Coolant Overflowing!!

[jmcgill89]

Are there any specific kinds of gauges that people around this site use? Where are the most popular places to put them, and/or run the wiring?

Thanks,

Joe

Until the engine is up to temp it's building pressure. Once at operating temp, the whole system is under pressure this allows the fluid to rise to a higher temerature without flashing to steam. Borrow a thermostat tester that also can has the attatchments to pressurize your engine. DO NOT GO ABOVE THE STATED RADIATOR CAP PRESSURE!!! Let it sit for an hour and see if the system holds the pressure. Then do the same with the cap with that attatchment. Tells you everything you need to know.

 

[72HCODE]

first don't panic.

the coolant coming out of the radiator might just be the system balancing itself.

1 keep an eye on it for a while, if the overflow keeps coming after 4 days of driving and the radiator is half full then you have problems.

if you have a stock radiator the coolant level usually settles about 3-4" from the top, right were the first riffal is on the radiator body.

you do not want the radiator totally full.

Lets say there is a problem, a simple fix might be to replace the radiator cap. Now there are 2 kinds of radiator caps. Vented and non-vented. The stock cap is non-Vented and holds about 12-13psi. When you have an overflow bottle you want a vented cap. the reason is because a vented cap will allow exchange with the overflow bottle. a non-vented cap when it blows will just flow coolant out the drain.

now a cap can go bad and vent under 12-13psi, if that is the case then replacing the cap and refilling the radiator and the system will equalize itself.

this is a simple fix if the radiator keeps burping coolant.

to check the thermostat before you crack open the top hose. you can start the car warm it up and watch the temp gauge at idle. the temperature will rise until the thermostat kicks on, then the temperature will suddenly drop, then slowly rise to a level below where it was before the thermostat came on. this will indicate the thermostat is working and turning on as needed.

if the temperature keeps building to overheat then you know you have a problem.

before you do anything i would drive the car and when the engine is cold the next day open the radiator cap and take note of the coolant level, if every day it drops and 1/4 of the radiator is exposed, and you keep getting coolant out the overflow i would go ahead and replace the cap with a non-vented 12-13psi cap. refill the coolant and again allow the car to burp out what it does not need to equalize the system. drive it again and check when cold, after 2-3 days of driving the coolant level should hold and no more should come out.

if again the system keeps losing coolant and the thermostat is not kicking on according to the temp gauge then i would go ahead and replace the thermostat.

so go drive and keep checking the level when cold, watch your temp gauge from time to time chances are the system just wants to eqaulize do not add coolant anymore unless 1/2 the rad is empty or the temp gauge keeps going higher.

if there is a problem, replace the cap first, then go for the thermostat, if issues keep going then it could be more serious such as a clogged radiator, or water pump problems, or even sludge in the cooling system

 

[jmcgill89]

Thanks for the help!

I'm going to not be able to drive it for a couple of days, but I should be able to try to warm it up.

My cap is a vented cap, I know that. I'm going to try to go out and find a 13 psi non vented job.

I won't add any coolant or anything until I've followed your instructions.

first don't panic.

the coolant coming out of the radiator might just be the system balancing itself.

1 keep an eye on it for a while, if the overflow keeps coming after 4 days of driving and the radiator is half full then you have problems.

if you have a stock radiator the coolant level usually settles about 3-4" from the top, right were the first riffal is on the radiator body.

you do not want the radiator totally full.

Lets say there is a problem, a simple fix might be to replace the radiator cap. Now there are 2 kinds of radiator caps. Vented and non-vented. The stock cap is non-Vented and holds about 12-13psi. When you have an overflow bottle you want a vented cap. the reason is because a vented cap will allow exchange with the overflow bottle. a non-vented cap when it blows will just flow coolant out the drain.

now a cap can go bad and vent under 12-13psi, if that is the case then replacing the cap and refilling the radiator and the system will equalize itself.

this is a simple fix if the radiator keeps burping coolant.

to check the thermostat before you crack open the top hose. you can start the car warm it up and watch the temp gauge at idle. the temperature will rise until the thermostat kicks on, then the temperature will suddenly drop, then slowly rise to a level below where it was before the thermostat came on. this will indicate the thermostat is working and turning on as needed.

if the temperature keeps building to overheat then you know you have a problem.

before you do anything i would drive the car and when the engine is cold the next day open the radiator cap and take note of the coolant level, if every day it drops and 1/4 of the radiator is exposed, and you keep getting coolant out the overflow i would go ahead and replace the cap with a non-vented 12-13psi cap. refill the coolant and again allow the car to burp out what it does not need to equalize the system. drive it again and check when cold, after 2-3 days of driving the coolant level should hold and no more should come out.

if again the system keeps losing coolant and the thermostat is not kicking on according to the temp gauge then i would go ahead and replace the thermostat.

so go drive and keep checking the level when cold, watch your temp gauge from time to time chances are the system just wants to eqaulize do not add coolant anymore unless 1/2 the rad is empty or the temp gauge keeps going higher.

if there is a problem, replace the cap first, then go for the thermostat, if issues keep going then it could be more serious such as a clogged radiator, or water pump problems, or even sludge in the cooling system

 

[goodnigh]

Thanks for the help!

I'm going to not be able to drive it for a couple of days, but I should be able to try to warm it up.

My cap is a vented cap, I know that. I'm going to try to go out and find a 13 psi non vented job.

I won't add any coolant or anything until I've followed your instructions.

You have a vented radiator cap? Then your water is boiling :s

As mentioned elsewhere in this posting you need a Cleveland specific thermostat around 190/195 as I recall.

mike

 

[jmcgill89]

OK. Today, on the way home, I bought a new radiator cap, just because I didn't trust that old one.

I put the new cap on, and started the car up in my garage armed with my trusty infrared thermometer (I LOVE that thing). As the car warmed up running through the automatic choke routine, I noticed that the big hose going from the block to the upper radiator remained cold until the temperature of the motor (measured at the thermostat housing) got to about 190, then the hose got warm/hot quick. I take that to mean that my Thermostat is working properly.

At the same time, after about 2 minutes, the big hose on top was fully pressurized, and I couldn't squeeze it. This is a change from before when I could easily squeeze it even with the motor hot and running. The motor ran very smoothly, and warmed up quickly (it was a warm day here). The system held pressure for a good 1.5 hours and there was even some left when the motor completely cooled.

So, I think the cap was the big culprit here this time.

I have taken all the advice to heart, and will be adding a temperature gauge as soon as I can find an electronic one.

Thanks again to all the great folks for helping!

Thanks for the help!

I'm going to not be able to drive it for a couple of days, but I should be able to try to warm it up.

My cap is a vented cap, I know that. I'm going to try to go out and find a 13 psi non vented job.

I won't add any coolant or anything until I've followed your instructions.

You have a vented radiator cap? Then your water is boiling :s

As mentioned elsewhere in this posting you need a Cleveland specific thermostat around 190/195 as I recall.

mike

 

[goodnigh]

OK. Today, on the way home, I bought a new radiator cap, just because I didn't trust that old one.

I put the new cap on, and started the car up in my garage armed with my trusty infrared thermometer (I LOVE that thing).

I got one of those infrared/laser thermometers. It is a "must have"

for any garage. Love that thing. And they are very accurate.

mike