Another new guy 73 Mach 1 (added pics)

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Joined
Dec 11, 2015
Messages
626
Reaction score
116
Location
Philadelphia
My Car
73 Mach 1
Hello everyone, new guy here. I was referred for the Vintage Mustang forum. I come from the new school when it comes to cars and hot rods. I had a 95 Caprice (9C1) that I built up with a 383/ LE2 heads. Car was done from front to back. She made 405HP/395TQ and went 11.89 @ 118 at 4200lb race weight all motor.

Anyway I just recently came to possess a 1973 Mustang Mach 1 Q code. So the world of carbs and adjusting timing with a screwdriver are foreign to me. I look forward to learning so bare with me on getting the old school terminology down. It is believed to have 36K original miles on an unmolested motor/drive train. Story is it belonged to women who got it in college and ended up sitting in a barn for 20 some years and she ended up getting the car in a divorce. She then sold it to my brother with 32K on it in 1999. Since then I brother put a ram air setup on it, changed the gears to 3:89’s and a Mallory electronic distributor. Everything else is completely stock. I haven’t confirmed with a Marti report that the numbers are matching but based on some of the looks of things it look legit to be 36K original. I’m basing that off of the interior, break pedal and some the engine bay. Still have the door sticker also which is good. Anyway…I have lots of questions about parts and things to do to the car that I’ll post in other sections. I understand that is might be a rare car but there are just some things I just have to change for me to enjoy the car the way I want. I will be keeping everything that is factory that comes off and the car will not see the track or autocross. She will just be used for weekend cruising and spirited driving! Thanks guys and gals

 
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Welcome from North Carolina. I have a 73 Q code 4 speed Mach1 I ordered new so if you have a question I might be able to help. The $18.00 marti will get you the info you need to know what the car came with. We all like pictures and as you do things take plenty of pictures so you know how it was originally. They are only original once after that it is just another redone car.

David

 
Welcome from North Carolina. I have a 73 Q code 4 speed Mach1 I ordered new so if you have a question I might be able to help. The $18.00 marti will get you the info you need to know what the car came with. We all like pictures and as you do things take plenty of pictures so you know how it was originally. They are only original once after that it is just another redone car.

David
Good to know. Unfortunately the car has already been repainted and I'll have to see if I can find any pics before that. I purchased the car from my brother who has had it for the last 15 years and only put 4K miles on it. I'm going to do what needs to be done to get her right. Very excited since this is my first real classic. And yes I know...those mats are already out of the car!!!

Mach 1.jpg

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Welcome. You seem to have well defined goals and expectations.

There are a few simple things that will help with power if you are looking for more and some that will help with durability. The 73 Q code is a decent engine, but the timing gears should be replaced as they are nylon coated and become brittle and break off. I don't know how much of the brittleness is caused by heat vs age, but I would make that one change a priority. The second item I suggest you research and address if the valves themselves. Because they are so large, Ford made them in 2 pieces and welded them together- they fail at an alarming rate and can destroy the pistons and the block. A good valve job with stainless 1 piece valves is a must. Some people recommend hardened seats to be installed in the exhaust side of the heads, I am not one of them, but it is an issue you should understand before you get head work done. IIRC Ford retarded the camshaft to improve emissions and a straight up non retarded timing set will improve power without hurting durability. The 4V exhaust manifolds do have a propensity for cracking. (One side more than the other-just can't remember which right now.)

Anyway, welcome to the site, share some pictures.

 
Welcome from West Texas!

Aw man - don't hate the mats... I bought a set for my buddy's Jeep after I flamed his dashboard. LOL

Good lookin' car! ::thumb::

 
Welcome. You seem to have well defined goals and expectations.

There are a few simple things that will help with power if you are looking for more and some that will help with durability. The 73 Q code is a decent engine, but the timing gears should be replaced as they are nylon coated and become brittle and break off. I don't know how much of the brittleness is caused by heat vs age, but I would make that one change a priority. The second item I suggest you research and address if the valves themselves. Because they are so large, Ford made them in 2 pieces and welded them together- they fail at an alarming rate and can destroy the pistons and the block. A good valve job with stainless 1 piece valves is a must. Some people recommend hardened seats to be installed in the exhaust side of the heads, I am not one of them, but it is an issue you should understand before you get head work done. IIRC Ford retarded the camshaft to improve emissions and a straight up non retarded timing set will improve power without hurting durability. The 4V exhaust manifolds do have a propensity for cracking. (One side more than the other-just can't remember which right now.)

Anyway, welcome to the site, share some pictures.
I hear your warning about the heads...but I was trying to take the approach of if everything is still in working order I wasn't going to get into the heads and motor until I have to. I will in fact be looking into another carb based on what I've heard/read about the 4300D's. With regards to timing, what is a good timing to shoot for at idle with the advanced vacuum blocked off? Like I said this whole checking and setting timing is new to me. I didn't even know what recurving the distributor meant? Sad to say...

 
Every engine is a little different. Total timing at 3000 rpm with everything hooked as as it will be when you drive should come in at around 35-36 degrees on an open chambered Cleveland.

Base timing is sort of dictated by the advance built into the distributor. I set base timing with a vacuum gauge initially to reach highest vacuum and easiest starting and then my goal is to back it off 1-2 degrees.

If you set base timing and have good driveability and a bit less total advance, your fine, if your advance goes too far, then your distributor may need a little tweaking.

If you just want a number, try between 10- and 12 degrees initially.

 
Hello, welcome from France.

It is possible that your timing set, if it's original, is the nylon type teeth, so if you have to change that, you can find aftermarket timing set that can be adjusted (multi keyway timing set), I guess it is for the Q code engine. For emission control the timing set has been adjusted 4 degrees retarded.

But here are so many great people and they know our Mustangs from the "front to the back" that could confirm this.

 
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Hello from Mississippi. Good ET for such a heavy car. There is definitely a following for those 9C1 Caprices. Your Mach 1 looks great! Your at the right place for advice, info, or just to shoot the breeze. Members here have everything from big block ground pounders, to weekend cruisers, and everything in between. Welcome aboard!

 
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