Dirty Valves

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ccijwright

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2011
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Location
Fredericksburg, VA
My Car
1996 Cobra Convert
1973 Mach 1
Hey everyone,

I took my intake manifold off today to fix a oil leak out and when I looked into the heads I notices the valves where coated with carbon. Is there a way to clean them when the manifold is off, or do I just do the old "Seafoam" in the vacuum port trick when everything is buttoned up?

 
A cheap easy way to clean valves is with simple water...Water injection been used for a long time in military prop planes and some race cars and rv's...while it is runing..Have some one keep the car alive while you used a water bottle set on mist...and mist a bit of water into your carb while it is runing...It will try and die a little..Reason why you need some one keeping the car alive..And is safe long as you dont poor a ton down it and hydro lock it...water evaporates and steam cleans valves and boost compression....Water injection was used like alcohal to boost a motors power too..And gets benifits from the evap...Old school way..But it mite save you from having to take it apart..and it does work.

 
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IMO...

Depends on how bad the oil funk on the stems is.

Water will clean 'em inside the combustion chamber, and it does very well. May work on the stems, but there's no heat there (compared to the chamber) to do as good of a job.

If they're really crusty with sludge on the intake side, I may not recommend "cleaning" them while running with anything... Seafoam, water, etc. When the clinkers fall off, there's a chance they may get smashed in the valve seat/head interface, sticking the valve open a wee bit, causing compression loss and potentially burning it in the long run. Had a similar experience with a motorcycle head a while back, ended up having to behead it anyhow and clean 'em properly (it ran great till I "fixed" it).

The sludge on the intakes is caused by bad seals/guides. You may be inadvertently causing another problem, since they may need resealed anyhow.

It's a damned if ya do, damned if ya don't deal. Again, depending on the severity, I'd err on the safe side...

 
Personally, I agree 100% on the water in the induction system while the engine is running.

In the late seventies, gas was getting worse and there were no readily-available chemicals like today to do an upper intake decarbonization, except for GM "top cylinder cleaner".

I installed Edelbrock's "Vara-Jection" water injection system on my stock 429 CJ and it worked awesome. It allowed me to keep full advance and use the crap gas available then with no pinging or other issues. That system required constant refills of water (and a tiny bit of alcahol) and near-constant fiddling around with the keep working properly, but it served me well for many years.

Try this:

( as always...user beware. Any procedure I offer is under the assumption that the user has fair mechanical knowledge and skills. Don't do it if you are unsure)

1) get about 8-16 oz of whatever intake cleaner you want to use.( Seafoam is popular, as is ATF with old-school guys...I think ain old water is best)

2) get about 3-foot length of tinyest vacuum hose you can find.

3) put end of this hose in bottle of cleaner, to the bottom.

4) remove PCV valve from the hose feeding in carb base.

5) place other end of small hose from cleaner bottle loosely into end of open end of PCV hose. You DO NOT want a tight seal between these two hoses. Air leaking into the system as the engine is running is necessary for the procedurd to work.

6) start your engine. If it stalls out within a few seconds you have too much fluid flowing into the system...increase the size of the "air leak" until it will idle. Its tricky to get this part right, but you will get it eventually.

7) once it is idling, increase RPM to about 1200-1500 slowly using idle screw.

8) let all of the cleaner be drawn into the engine.

9) a tiny bit of constant white vapor from the exhaust is typical. Large billowing clouds of smoke show indicate that you are putting the cleaner in far too fast. Water produces a little vapor, Seafoam and especially ATF produce much more smoke.

If you get regular, rythmic "puffs" of smoke then you may have some worn rings or a valve guide issue.

10) when cleaner is done, let engine continue to run about 3 minutes to help excise any remaining cleaner in engine.

11) adjust idle back to normal

12) reinstall PCV as normal and you are done.

The air leak helps to atomize the water, allowing a larger volume of water to be administered, cleaning better.

Be advised, introducing ANY liquid into your engine in too great a volume can and will lead to "hydraulic lock". Fluids cannot be compressed and this can lead to catastrophic failure and damage to an engine, so...

Don't attempt it if you are unsure of your mechanical abilities.

 
Personally, I agree 100% on the water in the induction system while the engine is running.

In the late seventies, gas was getting worse and there were no readily-available chemicals like today to do an upper intake decarbonization, except for GM "top cylinder cleaner".

I installed Edelbrock's "Vara-Jection" water injection system on my stock 429 CJ and it worked awesome. It allowed me to keep full advance and use the crap gas available then with no pinging or other issues. That system required constant refills of water (and a tiny bit of alcahol) and near-constant fiddling around with the keep working properly, but it served me well for many years.
That is cool Kit...I always thought about putting a water injection some day instead of alcohal..Or like you did..just a tiny bit added to the mix...I was reading a old artical on how one of the Porshe race drivers made his own water injection system with a air cleaner and a water bottle mister nossil..lol....His system was quickly banned the next year ...And i read were a guy in a little 80's escort with water injection and could run really high compression...I think it was 9 or 8 to 1...and able to pull like 60 mpg out of it long as he was easy on the gas peddle....Lots of benifits and im sure lots of down sides when dealing with it on a daily basis.

 
If anyone is interested, I have professional applicator tools available that will allow you to easily meter any cleaning chemical of your choice into your engine.

I also have my own formula of special intake-cleaning chemical to go with it.

If anyone is interested, PM me.

 

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