mostly use the car for just cruising around town, but I would love to know, what you guys consider essential upgrades? I don't need to race, but I would like to improve the drivability and safety of it. (less like a parade float)

Essentially, if you could complete this sentence:

If I was starting my build all over again, I would do these things first......

The car came with a sony stereo and polk speakers in new locations, so it's pretty much not going to be concours, so I'm just going for a fun car to drive around town. I have AC from classic air on the way and I've already mounted 3 point seat belts. I've ordered LEDs and a new headlight switch to hopefully fix the incredibly dim dash lights and I'm considering LEDs all around for turn signals and brake lights. What next?

Also if anyone knows a good shop that's used to working on classics in the nashville/franklin area I'd appreciate the recommendation.

Thanks!

 

[rpmcarter]

Hey guys, I just stumbled into a lovely 71 mustang mach 1. It's got the 351 2v with the FMX transmission. The body is already mostly restored.

There's a lot of information on this board, but after a few days of digging, I'm overwhelmed with information.

I mostly use the car for just cruising around town, but I would love to know, what you guys consider essential upgrades? I don't need to race, but I would like to improve the drivability and safety of it. (less like a parade float)

Essentially, if you could complete this sentence:

If I was starting my build all over again, I would do these things first......

The car came with a sony stereo and polk speakers in new locations, so it's pretty much not going to be concours, so I'm just going for a fun car to drive around town. I have AC from classic air on the way and I've already mounted 3 point seat belts. I've ordered LEDs and a new headlight switch to hopefully fix the incredibly dim dash lights and I'm considering LEDs all around for turn signals and brake lights. What next?

Also if anyone knows a good shop that's used to working on classics in the nashville/franklin area I'd appreciate the recommendation.

Thanks!

The only shop I know that does high quality work is Taylors Paint and Body in Mt. Juliet.(615)758-8722,address is 301 Liberty Chapel Road. The only problem is they were the engine builders for Bobby Hamilton.....so they are high priced. I went to school with the two Taylor brothers and Bobby Hamilton. So what i'm saying is they are high dollar but do excellent work.

 

[c9zx]

brakes, steering, suspension. The "float" issue can be improved with a matched set of anti-sway bars and decent shocks. Chuck

 

[71_resurrection]

brakes, steering, suspension. The "float" issue can be improved with a matched set of anti-sway bars and decent shocks. Chuck

+1 on brakes, suspension and steering. My suggestion is lift the car, tear all of this out, I mean all of it. Then start with all new components. The brake lines may be the only that is worth keeping, but even then I would just replace it all at once or break it up into 3 sections, one being brake system, one being all suspension, and the last obviously is steering. Trust me on this, I did it as I saw the parts needed replacement, and ended up replacing 95% of it over time... PITA!!!

 

[zaxwax]

brakes, steering, suspension. The "float" issue can be improved with a matched set of anti-sway bars and decent shocks. Chuck

+1 on brakes, suspension and steering. My suggestion is lift the car, tear all of this out, I mean all of it. Then start with all new components. The brake lines may be the only that is worth keeping, but even then I would just replace it all at once or break it up into 3 sections, one being brake system, one being all suspension, and the last obviously is steering. Trust me on this, I did it as I saw the parts needed replacement, and ended up replacing 95% of it over time... PITA!!!

Any specific recommendations? From reading through this forum I got Classic air for AC, mustang project for LEDs. I know there's a lot of collective experience that I'm hoping can guide me. Otherwise I'm just looking through the cj pony parts website for hours on end. (which I've been doing). I'm grateful for any advice.

 

[Luke]

Looks like you have some sound advice already. Enjoy the site and welcome from Australia

 

[Gold Rush]

Have fun!!!!!!

 

[c9zx]

Here is where I always go first for parts, new or used http://www.ohiomustang.com . He (Don) is very knowledgeable and honest.

Chuck

 

[jbojo]

Welcome from TriCities WA.

 

[jhawk635]

brakes, steering, suspension. The "float" issue can be improved with a matched set of anti-sway bars and decent shocks. Chuck

+1 To get rid of that "parade float" feel, one of the easiest, quickest, and inexpensive improvements that I made was upgrading to a 1 1/8" front sway bar. This greatly improved the handling of the car and made it much safer to drive.

John

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

There are several of us in the area. I have a list I can add you to if you wish of local area members. It looks like we now have enough for a good BBQ!

Be glad to get together sometime and tell you what I know about a few local shops. I also did the classic auto air conversion myelf, so if you need to look at one or want any advice or help I can probably assist you.

Send me a message if you want the list, to be on the list or just a hand.

 

[zaxwax]

Alright. I will add sway bars, possibly from ohio mustang supply to my list. Great! Is there an easy brake upgrade kit that can drop in, i.e. new rotors and new calipers that bolt on to the front? I have front discs currently. I've heard different opinions about the rears, some say discs are the way to go, some say it's only a 5% difference. I'd like to get the braking distance comparable to a sienna van if possible....

thanks for the knowledge guys.

brakes, steering, suspension. The "float" issue can be improved with a matched set of anti-sway bars and decent shocks. Chuck

+1 To get rid of that "parade float" feel, one of the easiest, quickest, and inexpensive improvements that I made was upgrading to a 1 1/8" front sway bar. This greatly improved the handling of the car and made it much safer to drive.

