Engine Rebuilt Kits

[timsweet]

There are a lot of kits out there to rebuild my 351C V2.

Anyone use a kit for rebuilding their engine?

Tim

 

[73pony]

Are you planning on doing most of the work yourself? If so I would be interested in a good how to and if you go with a kit which one and what you thought of it. My 2v is getting tired and I'm pretty sure a rebuild is coming next winter.

 

[timsweet]

Yes, I plan on doing it myself. I'll use the current block, if there's nothing wrong with it. I've picked up an engine stand and a cradle, borrowing a hoist and load balancer

I blog almost all of my work on the Mustang and post it on my site.

I can share the url in a PM if you are interested.

Thanks

Tim

Are you planning on doing most of the work yourself? If so I would be interested in a good how to and if you go with a kit which one and what you thought of it. My 2v is getting tired and I'm pretty sure a rebuild is coming next winter.

 

[73pony]

That would be great. Have you ever rebuilt an engine before? I have not. But then I always say best way to learn is to do it. I had never converted a car from Auto to Manual until this past spring and so far I am happy with those results.

 

[barnett468]

I buy the parts separate.

 

[Omie01]

I also buy the parts separately, and research each part. Nothing guarantee's working parts as I found out this last winter. I just don't trust "kits".:chin:

 

[mustang7173]

Timsweet,

What are your plans for the engine? Standard driving or put your foot in it when you want to and know it will not come apart?

A book to get and read.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1613250487/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003VT2D8E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JAEY8DV4MWSGFKQREGD

Some of the things I did was new rod bolts, reconditioned shot preened and magnifluxed connecting rods, chamfered the crank oil holes, power forged Pistons, and other parts that are better than the factory originals.

Rebuild kit summit racing

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-csmhp732-311/overview/make/ford

Mustang7173

 

[timsweet]

I don't understand 'Standard Driving'. but, I'm sure that's a thing!!!! (J/K nothing wrong with standard driving). Some light drag racing and spirited street driving.

I am putting a Aussie Ford FACTORY 351 Cleveland 2V 4 barrel intake and unless there's a huge problem with the block it will stay as it.....for this rebuild anyway.

I've got a couple of George's books.

Timsweet,

What are your plans for the engine? Standard driving or put your foot in it when you want to and know it will not come apart?

A book to get and read.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1613250487/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003VT2D8E&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1JAEY8DV4MWSGFKQREGD

Some of the things I did was new rod bolts, reconditioned shot preened and magnifluxed connecting rods, chamfered the crank oil holes, power forged Pistons, and other parts that are better than the factory originals.

Rebuild kit summit racing

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-csmhp732-311/overview/make/ford

Mustang7173

 

[c9zx]

For the most part I select components individually. I suggest wait ing to buy parts until all machine work is done and you know final deck height, crank journal diameters and radius size, and bore size. Be very careful when selecting pistons as compression distances vary significantly from vendor to vendor and affects compression ratio significantly. The most critical decision is machine shop selection. Find one that does a lot of high performance work and is familiar with Clevelands. A good question to ask is,"Do you have a honing plate for this engine?" If the answer is no, keep looking for a machine shop. Good luck with the build. Chuck

 

[barnett468]

ok, you can't really do this properly without getting into build specs also . below are 4 xlnt piston options for your app, but you will have around 9.2 compression with the speed pro and 9.0 with the srp if you have 75 cc heads which is decet but slightly low for a strong performance engine . you need to zero deck the block or use raised dome pistons or longer rods to get it any higher.

it is best to bore the engine out as little as possible and their are no off the shelf .020" forged pistons, however, you can have custom forged side relief 4032 material pistons made for $575.00 . i prefer this material over 2618 for most non forced induction and non nitrous apps because they expand less and you can have tighter cylinder to piston clearances.

.020" over

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-h555cp20/overview/make/ford

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/uem-kb108-020/overview/make/ford

.030" over

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2379f30/overview/make/ford

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/srp-206044-8/overview/make/ford

depending on the shop you use, it may cost you up to $200.00 for rod bolts and resizing only . you can buy new high perf H bean rods for $470.00.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-5780f3d/overview/make/ford

if you just get new bolts, these are way more than good enough.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-6003/overview/make/ford

i don't know if your book addresses it but try not to install the front cam bearing deeper than .005" from the front of the block.

you can also keep the stock stroke but use longer rods and shorter pistons to increase performance and improve rod to stroke ratio.

you can also make a mini stroker fairy cheap by offset grinding the crank.

i would use an ati damper.

if you are on a budget, i would use a cloyes true roller timing set . if you are not, i would use a rollmaster.

stock cleveland oil pump but disassemble and clean it and hone the bypass valve bore with a ball hone and wd40 for around 3 seconds sand sand the od f the valve lightly with 1200 sandpaper and wd40 or yo may be very, very, unhappy.

arp oil pump drive.

half grooved clevite bearings . you can also get them moly coated.

you can get the parts machined to use a one piece rear main seal also if you want.

if you use a hydraulic cam, i would use crane anti pump lifters . make sure the oil band does not rise above the bevel in the lifter bore at full cam lift.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-99280-16/overview/make/ford

COMPRESSION CALCULATOR

http://www.wallaceracing.com/cr_test2.php

THERMOSTAT

I would buy the custom brass machined insert and t stat with the machined hat or just install a bypass insert and use a standard style 180 degree high flow one.

.

 

[timsweet]

Yes I will have to wait. As I mentioned in other posts, I don't know where the bottom half of this engine has been. With the ends off it appeared stock, but I didn't measure anything - didn't need to at the time.

For the most part I select components individually. I suggest wait ing to buy parts until all machine work is done and you know final deck height, crank journal diameters and radius size, and bore size. Be very careful when selecting pistons as compression distances vary significantly from vendor to vendor and affects compression ratio significantly. The most critical decision is machine shop selection. Find one that does a lot of high performance work and is familiar with Clevelands. A good question to ask is,"Do you have a honing plate for this engine?" If the answer is no, keep looking for a machine shop. Good luck with the build. Chuck

 

[timsweet]

I haven't done a complete rebuild before. Changed out heads, lifter, ect. I once took a 318 completely apart....then sold the Dodge Dart. - Starving Student..ran out of $$$$.

Tim

That would be great. Have you ever rebuilt an engine before? I have not. But then I always say best way to learn is to do it. I had never converted a car from Auto to Manual until this past spring and so far I am happy with those results.