Aftermarket Suspension Kits

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Here is mine...

68-73 FRONT SUSPENSION KIT

Item #68-73FTSUSP-KIT

 


Kit includes 2 complete upper control arms with riveted ball joints, 2 complete lower control arms with riveted ball joints, 2 coil spring perches, 2 coil spring insulators, sway bar end link kit, 2 sway bar bushings (5/8) and a strut rod bushing kit.


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Applications include:

[*]1968 Mustang

[*]1969 Mustang

[*]1970 Mustang

[*]1971 Mustang

[*]1972 Mustang

[*]1973 Mustang

Shipping for this oversize item is $30.00 and it is not included in the free shipping offer.

Price: $304.95

Qty:

 
I don't have any experience with it, but when I see that they don't offer returns that's a red flag to me.

I would go with Don's, not only are his a better price, but they will be a good quality and he stands behind what he sells.

 
Don (OMS) isn't really into the aftermarket modification side of things, and he's very picky about what he sells.  You can bet that if he offers it, it's the best the replacement/reproduction industry has to offer.  ::thumb::

Concourse applications are subjective - it really depends on what class you're wanting to compete in. Mustang Clubs of America (MCA), for instance, has different classes to compete in, which I believe several will allow 'factory correct' aftermarket replacement components without deducting points. The top categories, however, will demand that only NOS, OEM, or properly restored/survivor pieces are used to complete the vehicles.

 
I have attached pictures of an NOS display of service replacement parts that I took at Bob Perkins shop prior to starting my concourse driven restoration.  Take a look at these. If you have any more concourse questions possibly post up in that category of the forum.  At least that way all contributors will know the direction your heading

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I am looking for as close to OEM as I can get.  I am not interested in the Thoroughbred category - that's a bit over the top, even for me...
You'd be fine going with OMS... or even NPD for that matter.  I tend to save CJPP for the aftermarket "restomod" things.

I'd probably compare the parts you're looking for from either place against the pics BK just posted.  I'm pretty sure you won't find any bare-metal upper control arms & spring perches anywhere, though (which I think Mr. Perkins' display might be missing the boat, in that respect).

 
Eric, actually they did use bare UCA and spring perches.  That 73 vert with 170'ish miles were surface rusted.  The earlier body styles had the 1/2 bare half dipped black upper control arms.  Most of the manufacturers just continued this in the 71-73's.  I ended up getting the Scott Drake uppers that were the 1/2 and 1/2 and stripped them to bare metal and then painted with the Eastwood paint for metal finish.

73 Vert:

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My build:

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Interesting.  Thanks for clearing that up.  ::thumb::

Personally, and especially after how mine came to me, I would not want a single speck of exposed bare metal anywhere on my car.  :whistling:

 
What you mean, you had all kinds of bare metal on your car when it came to you.  It was so bare you could see all the way through it. LOL.
Not no mo'. :whistling:

rofl

 
This is awesome - just the kind of information I am looking for. I will probably take the same direction and use the Eastwood coatings. I have used them on other bare metal parts on the car.

 
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Thanks - I guess what I am really asking is do these kits have the proper finishes and tooling for a concours application?
Mike, I don't think any are going to have proper finishes and tooling for our 71-3's

Scott drake's two tone with be the closest looking as far as finish

I don't buy the bare upper on a new car - service replacement maybe

If you get a 65-66 or a 67-68 you'll be in luck , you can get concours everything  :whistling:

 
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I've pitched in before on what I encountered on my front end "KIT" I bought. It was the Scott Drake all painted. I chose that as I too could care less about concours appearance. The kit itself was good and fitted without any issues. What was BAD in this kit, labeled as 67-73, (WTF), was totally incorrect coil springs for the 71-73's. My advice, do NOT buy a kit that includes coil springs. If yours are in need of replacement, go directly to Eaton Detroit Springs website or call the tech line and order the EXACT springs for YOUR car's specs. The ones in that kit were way too tall, wrong gauge steel VERY hard to compress and install. I ended up refinishing my originals and reinstalling them as they were still in perfect condition.

If you want the "look" that's your choice, but take my advice on springs.

 
Personally, I prefer Moog R series upper and lower control arms. For the strut rod, I went with a solid strut rod to get a crisper feel in the suspension and steering. Another option for strut rods is to use a stock style rod with Meier Racing bushings which will give you a more desirable caster settings during spirited driving. As a cruiser, you most likely not feel a difference. You can also reinforce the Moog arms to flex less by welding plates to the side of the uppers and boxing the lowers. With this there are two options, do it yourself and maintain the rubber bushing or buy them reinforced and boxed from Meier and get what appear to be roller bushings on the uppers. I place great emphasis on the chassis tuning so you can actually put the power to the road and get rid of sloppiness where possible.

I would be more that happy to share more details on my set up if you wish. I was originally going to upgrade to coil overs later, but I am more than happy with how my set up performs so I am staying with what I have.

 
Just in case it helps, here is the section out of the MCA Early Model Judging Rule Book on 71-73 Suspension.



 
Personally, I prefer Moog R series upper and lower control arms.  For the strut rod, I went with a solid strut rod to get a crisper feel in the suspension and steering.  Another option for strut rods is to use a stock style rod with Meier Racing bushings which will give you a more desirable caster settings during spirited driving.  As a cruiser, you most likely not feel a difference.  You can also reinforce the Moog arms to flex less by welding plates to the side of the uppers and boxing the lowers.  With this there are two options, do it yourself and maintain the rubber bushing or buy them reinforced and boxed from Meier and get what appear to be roller bushings on the uppers.  I place great emphasis on the chassis tuning so you can actually put the power to the road and get rid of sloppiness where possible.

I would be more that happy to share more details on my set up if you wish.  I was originally going to upgrade to coil overs later, but I am more than happy with how my set up performs so I am staying with what I have.
Thanks, but my interest lies in making the car as original as possible.

 
Just in case it helps, here is the section out of the MCA Early Model Judging Rule Book on 71-73 Suspension.

Looks like it is open to interpretation as far as how the upper and lower control arms are finished.  Everything else seems pretty straightforward.

Save

 
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