Distributor and Ignition Info Thread

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The beauty of the Duraspark is that it's dead-stone simple, reliable and accurate. You can have replacement parts for it from any auto parts store within a day, if not in stock. The MSD 6AL box is just as reliable and any time I've had one go bad (twice in 21 years, both because of alternator over-voltage issues) it costs about $40 to get it fixed.

You can tweak the advance curve in about 10 minutes with a 925D kit from Mr Gasket.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Mr.+Gasket/720/925D/10002/-1

http://www.reincarnation-automotive.com/Duraspark_distributor_recurve_instructions_index.html

The Mallory Unilite is notorious for smoking the Unilite modules, which IIRC is about $100 to replace.

Pertronix is mainstream and an accepted product, but I still won't run them since the D-spark/MSD combo just works so well without issue, and they have a reputation for being "unreliable". Ask just about any Pertronix owner what they have in the trunk - 99% will answer "a set of points, just in case".

 
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I still run points in my '72 with no problems at all. If you want to get them working right, forget about setting the gap and check them with a dwell meter and remote start switch. The gap thing only works if the cam lobes are not worn, and the dwell angle is what is directly effecting the ignition system, anyway. (You set the gap to get a desired dwell angle, not the other way around.)

 
We got Pertronix billet distributors with Ignitor II's for both the Mack 1 and the coupe. So far, no problems on the Mach 1!

 
I'm going to go with a Duraspark/MSD box setup. I've been talking with Hemikiller via PM about it.

 
The things i hate about the MSD: ( i had a box installed on my car.)

1) the huge box that you have to make room for.

2) having to use a tach adapter if you have a OEM tach gauge with the MSD box.

3) the look of extra boxes and wires all over the inside of the engine bay.

things i hate about the PI or PII:

1) wondering when its going to fail.

2) cursing when it fails.

3) having an extra wire dangling out of the distributor.

things i hate about the PIII:

1) same as PI and PII

2) the OEM Tach will not work with it.

Things i hate about points:

1) cheap ones that drift like crazy.

2) trying to find a good set of them today is like impossible.

3) having to keep a set in the trunk just in case your PI or PII takes a dump.

they need to just make a points replacement that works like points has one wire out of the distributor like points and won't drift at all and does not use a magnetic sleeve for signal pick up. its almost 2011 make it happen somebody, :cool:

 
The things i hate about the MSD: ( i had a box installed on my car.)

1) the huge box that you have to make room for.

2) having to use a tach adapter if you have a OEM tach gauge with the MSD box.

3) the look of extra boxes and wires all over the inside of the engine bay.
Click to expand...
That's why you run all the wires under the battery tray next to the main harness. Agree on the other two points though...

http://www.7173mustangs.com/xthreads_attach.php/116_1291609227_460f917f/72e5c3248355ddbd40a24e3250f6448f/DSCF1437.JPG

 
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see that is something i do not understand, MSD could redesign that box much smaller and integrate the Tach adapter into the case as a module. No way to cut it that msd box is just huge by today's standards. Plus I had a really old one that didn't have the rev limiter. I didn't like having to intergrate it into my harness either.

 
I can't afford to do the Duraspark conversion yet, so for the time being I'm going to get a generic stock style points based distributor from the parts store. I can get a Cardone single point with vacuum advance for $40. Plus I already bought new plugs, wires and a coil that have just been sitting since I couldn't get my old Accel to work. I just want to get it running so I can finish going through some other stuff.

Anyone have any tips for installing it? I've never done it before and I'm worried about messing up the timing.

