DIY front end align anyone done theirs ?

[Kermit 460]

I know my front end is out a little.Don't have anyone local I trust & not willing to go to a national chain shop to let some kid work on my car.I have replaced sloppy parts and coil springs.I won't be doing any highway driving just quick squirts around town.I figured expecting low mileage,I could get it pretty good myself.Wondering if any one has done it & has any advice about working with the eccentrics? Thanks for any help in advance,

Eric

 

[Don C]

Here's an article from Hot Rod magazine:

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/hrdp_0411_wheel_alignment_guide/viewall.html

 

[Go Time]

Its easy enough to set toe in if you want to do that, This is the way I was taught with a couple of additions from some race car crews. I would scribe the front tire in the center, if the tire has a flat spot that goes all the way around. Lift the tire off the ground and take a piece of wood lay it on the ground about 1/2 inch in front of the tread take a screwdriver or scribe and scribe the tire in the center while turning it. There is your centerline, repeat on the other tire. put it back on the the suspension and measure toe front of tire, back of tire about 1/2 way up. You will want some toe in, consult a shop manual i'm thinking 1/8-1/4 ( from memory) toe in should be about right, usually an 1/8th. Some people might measure the tread and thats ok but some tread may not be exactly true. Others may use the rim itself, I never care for this method because of having to bend the tape measure or use the width of the tape body,just a little too easy to get it off and you are really trying to get it right on the money thats why I like to scribe the tire. Now lets talk about getting the steering wheel strait. This is a method I picked up from a local race car crew. Take some jack stands and set them up one at the back of the car and one at the front. Put some string on the jack stands that runs along the length of the car. move the string close to the side of the car so it barely touches the tires in back about 1/2 way up the tire from the ground.This is your strait down the highway line make sure it barely touches the front and back of the rear tire evenly. you may have to bring it out an equal distance from the rear tire say 1/8th to 1/4 inch. but make sure its an equal distance from the string from the front to back of the rear tire. The string heads to the front of the car. if you line up the front tires the same way you should be close to strait down the highway strait. now check your steering wheel and see if its centered. Don't ask me why I wrote this long description, I usually don't post much I was just reading this and thought what the heck he might get something out of this. If it helps great, If not well I cant be accused of not posting much after this novel.

 

[OMS]

Have used the string accross the rear tire to the front to get them close on toe

Use a square on the floor for camber

The eccentric moves the lower arm in / out to adjust the camber.

 

[dexleo2]

see if you can find someone who races cars and ask to borrow their caster/camber gauge and toe plates. I race dirt track and use my stuff to get mine close enough so my 41 mile drive to town is not a nail biter to the only guy I know who can align the older stuff. When I set mine with the caster/camber gauge and toe plates its pretty dang close to what the factory specs I set in my shop.

 

[droptop73]

You can use a level, straight edge and a tape measure to do a home brewed alignment.

Here is a great thread covering a variety of methods.

http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13211&highlight=home+alignment

 

[midlife]

On my 66, I used an aftermarket caster/camber gauge ( http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1934/Caster_Camber_Gauges ) for about $40, and built a toe gauge out of scrap 1" steel tubing. I used plastic garbage bags under the ties for the camber measurements. I then took it to a professional old-timer, who took measurements, then added a 1/32" spacer to one upper control arm and got exactly the alignment I desired.

I've since used the same tool on two other vehicles, and each time the owner has taken it back to this old-timer, and he didn't have to add or change a thing.

It isn't rocket science, folks! Just follow the instructions that comes with the gauge and the shop manual, and you can't go wrong.

 

[droptop73]

You DO NOT want to set to "factory" specs! With modern radial tires you will not like the handling. Some good baseline numbers are 0 to -.5 camber (in at the top) 1/16" to 1/8" toe in and as much caster as you can get (+3 to +5 degrees) with a maximum .25 degree difference from side to side. Set camber, then caster then toe. Toe will change while setting both caster and camber (especially camber)

 

[midlife]

When I mentioned the Shop Manual, I was referring to the procedures to set the various caster, camber, and toe, not meaning to imply to use the shop manual's actual settings.

I thought the order was caster, camber, then toe...at least that's what my gauge instructions and the 66 Shop Manual states.

 

[Kermit 460]

Thanks Guys !

 

[imusa76]

I had Town Fair Tire do mine when I first bought the car, 12 yrs ago, and then Last year when I installed the new Tires.

they did a really good job.

 

[72HCODE]

i did mine a few years ago... It was a lot of effort i had issues, i bought the fasttraxx alignment tool and some turn tables. i was also worried about getting my car done at a local shop.

so i did it and i drove it for 2 years, i didn't have issues.

then i decided i wanted to get the AC working and needed an inspection. i went to a local shop that i was told was good. they had the new laser alignment system

I told the guy running the equipment to punch in the specs, i can't remember but it was somehting like 1/8" pos toe, 1 neg camber, and i told him as much caster as he could get after playing around we settled on about 2.25 caster because things were hitting my sway bar. I had put like 3.5 caster on myself. (but didn't know the strut rod was hitting the sway sometimes.

my numbers from my home alignment were ok but by the laser machine standards terrible. I told the tech i did the alignment myself and he was impressed he said pretty good for a person that never did one before. i was within 5% on both sides

After i went for a drive and the car felt no different at all. but i felt better having a machine confirm the numbers.

Since then i did the alignment on one other car,,, but it really does become a problem having a level garage floor is CRITICAL and i did not i had to compensate for a wavy floor.

looking back the DYI was a waste of money but i learned how to do it pretty well. as long as you are present for the alignment and they have a laser machine and give the guy the numbers you should be fine having a big place do the alignment. just make sure they tighten everything back up correctly.