coil

[quizno]

I have a 73 mustang with a 351 Cleveland and have installed a flame thrower coil on it tonight and it wont start. the old coil was fine but was going try it. the only difference was my old coil was a 1.5 ohms and the new flame thrower was a 3 ohm. I now have put my old coil back on and it still wont start. coil checks good with my meter could I have burnt something up with the higher ohms coil????

 

[midlife]

Unlikely. Re-check your steps for installation for your old coil.

 

[quizno]

tripled checked...oh, and nice rack.lol

 

[judge]

Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

 

[quizno]

I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

 

[barnett468]

I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.

 

[midlife]

I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

That's not a valid test of voltage to the coil. Instead, get the car running and measure voltage at the + side of the coil. It should read a couple of volts below battery voltage (10.5-11.5V).

 

[will e]

I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.

Do this. It is a good test. Be aware that the engine won't shut off until you disconnect the wire. You new coil may have an 'internal' resistor. Your car came with an external resistor coil and a special wire that reduces the voltage.

Does it seem to try to start but as soon as it seems to catch it dies when you turn the key from 'start' to 'run'?

 

[quizno]

I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .

Are you still using points and condenser? Look for 12 volts on coils low voltage side. Starting volts come from starter solenoid. Running volts are reduced slightly and come from ignition switch.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.

no luck

I took out my points and installed a pertronix module awhile back .




I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

remove your positive wire from the coil and connect the coil directly to the positive post on the battery and try it.

do not leave it connected more than 5 minutes but i have left them connected for 30 minutes.

.

Do this. It is a good test. Be aware that the engine won't shut off until you disconnect the wire. You new coil may have an 'internal' resistor. Your car came with an external resistor coil and a special wire that reduces the voltage.

Does it seem to try to start but as soon as it seems to catch it dies when you turn the key from 'start' to 'run'?

just keeps turning over ....are we talking about hooking + side of the coil straight to the battery without the positive wire coming from the distributor connected to the coil?

 

[rocket366]

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

 

[barnett468]

.

That's not a valid test of voltage to the coil.

It's not intended to be.

.


.

I replaced my points and condenser awhile back .checked the coil voltage with key switch on and from ground to + side of coil reads 2 1/2 volts.....that's not right is it?

Remove the wire from the coil and check the voltage on it again.

.

 

[quizno]

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

thanks will check it out

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

thanks will check it out

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

thanks will do


thanks will do

 

[quizno]

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

thanks will check it out

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

thanks will check it out

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

thanks will do


thanks will do

tried it tonight with no luck....didn't one time act like it wanted to start. don't think the voltage regulator was damaged maybe?

 

[barnett468]

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

thanks will check it out

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

yep

+ side of coil to + bat ....neg side of coil normal hook up.

If it starts it will not shut off till you unhook the tempoary + wire to the bat.

this is just to c if it will start by running battery voltage to the coil + side bypassing the normal ign wire.

to check the normal + coil wire from ign switch for voltage you must disconnect it from the coil.

thanks will check it out

I have a feeling your electronic points eliminator module is bad.

good luck

Paul

thanks will do


thanks will do

tried it tonight with no luck....didn't one time act like it wanted to start. don't think the voltage regulator was damaged maybe?

did you disconnect the orig wire first like i said?

did you test for voltage on the orig wire with it disconnected like i said?

if you did my test properly, you have a bad coil and/or bad ignitor . . you can try the coil on another car to see if it is good . . you may have a bad ignition wire in addition.

.

 

[quizno]

thanks will do


thanks will do

tried it tonight with no luck....didn't one time act like it wanted to start. don't think the voltage regulator was damaged maybe?

did you disconnect the orig wire first like i said?

did you test for voltage on the orig wire with it disconnected like i said?

if you did my test properly, you have a bad coil and/or bad ignitor . . you can try the coil on another car to see if it is good . . you may have a bad ignition wire in addition.

.

I took off the wire from the + side of the coil and put a jumper straight from the + side of the coil to the + side of the battery....what should the voltage be on the + side coil wire when disconnected?

 

[judge]

Try to start it when you have the battery directly connected. That would put 12 volts on the coil. The only thing breaking it at point would be the side being tnterupted by the distributor timing device.

 

[barnett468]

I took off the wire from the + side of the coil and put a jumper straight from the + side of the coil to the + side of the battery....what should the voltage be on the + side coil wire when disconnected?

at least 7 but most likely 9 - 12

 

[ceheler]

If i am understanding correctly than and you have a pertronix ignitor then i would like to make sure that you are leaving both the RED and BLACK wires coming from the pertronix connected when doing the above test. The only red wire you should be removing is the one coming from the cars ignition system. You are essentially bypassing the cars ignition system and isolating the coil. If you still get nothing you can test the coil with the following:

you will need 2 jumper wires, a spark plug wire (shorter is better) a good plug and a battery (one out of the car would be best ) i personally use a riding lawn mower battery

1. Attach one jumper from the Positive terminal to the + side of the coil

2. Install the plug into the wire and the wire into the coil

3. Place the threads of the plug on the Negative terminal of the battery (must be touching) us another jumper if need be

4. Place the last jumper on the - side of the coil

5. touch the jumper that is attached to the - side of the coil to the negative terminal only for 5 - 8 seconds and then remove it

when you remove the jumper from the negative battery terminal the coil should cause a the spark plug to fire. If it does not than the coil is bad

Please let me know what ends up happening

 

[Don C]

The Pertronix module provides the same function electronically that the points provide mechanically, which is to provide a ground (as when the points are closed) that creates a magnetic field across the primary windings. The module then drops the ground (as when the points open), which causes the magnetic field to collapse across the secondary windings creating the high voltage pulse to the spark plugs.

You said that you used your meter to check the coil. Does your meter also have the dwell function? You can use the dwell meter to check whether or not the module is working, it should give readings that are comparable to points.

If you don't have a dwell meter you can use a voltmeter to see what's happening with the module. When the points are open (module not providing a ground) you should be able to measure around 12 volts on the negative side of the coil with the ignition switch on, with a digital voltmeter, red lead to the negative coil terminal and black lead to a good ground. An analog meter will read somewhat less because it slightly loads the circuit causing a voltage drop. With the points closed (module providing the ground) the voltage will be zero, as the current is being dissipated in the resistance wire and the coil as heat. With the engine running this voltage obviously fluctuates rapidly between zero and 12 volts. The average voltage reading will depend on the ratio of open to closed time for the points or module. You can crank the engine and watch for the voltage fluctuation. If the voltage stays on either zero or close to 12 volts the module is not working.