Edelbrock carbs: what does "Ford Kickdown: No" mean?

[RC92234]

Here are three Holleys I’m considering: Warrior, Demon or Classic. I think I’m going with Holley as they seem to have nailed the Ford trans kickdown. As best I can tell, all the Holley are square bore necessitating a square-to-spread adaptor ($29-$70).

Third in the list has dual inlets necessitating a fuel dual line adaptor unless I can connect to just one?

Holley 4160 600 CFM Street Warrior $427 (Square bore)
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street/parts/0-80457S

Holley 625 CFM Street Demon $401 (Square bore)
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street/parts/1901

Holley 4160 600 CFM Classic Holley $440 (Square bore, dual inlet)
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street/parts/0-80458SA

 

[mrgmhale]

Why not install thread insert into that stripped filter hole? It will save the carb.. Much cheaper than replacing the whole carburetor..

Agreed. I have seen several folks show how to fix stripped fuel inlet threads on YouTube using thread inserts and/or epoxy. It is worth a try, especially for a nice carb (I like the 4300 series 4v carbs for street/cruising use). I searched on "fuel inlet stripped threads insert epoxy" and found a lot of videos. One I know I wartched, and liked, was a comparison of various techniques and products to repair stripped threads by "Project Farms." The host does a terrific job of comparing all kinds of different products and techniques, worth subscribing to.

 

[mrgmhale]

Edelbrock requires a separate kickdown linkage setup that's, IMO, extremely hokey. It moves the throttle cable out away from the carb another 3/4" or so.

IMO, if you want to go the Edelbrock carb route, get a Lokar cable setup.

My personal preference for these cars is a Summit 600 or 750 depending on your plans for the engine. 600 is plenty for a near-stock 351C-4V

View attachment 73923

I am also an advocate for (fan of) Lokar with their many offerings. It is well worth reaching out to them when seeking a solution. I never would have guessed there is a large enough deman for various rods and linkage solutions to warranty running a company specializing on that arena. But, here they are. And every solutions I purchased from them has been the right approach and right solutions. The most recent purchases I have made from them were for a transplanted AOD in our 1973 Mach 1 with a 351W running a 750 CFM Holley. I needed an adjustable cable for an AOD Throttle Valve Pressure Arm, and a highly adjustable shoft rod to use the original C4 Floor Shifter with the AOD - other than their rod, nothing more was needed for the floor shifter to be connected. It worked perfectly, despite the AOD not being expected to match the detent positions of the C4 oriented shifter. (P R N OD D vs P R N D 2 1, 5 AOD detent positions vs 6 C4 detent positions). It would be difficult to explain in writing how the original shifter works with the AOD (using the Lokar shifting rod), but I do show and explain it in a YouTube video Lynda and I put together (of course):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QncIKQTvNo The shifter info begins at 04:01 mm:ss into the video. But wait! There's more! I make a mis-statement initially re: the shifter "1" position, and correct it verbally at 05:25.

Further, In yet another video we put together I cover the Lokar adjustable shift rod (and show it installed) in the link below at 04:48 mm:ss) into the video.
https://youtu.be/pQwGkIOwGQ0

 

[giantpune]

I've got a lokar kickdown cable connected to a holley, and a similar TV cable connected to an edelbrock carb. No issues out of either of them.
Or OP can solve this the right way... Replace carbeurator with one that doesn't have a kickdown rod connector. Swap transmission over to tremec 6 speed.

 

[RC92234]

I appreciate the "save the beast!" suggestions but I've been struggling with this carb since the day I got the car. No matter how it's adjusted, tends to return to a too rich mixture and the choke is problematic. Plus, it's been sloppily kludge-repaired by a PO or two (I'm assuming) for leaks with Jeld-wen. And in the greater picture of problems left to solve, a new carb seems to be the way to go.

I'm keeping all the old stuff in case next owner needs/wants it. And MGRMHALE, those videos from Project Farms are fascinating - thanks.