 
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well before 5 years ago i never even saw a distributor in my life.

its pretty easy to install.

i replaced my distributor with a new rebuilt one but its the same idea.

you have 2 ways of installing it. the lazy way and the right way, both work.

the lazy way involves a remote starter, the right way is putting a breaker bar on the crank.

take the new distributor put the cap on it and mark the center of plug #1 on the body of the distributor. use a magic marker you just need to see the mark so you can rotate the distributor with the rotor on it so it points to the mark for plug #1.

disconnect the coil.

next remove spark plug #1.

put your finger over the hole. now using either a remote start or a breaker bar rotate the engine until you feel pressure build up on your finger in the plug hole. Go SLOW the minute you feel pressure take your finger out( do not stick your pinky in the hole, just cover the hole with your thumb.) and look at the harmonic balancer. the pressure on your finger means your on the compression stroke. so you want to get to TDC on the compression stroke, when your at TDC on the balancer. usually 0 degrees on the timing numbers. then you install the distributor with the rotor pointed at #1 on the mark you made.

now here is the difference between the lazy and the right way. using the starter its VERY hard to get the crank to stop EXACTLY where you want it. so you may be just off TDC in either direction, that may translate into being 1 tooth off where you would like to be, this becomes an issue if you have an A/C car because you may not have enough room to fully turn the distributor to where you want it before hitting the vacuum advance against the A/C compressor. so be prepared to pull the distributor and index it one tooth if you miss a little. then you are going to have to blip the engine over a little bit because the oil pump shaft is going to interfere with getting the distributor all the way in.

If you blip the starter with the remote start , due to the heli gears the distributor will be drawn down and its possible you may be a tooth off from where you want to be, you want to check it, but using the starter method means you have to go 2 revolutions of the crank to get back to TDC on the compression stroke and its very hard to get the starter to stop exactly where you want it. now this method might jam the pump shaft against the distributor a there is a slight chance of something REALLY bad happening and you having to replace the oil pump or shaft.

with a breaker bar on the engine you could go back and forth exactly and stop just where you want it.

i've done it both ways. the starter method is like trial and error the breaker method is dead on. you just need to rock the motor a little to get that oil pump shaft to mate into the distributor.

personally after doing both ways, i would jack the car and use a breaker bar on the crank shaft bolt, better for piece of mind.

that is it the distributor is in and seated. Now you setup your timing light and play around with the distributor until the engine starts. once its running lower the idle rpms to under 600. you want to make sure the mechanical advance is not engaged, and you want to make sure your vacuum advance is disconnected and the port is plugged.

now you set the base timing with as low idle rpms as possible. you may have to lower or raise the rpms to just keep the engine running barely. moving the timing around will effect the idle rpms.

once its confirmed where you want it. lock down the distributor. set the Idle rpms back up to the correct level you want and finish any other tuning you need. if you set 10 degrees at 500rpms and then later you set the idle to 650rpm and double check the timing you may see it reading higher then 10, this is because your mechanical advance is kicking in. depending on the distributor curve this can be higher so just ignore it that is why you set the timing with a very low idle speed to make sure the mechanical is not on at the minimal level

 
next remove spark plug #1.

put your finger over the hole. now using either a remote start or a breaker bar rotate the engine until you feel pressure build up on your finger in the plug hole. Go SLOW the minute you feel pressure take your finger out( do not stick your pinky in the hole, just cover the hole with your thumb.) and look at the harmonic balancer. the pressure on your finger means your on the compression stroke. so you want to get to TDC on the compression stroke, when your at TDC on the balancer. usually 0 degrees on the timing numbers. then you install the distributor with the rotor pointed at #1 on the mark you made.

Like he said be smart while doing this. I from experience learned the hard way. Long story short young in the military, truck broke down. Called my uncle in Tn advised me to do the steps above. Easy enough. Pulled the plug covered the hole, had some one spin it over and about sucked my thumb down the hole. But can be done safely just take your time.

 
Another way to find TDC is to take a piece of somewhat rigid plastic piece that will fit into the spark plughole and against the top of the piston. Turn the engine over with the breaker bar until the piston stops moving up the cylinder. Do not use a screwdriver or any other piece of metal instead of the plastic. You could damage the piston or head.

 
B, did you get it running?
Click to expand...
Got it close. Still need to find TDC. It's hard not having much time to work on it.

 
I picked up a duraspark distributor at the u pull it thinking it was a 302. After researching it on the net I'm not sure. The tag reads:

139

D8AE

12127

JA

8C 14

So is this a 351w or a 302 dizzy? Thanks.

 

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