Dash lights / turn signal

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If your car foes not have AC you can remove the fresh air vent by removing the screw that holds the cable and three 7/16 nuts that hold the assembly in. This creates some more room to snake your arm in.

Have you removed the dashpad and cap? that creates better access from the top (just remove all the screws across the front that go straight up into the dashpad (I think it is about 7 or 8, 2 short screws on top behind the dash pad and then pull it forward to release the clips. It comes forward about an inch and a half then you lift it out.

It is possible depending on your arm size and flexibility to sometimes snake your arm in from the inner side of the steering wheel, reach straight up and turn your wrist back in, but you will get scraped up. I could do it that way 30 years ago when I was skinny as a rail, but not so much these days.

The front seat removes with 4 bolts-sometimes having it out of the way makes things a lot less difficult on your body.

 
If your car foes not have AC you can remove the fresh air vent by removing the screw that holds the cable and three 7/16 nuts that hold the assembly in. This creates some more room to snake your arm in.

Have you removed the dashpad and cap? that creates better access from the top (just remove all the screws across the front that go straight up into the dashpad (I think it is about 7 or 8, 2 short screws on top behind the dash pad and then pull it forward to release the clips. It comes forward about an inch and a half then you lift it out.

It is possible depending on your arm size and flexibility to sometimes snake your arm in from the inner side of the steering wheel, reach straight up and turn your wrist back in, but you will get scraped up. I could do it that way 30 years ago when I was skinny as a rail, but not so much these days.

The front seat removes with 4 bolts-sometimes having it out of the way makes things a lot less difficult on your body.
Jeff,

I do have AC so I think I will try to remove the dash pad and cap, I have taken all of the front screws out but I did not know there were two on top of the dash.

I will go that route this afternoon.

No way my arm is getting up through the inner side.

I read on one post that you could drop the steering column without too much trouble, not sure about that.

Thanks again

Dan

 
Got the gauge cluster out.

1. Removed dash pad

2. From the top I removed plastic AC / Heat duct (Plastic pipe)

3. I was able to reach my hand in from the top and get the speedo cable off

Big thanks to everyone who helped me out, really kept me going.

Dan

 
Keep us up to date on how it goes. We may have given guidance, but you kept after it.
I'm taking my gauge cluster into work tomorrow, my friends in Fleet maintenance have a tool called a power probe that can put power to the cluster.

I figure that way I will know if it's the cluster or something with the connector or wires in the car.

I took a pic of the plug and think the pin (#5) with two black wires going into it is the ground. That's the next point I'm going to check.

Dan

WP_000514.jpg

 
That's actually pin 14, and yes, two wire black is the ground.

 
That's actually pin 14, and yes, two wire black is the ground.
Pin 14?

I was just going by the number stamped on the plastic connector. I ordered a Chilton manual, Im looking forward to getting it.

 
My bad... Pin 5 is black/green (CVR input) for 1971-73. Most years, this wire is a single wire at the dash cluster, not a two-wire affair.

Pin 14 is the ground line.

 
OK,

Power meter to the back of the gauge.

5 Bulbs are not LED

They all work, some were in backwards.

Removed the blue caps.

going to order 5 LED's to get a complete set.

My plan is to get the led's and test all before replacing.

Dan

WP_000519.jpg

WP_000520.jpg

WP_000521.jpg

 
Hi,

Will almost any LED bulb with a T10 base work? I'm searching but can't find ones exactly like the ones I currently have.

Dan

 
I believe some of the LED's have a different number of lights inside which might give you a variation of light intensity if you mix them.

 
Hi guys

Worked on the cluster a little today.

Using the power probe i borrowed from work i can light every bulb in the cluster except the right turn signal.

The power probe displays the positive and ground sides and then i apply power to the + side the bulbs light up.

The issue i have is the left turn signal on the printed circuit is that both sides sho as a ground. I know this is a fairly new printed circuit.

Other news,

I connected the cluster up in the car and none of the warning lights work, same as before.

 
The turn signals work on the outside of the car (front and rear) but i cant get the dash bulb to light up. That's only the left side that does not work. Right side works perfect.

Dan

 
Ok

I will try that tomorrow, I did not use LEDs for the turn signal bulbs. I read they would not blink.

Dan

 
I did have similar problems with mine when I first bought the car. The circuit was in bad shape due to the clock having a meltdown. I fixed everything with wires and a soldering iron! If you want to "force" it to work, I'm your man. Hehe

 
I did have similar problems with mine when I first bought the car. The circuit was in bad shape due to the clock having a meltdown. I fixed everything with wires and a soldering iron! If you want to "force" it to work, I'm your man. Hehe
If I had my choice I would like to get the turn signal in the cluster working and remove the trouble lights and replace with a tach.

 
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