John

 

[c9zx]

Braking effectiveness is greatly influenced by the friction the tire can generate under braking. So tire contact patch size and compound can make significant differences. If the rotors and calipers are in good condition a good higher friction pad can also improve stopping. I've had good experience with Hawk, Performance Friction, and EBC. The rear brakes do about 15-20% of the braking. Changing from properly functioning drum brakes to after market disc brakes won't improve stopping distance very much, if any, and is an expensive effort. Drum brakes can upgraded with semi-metallic shoes.I would spend the money elsewhere. This site will tell you everything you need to know and probably more than you want to know. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers

Just an opinion. Chuck

 

[71_resurrection]

brakes, steering, suspension. The "float" issue can be improved with a matched set of anti-sway bars and decent shocks. Chuck

+1 on brakes, suspension and steering. My suggestion is lift the car, tear all of this out, I mean all of it. Then start with all new components. The brake lines may be the only that is worth keeping, but even then I would just replace it all at once or break it up into 3 sections, one being brake system, one being all suspension, and the last obviously is steering. Trust me on this, I did it as I saw the parts needed replacement, and ended up replacing 95% of it over time... PITA!!!

Any specific recommendations? From reading through this forum I got Classic air for AC, mustang project for LEDs. I know there's a lot of collective experience that I'm hoping can guide me. Otherwise I'm just looking through the cj pony parts website for hours on end. (which I've been doing). I'm grateful for any advice.

This is a great question, what it boils down to is money. There is always stock replacement to keep the original feel of the car and then there are a ton of upgrades out there. If you wanna go stock,buy a kit from don at OMS. If not there are all kinds of product lines like total control products and stainless steel brake company or wilwood.

 

[zaxwax]

Braking effectiveness is greatly influenced by the friction the tire can generate under braking. So tire contact patch size and compound can make significant differences. If the rotors and calipers are in good condition a good higher friction pad can also improve stopping. I've had good experience with Hawk, Performance Friction, and EBC. The rear brakes do about 15-20% of the braking. Changing from properly functioning drum brakes to after market disc brakes won't improve stopping distance very much, if any, and is an expensive effort. Drum brakes can upgraded with semi-metallic shoes.I would spend the money elsewhere. This site will tell you everything you need to know and probably more than you want to know. http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers

Just an opinion. Chuck

Great info to have. I appreciate all the advice guys. Looks like Don from OMS has a lot of supporters here. He will be definitely getting some business from me based on that.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

for rear brakes a weld on bracket for a GM metric caliper is a cheap and easy upgrade-but it has no e-brake. about 225 if you can weld

I have Baer Ironsports and it is hard to find a 15" wheel that will clear them.

I found slotted drilled front rotors, used Hawk Ceramic pads IIRC and a Wilwood 4WDB MC along with a proportioning valve in the rear lines. It stops pretty well, though there is some room for improvement.

Often sway bars effectiveness can be restored with new bushings and end links for a fraction of the cost. I have a rear sway bar I'll give you with all the hardware if you want it. It is a good balance for a front sway bar, but I'm monkeying with my suspension and it is not a good fit on my car anymore

A real alignment by a shop that will work outside the factory specs is important.

Also your rear leafs may need attention (Nashville Spring can re-arch and replace bushings much cheaper than buying new springs)

Steering components need to be checked along with control arms and strut rods, but it only takes one bad bushing or worn ball joint to make it all feel like crap. It may be very cheap to correct. When I bought my car it was unsafe to drive at highway speeds-a real killer

It took an alignment, new shocks and new rear springs to feel much improved. It is still a 40+ year old car, but it is a very crisp and precise one

Yours will likely be about the same

I have a pair of NIB front KYB shocks-never mounted if you want. Sure we can make a deal.

 

[zaxwax]

for rear brakes a weld on bracket for a GM metric caliper is a cheap and easy upgrade-but it has no e-brake. about 225 if you can weld

I have Baer Ironsports and it is hard to find a 15" wheel that will clear them.

I found slotted drilled front rotors, used Hawk Ceramic pads IIRC and a Wilwood 4WDB MC along with a proportioning valve in the rear lines. It stops pretty well, though there is some room for improvement.

Often sway bars effectiveness can be restored with new bushings and end links for a fraction of the cost. I have a rear sway bar I'll give you with all the hardware if you want it. It is a good balance for a front sway bar, but I'm monkeying with my suspension and it is not a good fit on my car anymore

A real alignment by a shop that will work outside the factory specs is important.

Also your rear leafs may need attention (Nashville Spring can re-arch and replace bushings much cheaper than buying new springs)

Steering components need to be checked along with control arms and strut rods, but it only takes one bad bushing or worn ball joint to make it all feel like crap. It may be very cheap to correct. When I bought my car it was unsafe to drive at highway speeds-a real killer

It took an alignment, new shocks and new rear springs to feel much improved. It is still a 40+ year old car, but it is a very crisp and precise one

Yours will likely be about the same

I have a pair of NIB front KYB shocks-never mounted if you want. Sure we can make a deal.

That is all really great information, I appreciate it. I'm definitely in the market for new shocks and sway bars.

 

[Don65Stang]

Essentially, if you could complete this sentence:

If I was starting my build all over again, I would do these things first...

Here is the order and things I would do if it were my car:

*Brakes - all new and upgrade to front discs if not already have them

*Suspension and steering

*Tires ok? Repace if older than 5 years

*Add A/C if it doesn't have it

*The FMX is ok but the first gear ratio is a dog. Repace the trans with either a C4 or a 4R70W which has a much better 1st gear plus has overdrive.

*Change rear gear to a 3.50 ratio

*Better seat belts/ modern seat belts

*Nothing is wrong running a 2 barrel carb setup but switching to a 4 barrel carb and intake is cool and gets you more performance

*Exhaust note sound ok?

*sound system

 

[caspianwendell]

You have some great recommendations so I will just say welcome from Arkansas