Dash lights / turn signal

[DanCampbell]

I did have similar problems with mine when I first bought the car. The circuit was in bad shape due to the clock having a meltdown. I fixed everything with wires and a soldering iron! If you want to "force" it to work, I'm your man. Hehe

Hey Jim,

Looks like the voltage regulator was not replaced, think that may be my trouble? Should I just order one and find out?

 

[JimNiki]

I can't imagine how the cluster voltage regulator can affect your specific problem. Having said that, I would change it anyway. I swapped mine for a solid state unit. After opening one up, it makes you wonder how it ever lasted this long. It only averages 6v for your gauges by constantly turning on and off.

 

[DanCampbell]

OK

Did some testing on the plug in the car.

1. The fuse is good, pulled it and put the Ohm meter on it 0 Ohms.

With the key turned on -

2. Stuck the black probe in the ground and tested the other connections,

Some of them read about 11.5 ohms but four on the opposite side of the ground read 0 ohms

I have no idea if that is my issue but I thought it was strange.

Dan

 

[midlife]

The input line to the CVR (constant voltage regulator) has a resistor wire in it, approximately 10 ohms. Any line you read for the gas, alternator, and oil lines will have either 10 ohms for the actual gauge or 15 ohms for the idiot light version.

Turn signals, high beam lights, and dash lights should read 1 ohm or less.

 

[DanCampbell]

The input line to the CVR (constant voltage regulator) has a resistor wire in it, approximately 10 ohms. Any line you read for the gas, alternator, and oil lines will have either 10 ohms for the actual gauge or 15 ohms for the idiot light version.

Turn signals, high beam lights, and dash lights should read 1 ohm or less.

Hey Midlife,

I tested the fuse and ground with the Ohms setting but everything else I was using the DCv setting.

Not sure I really understand how this works, I am testing the plug in the car (With gauges out) to see if the plug is getting power. I thought all prongs on that plug should be hot except the black one.

I keep thinking this should be pretty simple, L turn signal and idiot lights don't work, but it's turning out to be pretty tricky.

Thanks for your help.

Dan

 

[JimNiki]

Is the right blinker pin giving voltage?

If so, then the cluster is not at fault, we need to trace further back to see why no power is getting to that pin.

You may have to follow it to the steering column.

It could be something simple like a cut wire, etc... you'll get there.

 

[DanCampbell]

Is the right blinker pin giving voltage?

If so, then the cluster is not at fault, we need to trace further back to see why no power is getting to that pin.

You may have to follow it to the steering column.

It could be something simple like a cut wire, etc... you'll get there.

Hi Jim,

I'm not sure which one is the blinker pin, maybe I can figure it out by looking at the printed circuit.

I will take a look.

Thanks

Dan

 

[midlife]

The input line to the CVR (constant voltage regulator) has a resistor wire in it, approximately 10 ohms. Any line you read for the gas, alternator, and oil lines will have either 10 ohms for the actual gauge or 15 ohms for the idiot light version.

Turn signals, high beam lights, and dash lights should read 1 ohm or less.

Hey Midlife,

I tested the fuse and ground with the Ohms setting but everything else I was using the DCv setting.

Not sure I really understand how this works, I am testing the plug in the car (With gauges out) to see if the plug is getting power. I thought all prongs on that plug should be hot except the black one.

I keep thinking this should be pretty simple, L turn signal and idiot lights don't work, but it's turning out to be pretty tricky.

Thanks for your help.

Dan

In your earlier post, you said you measured 11.5 ohms...but now you say 11.5 volts dc (which is A-OK).

What do you mean by 4 on the opposite side of ground? Can you provide wire colors?

Idiot lights won't work unless the key is in the RUN position. Don't put the key in RUN position with the coil hooked up, else you'll burn up the points.

 

[DanCampbell]

The input line to the CVR (constant voltage regulator) has a resistor wire in it, approximately 10 ohms. Any line you read for the gas, alternator, and oil lines will have either 10 ohms for the actual gauge or 15 ohms for the idiot light version.

Turn signals, high beam lights, and dash lights should read 1 ohm or less.

Hey Midlife,

I tested the fuse and ground with the Ohms setting but everything else I was using the DCv setting.

Not sure I really understand how this works, I am testing the plug in the car (With gauges out) to see if the plug is getting power. I thought all prongs on that plug should be hot except the black one.

I keep thinking this should be pretty simple, L turn signal and idiot lights don't work, but it's turning out to be pretty tricky.

Thanks for your help.

Dan

In your earlier post, you said you measured 11.5 ohms...but now you say 11.5 volts dc (which is A-OK).

What do you mean by 4 on the opposite side of ground? Can you provide wire colors?

Idiot lights won't work unless the key is in the RUN position. Don't put the key in RUN position with the coil hooked up, else you'll burn up the points.

Midlife,

Sorry about that, I am still learning to use a Multimeter.

I had the setting on Ohms when testing the pin with two black wires going into it.

I placed the black probe on the pin in the connector and the red one on a bolt under the dash - I got a reading of 0 Ohms

Next I pulled the fuse and got 0 Ohms

Then I switched the meter to DCv and turned the key to the run position and with the black probe on the ground pin I started placing the red probe on the other pins one by one.

I attached two pics, in one photo I marked the ground, in the other I marked the pins that did not show power with the key in the Run position.

I have a Pertronix ignition in the distributor, I hope I'm not messing that up during testing. (I hate points)

Thanks for taking a look, if you would like the wire colors I will take a pic tonight.

Dan

 

[midlife]

OK...I see the problem. Pin 5 is the CVR input, and not the ground. Ground is pin 14.

