Cleveland engine re-install

[Stock429]

I bought a 73 Mach 1 with no engine or trans. The car has most of the parts, missing grill, headlight assembly, left fender is dented, some floorpan rust. The people who had it took out the 351 to install a 460. They didn't know how and were stuck. They should come to this site for help. I installed a 429 in a six cylinder car, biggest problem was motor mounts. I sold that car, and starting this new project.

So I bought a 351 Cleveland engine and FMX trans, when I got the car, but from seperate sellers. The engine was in a dry garage and turned over. Right exhaust was cracked halfway and no motor mounts (sigh). The seller of the car had an intake to put a 4 bl carb on a 2V motor.

Later, I was at the junk yard looking for motor mounts, and spotted a 351C 2V in a station wagon. It was a 1974, but the exhaust was correct, and the motor mounts looked right. I yanked the motor for 110 dollars, and it was seized. But I used the exhaust manifold, motor mounts, and the iron rocker arm fulcrums.

My 351 2V had aluminum fulcrums, so the iron arms are a upgrade. I am going to take the valve cover and oilpan off the "good" Cleveland and see what it looks like.

I bought the intake, and will use it on the motor. It is an Offenhauser dual-port, for 2V use. It is a single plane , with 2 sets of runners, anyone ever use one? It will fit a Holley square bore 4 bl carb.

 

[OLE PONY]

It sounds like you will suceed in getting the 351C installed. Keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Stock429]

I put the FMX transmission on an engine stand yesterday. It was wrapped in plastic. I pulled the pan, to look for metal shavings. No metal, a bit of sediment, fluid was red. I replaced the filter, and put in a B&M drain plug kit. These old trannys are tough, I am going to put it in the car, fill it with type F, and see what happens.

 

[73vertproject]

Sounds like you're on the right track. Keep us posted on your progress.

I'm using an Edelbrock 4bbl intake on my 2V Cleveland heads, but haven't fired it up yet.

Doc

 

[Stock429]

I got the Offenhauser intake because it was there , and the price was right. I think the single plane intake will want to rev a bit more, I like that idea. I plan to swap in a Cobra-jet replacement cam, Lunati part no. 11101, to get those revs happening. The matching springs LUN73815, and lifters 71900, all from Lunati, and a Cloyes timing chain set, should wake it up a bit. I have a couple Holley carbs, a 600 CFM with annular boosters, and a big 850 CFM with four corner idle , and two metering blocks. I have the original carb, intake, and air cleaner that came with the motor, too.

 

[73vertproject]

Wow, sounds like a heck of a build. Post up a pick when you get a chance.

Doc

 

[Fordication]

Why are you going back with an FMX when you have so many other options. I have one in mine but its original.

 

[Stock429]

I am using the FMX, because I have it , and I want to get this car on the road, and not sit in the garage for years, like the 429 Mustang did ( my fault, not the cars). A good small block C-6 with some stall in the converter would be good, or I do have an AOD core, could be built up. The 9" rear has 3.50 gears , no tag, just the turn and count system.

 

[Stock429]

Well I got the cam, lifters, springs, etc, by mail order, and installed them. I used compressed air to hold the valves up while I changed the springs. Then I bolted on the tranny, and dropped it in the car. Next morning, an oil drip from the oil pan drain plug. The donor motor had an oilpan with no baffle, and very rusty, too. So E-bay has a seller with 351C pans for $39.95, and a slosh baffle. It is a nice heavy duty pan, fit well, painted up OK, good value. My original pan had a built in windage tray. Now the engine is back in to stay.

While I was waiting on the mail order parts, I replaced both rusty floor pans, gave the mig welder a workout.

 

[73vertproject]

Well I got the cam, lifters, springs, etc, by mail order, and installed them. I used compressed air to hold the valves up while I changed the springs. Then I bolted on the tranny, and dropped it in the car. Next morning, an oil drip from the oil pan drain plug. The donor motor had an oilpan with no baffle, and very rusty, too. So E-bay has a seller with 351C pans for $39.95, and a slosh baffle. It is a nice heavy duty pan, fit well, painted up OK, good value. My original pan had a built in windage tray. Now the engine is back in to stay.

While I was waiting on the mail order parts, I replaced both rusty floor pans, gave the mig welder a workout.

Nice work, 429!! Keep up with the posts!

 

[droptop73]

Keep up the good work.

Measure the location of the windage tray in the old oil pan and remove it for another project. Those are getting pretty scarce these days.

 

[73vertproject]

And post some pics when you get a chance, for crying out loud!

 

[Stock429]

I will save the windage tray.

The offenhauser dual-port single plane intake for 2V heads.



Those special motor mounts. I removed all lumps and bumps from the exhaust manifold, hoping to prevent cracking.

 

[73vertproject]

Wow, looks good Stock429. I especially appreciate the color of RTV sealant you chose.



Doc

 

[Stock429]

I just got the motor running. The Lunati 505 lift cam sounds good. I used the 600 cfm 4180 Holley carb, and filled the carb fuel bowl for quick start up. I had to repair the gas tank, and replace the fuel line before start-up. While I was under the car, I added 11 x 2 1/4 Police brakes to the rear. The Cleveland is re-installed, no rebuild just cam, springs, lifters, timing chain, 4 bl intake , 4180 Holley carb ( free), new oil pan, new rad, and while the oilpan was off, ARP 12 point nuts on the rod bolts.

The engine sounds good and has good oil pressure. I just ran the motor to break in the cam, all good so far. I used AMSOIL Z-rod oil, it is synthetic, but recommended for flat tappet. Now to install the exhaust system , and find the correct power steering hose.

 

[73vertproject]

Congratulations, Stock429! I know you must be feeling pretty good right now. Good job!

Doc

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I just got the motor running. The Lunati 505 lift cam sounds good. I used the 600 cfm 4180 Holley carb, and filled the carb fuel bowl for quick start up. I had to repair the gas tank, and replace the fuel line before start-up. While I was under the car, I added 11 x 2 1/4 Police brakes to the rear. The Cleveland is re-installed, no rebuild just cam, springs, lifters, timing chain, 4 bl intake , 4180 Holley carb ( free), new oil pan, new rad, and while the oilpan was off, ARP 12 point nuts on the rod bolts.

The engine sounds good and has good oil pressure. I just ran the motor to break in the cam, all good so far. I used AMSOIL Z-rod oil, it is synthetic, but recommended for flat tappet. Now to install the exhaust system , and find the correct power steering hose.

was upgrading to the arp rod nuts as easy and straight forward as I expect it was?

 

[Stock429]

I had to replace the oilpan due to the leak around the drain plug. While it was on the engine stand it was a simple task. Change them one at a time, roll engine, repeat, recheck torque, done. The exhaust is done, the main pipes are about 1 1/2 inches long, you just trim them where they meet the muffler. I got the kit with the Ford part numbers, and it fits really well, and is ready for the tips.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Thanks, I have a short block on the engine stand that actually looks pretty darn good. Was thinking of doing just that.