Carbon deposits from oil - how to remove?

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MotoArts

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'71 Sportsroof
'90 Mustang 7-Up 5.0 ragtop (sold after 20 years)
'66 Sunbeam Tiger Mk.IA
I acquired a few sets of used alloy valve covers recently. Has anybody had success with cleaning the baked on carbon from the insides of valve covers, oil pans, engine blocks or lifter valleys? Sure, I can use a wire brush or similar, but looking for non-mechanical means here.

Over the years, I've tried all kinds of the usual sauces... gasoline (of course), kerosene, toluene, 3M Stripe and Woodgrain remover (yeah, I have several vintage cans on the shelf LOL!), and even some paint flow additive.

The soft deposits sorta brush out, but still require a lot of mechanical agitating.

For the most part, none of the above worked very well.

I don't have any aircraft stripper to try. I'm thinking it's worked in the past, but can't remember.

EZ Off oven cleaner is next on the "to try" list.

I want them totally gack free before going into the bead blaster.

Any other ideas?

 
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EZ-Off Oven Cleaner HD (with lye) does not harm chrome and most metals. If any of your parts are aluminum, try it in an non-observable place first.

Have you tried lacquer thinner? It tends to work on most petroleum products fairly well with sitting or with elbow grease.

 
If you have access to a large ultrasonic cleaner that is your sure bet. I have a small one and it never ceases to amaze me now well they work. Carb parts come out like new.

 
You know what amazes me is a scotch-brite pad soaked in lacquer thinner (clean-up thinner at your local paint shop). It requires a small amount of scrubbing, but not very much. It cuts right thru grease and black deposits super fast.

You've gotta have a brute of a PVC glove to protect your hands, but a small plastic bin of thinner and a small scotch brite pad will clean most stuff really well & quickly. I finish up by switching to shop paper towels and wipe away all the remains. It's the last step I do before painting metal surfaces.

Anyway, I think it might work for you. if we are talking forged metal surfaces, it might not remove all discoloration, but it's worth a try.

Good luck.

Jay

 
On these particular valve covers, they still have the baffles in place. Both sets musta been high milers, because there is a lot of the baked on, paint like carbon on them. Goal was trying to "melt" the coal clinkers out from underneath of the baffles without removing the rivets.

I have an Explorer GT40 style lower intake for my 5.0 that is O-M-G crusty, too.

Heh, gotta be frugal with that doggone lacquer thinner nowadays. Even the gun wash grade must have plutonium infused moonbeam wonder juice mixed in it... the cost is outrageous... :)

 
Ultrasonic cleaner works great. However, when I did it at work, the toolroom guys cursed me for leaving the fluid dirty.

I have had great luck using carb cleaner and paint thinner. Use a can of carb cleaner to get everything loosened up. Then paint thinner to scrub, maybe even a little gasoline to rinse. Then back to the carb cleaner for the flush out. Even under those baffles, I can get pretty clean. Get various size pipe cleaners to help scrub in the baffle area.

 
Heh, gotta be frugal with that doggone lacquer thinner nowadays. Even the gun wash grade must have plutonium infused moonbeam wonder juice mixed in it... the cost is outrageous... :)
$45 for a 5gal bucket? it's not that bad...
My 5 gal can that I just finished had $19.95 on it.

For the same stuff.

Sure wish my paycheck increased at even half of that compound annual growth rate :D

I will try the above suggestions. Thanks, Gents!

 
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Be very careful if you try the EZ Off oven cleaner. If left on too long it eats/pits the aluminum. I found out the hard way on some aluminum trim. How about having a machine shop clean them, unless they are polished.

Chuck

 
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