The pins on the other side of Pin 5 are Pins 10 (green/yellow - courtesy lights), Pin 11 (purple/white - brakes), Pin 12 (red/white - temperature), pin 13 (red/yellow - brake lamp power).

When the dash cluster connector is disconnected, you should see 12Volts when the key is on ACC. If you measure resistance on Pin 5, there's no telling what value you get, as that circuit is not really connected to the ground point except through the battery. Measure the resistance on Pin 14 to chassis ground, and you should get something very close to 0 ohms.

 

[DanCampbell]

OK...I see the problem. Pin 5 is the CVR input, and not the ground. Ground is pin 14.

The pins on the other side of Pin 5 are Pins 10 (green/yellow - courtesy lights), Pin 11 (purple/white - brakes), Pin 12 (red/white - temperature), pin 13 (red/yellow - brake lamp power).

When the dash cluster connector is disconnected, you should see 12Volts when the key is on ACC. If you measure resistance on Pin 5, there's no telling what value you get, as that circuit is not really connected to the ground point except through the battery. Measure the resistance on Pin 14 to chassis ground, and you should get something very close to 0 ohms.

Did you know those colors off the top of your head?

I will check the voltage of pin 5 and the resistance on pin 14.

If you have any thoughts on checking the printed circuit please let me know. It's new, the PO bought it to fix the same issue we are chasing down now.

Thanks a lot.

Dan

 

[JimNiki]

logic tells me then that the circuit board may be ok. Truthfully, if it was me, I'd just check to see if I've got voltage to the pin for the blinker in question. If not, then you follow the blinker to the blinker switch. I always try to keep it simple by following the process of elimination.

 

[DanCampbell]

logic tells me then that the circuit board may be ok. Truthfully, if it was me, I'd just check to see if I've got voltage to the pin for the blinker in question. If not, then you follow the blinker to the blinker switch. I always try to keep it simple by following the process of elimination.

Sounds good Jim,

I would be moving faster if it were not 100+ deg outside, I need a good fan for my garage.

I will update you guys tonight or this weekend.

Dan

 

[JimNiki]

Dan, now you're just teasing me! I'm in my house with the central heating on, The Mrs is knitting by the gas log fire and I'm typing this with a little 2000w heater at my feet with a neck warmer and a wooly hat on!

Oh, how I wish for some warm weather... good luck and cheers.

 

[DanCampbell]

Dan, now you're just teasing me! I'm in my house with the central heating on, The Mrs is knitting by the gas log fire and I'm typing this with a little 2000w heater at my feet with a neck warmer and a wooly hat on!

Oh, how I wish for some warm weather... good luck and cheers.

Yea,

It's like 120F where you are, I hope the AC is working.

Dan

 

[midlife]

Did you know those colors off the top of your head?

I will check the voltage of pin 5 and the resistance on pin 14.

If you have any thoughts on checking the printed circuit please let me know. It's new, the PO bought it to fix the same issue we are chasing down now.

Thanks a lot.

Dan

Yes, I know the colors off the top of my head; I usually know the order of the wires on the connector as well. Sad, but true...

 

[DanCampbell]

Did you know those colors off the top of your head?

I will check the voltage of pin 5 and the resistance on pin 14.

If you have any thoughts on checking the printed circuit please let me know. It's new, the PO bought it to fix the same issue we are chasing down now.

Thanks a lot.

Dan

Yes, I know the colors off the top of my head; I usually know the order of the wires on the connector as well. Sad, but true...

OK,

Pin wire colors and readings. With key turned to ACC. (X = no wire)

1. X

2. X

3. White

4. Green/White

5. 2 Black Wires (11v)

6. Yellow

7. X

8. X

9. Red/White

10. Blue

11. Green/Black

12. X

13. X

14. Black (With key off and meter set to Ohms - 0 ohms)

15. 2 Red Wires

16. 2 Wires Pink and Red

17. Purple

18. 2 Wires Green and Yellow (11v)

 

[midlife]

Did you know those colors off the top of your head?

I will check the voltage of pin 5 and the resistance on pin 14.

If you have any thoughts on checking the printed circuit please let me know. It's new, the PO bought it to fix the same issue we are chasing down now.

Thanks a lot.

Dan

Yes, I know the colors off the top of my head; I usually know the order of the wires on the connector as well. Sad, but true...

OK,

Pin wire colors and readings. With key turned to ACC. (X = no wire)

1. X

2. X

3. White

4. Green/White

5. 2 Black Wires (11v)

6. Yellow

7. X

8. X

9. Red/White

10. Blue

11. Green/Black

12. X

13. X

14. Black (With key off and meter set to Ohms - 0 ohms)

15. 2 Red Wires

16. 2 Wires Pink and Red

17. Purple

18. 2 Wires Green and Yellow (11v)

Well, you got the numbering wrong...sorry 'bout that. Your voltages look right, although pin 5 will be below 10V when it is hooked up to something.

Here's the proper list. (Pin number, wire color, wire number, function)

3 white/blue 2 LH front turn

4 green/white 3 RH front turn

5 black/green 60 cvr power

6 yellow/white 29 fuel sending line

9 white/red 31 oil pressure

10 green/yellow 54 courtesy lamps

11 purple/white 977 dual brake warning lamp

12 red/white 39 temp sending unit

13 red/yellow 640 lamp power

14 black 57 ground

17 green/black 12 high beam lamp

18 blue/red 19 dash lamps

 

[DanCampbell]

Do you think the plug is ok?

Should I be looking at the printed circuit?

 

[midlife]

Do you think the plug is ok?

Should I be looking at the printed circuit?

Normally, I don't suspect the plug; the circuit card, the turn signal switch, and hacked wires are usually suspicious.