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Declas, stripes, hood template for painting

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Ya that’s pretty much what I did too. Between that and all the other info posted by other members, I kinda averaged it all out I guess you could say.

Anyway I’m sure you will have enough information for the painter and hopefully it turns out how you want it. Good luck with it!

 
My two cents.

I have been told by several members that the available templates are not correct. The gap between the outside line and inside fill is wrong and also the radius on the corners is wrong.

The black out was intended to be going back straight but you have to consider usually 2 min. in a work station did not allow them to be to accurate, no two alike. 

I did a rub off of my all original car and he tried to get the suppliers to change and he was told that no they would not change that people bought what they had so why change. 

He got one cut by someone to the layout I supplied.

I do go to pick the car up from the MOM Mustang Owner's Museum this weekend. I thought I loaned for a year but just 6 months and they have a car already booked for my spot. 

So I can do a rub off of the front end of the hood next week and send. 

BTW being licensed by Ford does not mean it is correct in any manner. You only need a license if it has the Ford Logo, or is trademarked by Ford. I do not know that they trademarked the hood paint or not.

Also lots forget that the rear underside of the hood was blacked out also to hide the ugly. Here is pic of my original car and the back side of another original hood. 

I should do a detail photo and measurement of the hood and post this is always a sore spot. You cannot really find a paint that yields the finish and look of the original today. 

Don't forget at each tail light there is a black out area also. The yellow car is original paint also with Decor Group but same as Mach 1.

















 
As mentioned 2 minutes isn't much time. Great info from everyone. It seems that all the info we have is from everyone that has an original paint job and it seems that no two are alike. The big question, does any know what the exact measurements are that came from the factory. It would seem that there has to be some specs out there in Ford archives or somewhere. If we could come up with those then the stencil manufacturers would have to make corrections.

 
I had my brother the body man Help me do my hood. He did not use the template. He didn't want to take the chance of the paint bleeding under template tape. So he freehand taped it with fine line.  We used the measurements for the 429 mega site. We did go a half inch less on the width. Just thought it looked better.

IMG_1990.JPG

IMG_2004.JPG

IMG_2006.JPG

 
As mentioned 2 minutes isn't much time. Great info from everyone.  It seems that all the info we have is from everyone that has an original paint job and it seems that no two are alike.  The big question, does any know what the exact measurements are that came from the factory.  It would seem that there has to be some specs out there in Ford archives or somewhere.  If we could come up with those then the stencil manufacturers would have to make corrections.
Ford did not have any published dimensions. Even the Osborne reprints of the Ford assembly instructions do not show any. 

The repo people do not car if they are right or wrong just want to take your money. I also have two original hoods in storage with original Factory Paint on them.

 
I think Graphics Express supposedly took their template from an original 71 429 hood. Was a former member on this site, but I won’t mention any names. I could be wrong too, it might have been Phoenix Graphics, I can’t remember. But one of them measured an original hood blackout.

 
jpaz,

Another headache area that causes grief for 71-73 owners. As David posted, the assembly line is a fast-paced world where line workers only had mere seconds to perform their assigned job. The paint room was lucky if they even had two minutes to place a multi-piece stencil and paint before the next piece came through. In that type of environment, it was inevitable that variances were going to happen. As I have posted before, Ford along with the other manufacturers was in the business of mass-producing vehicles, not show cars. No laser-guided robotics making perfect precision measurements in those days.  Not much thought was given as to what someone might find in or on one of these vehicles 50 + years later!

Anyone I have talked to that has an original two-tone painted hood has noticed off-center measurements to the rear of the hood.

I was with a group of dealers that toured Atlanta assembly a few years ago and it was definitely an eye-opener. Things were so fast-paced that it reminded me of the old I Love Lucy episode where they are working on the candy line that is constantly speeding up. (And our younger members are probably thinking...... Lucy who)?!

Graphic Express is the stripe/decal dealer that is supposed to have the most correct hood stencil. Kit Sullivan was a forum member here and is an original owner of a J code Mach 1. Graphic Express photographed and measured the blackout on his hood and the template they sell is a product of those measurements.  For some reason, the picture they use to illustrate the hood accent is a stock picture that I have noticed a lot of the other decal and stripe vendors use and is not the correct look. Don't know why they didn't use one of the pictures they took of Kit's hood. They probably figured they didn't need my permission on which picture to use! 

https://www.graphic-express.com/ford-motor-co/ford-paint-stencils/1971-73-mustang-mach-1-nasa-naca-hood-paint-stencil-kit.html

They show in stock and on sale!

 
If no two were alike, determining what is "right" or "wrong" is kinda pointless.
It's more the shape of the blackout, not necessarily the side to side variation that is important. If they are too far back, the color line goes over the leading edge of the scoop strake, which is so wrong from any design standpoint that you wonder just how drunk the painter was. I've seen 9 wrong hoods to one correct one, and they stick out like a sore thumb to me.

 
One of the members stated they were afraid of paint bleed if they used the template. If you spray clear on first then the black out that prevents the bleed. Also you should keep a rubber roller to go over the tape just before you shoot the paint. 

I think I might order one of the templates and lay on the three originals I have to settle the argument of what is right shape. We all know it should be centered left to right and will be a little ridiculous to put off center on purpose. The position front to rear and the radius used and the width of the outer band and the space from the band to the black out is what needs to be correct.

According to the member I sent the rub off to the template he ordered was not correct by no means and when he contacted them they would not correct it.

 
One of the members stated they were afraid of paint bleed if they used the template. If you spray clear on first then the black out that prevents the bleed. Also you should keep a rubber roller to go over the tape just before you shoot the paint. 

I think I might order one of the templates and lay on the three originals I have to settle the argument of what is right shape. We all know it should be centered left to right and will be a little ridiculous to put off center on purpose. The position front to rear and the radius used and the width of the outer band and the space from the band to the black out is what needs to be correct.

According to the member I sent the rub off to the template he ordered was not correct by no means and when he contacted them they would not correct it.
" Spray clear on first " Prevents bleed??

 
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