Prep prior to paint.

[California 72]

Using VHT chassis paint, they say that it doesn’t need primer and understanding the curing process for their paint is more chemical that evaporative, there’s a specific primer needed.

I am watching budget not regardless of the added work but rather because of it.

The primer isn’t inexpensive so I’m following their claims and skipping it. This has created a couple questions.

As far as prep, I’m trying to remove as much rust, both surface and deep. So, as things get cleaned flash rust appears.

Immediately prior to paint, everything will be wiped down with acetone. Is the flash rust able to be covered directly with the Chassis paint.

As far as other, more unreachable places like recessions and creases, I’m brushing on rust converter so, does that require any special prep?

Thanks with your help here as well.

 

[Don C]

I am using Rust-oleum Rust Reformer on places that are easily accessible, it is both a rust converter and a primer.

On less accessible places I am using Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, it also converts rust and coats it. It comes with both a regular spray nozzle and a flexible tube that has a spray nozzle and allows the inside of enclosed areas to be coated, like the A pillar, the crash frame inside the door, inside the kick panel areas, several nooks and crannies in the fenders and doors, rocker panels, cowl and so on. They both cost more than regular primers, but less than epoxy.

 

[California 72]

Internal frame coating. That’s what I was trying to think of when I was searching. So it worked good? I’m more curious about coverage at the point. I believe we’re sharp enough to realize you can’t see in some of these spaces so, does it apply well?
I’m messing with the cowling right now and at some point in its life, probably when it was last repainted, they spread a sealer paste and just painted over when cured instead of cleaning and prepping better.
When you start asking the questions, it starts to sink in how much work starts to appear the deeper we look.
Thanks for the info.

 

[MikeGriese]

I'm cringing a little, but that's my problem.

You are putting a LOT of time and money into this project. Skipping a fundamental step like proper paint preparation is kinda self defeating in the long run.

Also, I would recommend following the manufacturer's directions when it comes to their coatings. They really do know their stuff. If they support skipping primer, then I say go for it. If they don't, sit down with a beverage of choice and stare at the car a good long while before coming to a decision.

 

[California 72]

The beverage idea sounds really good
My history with paint is, everything I knew is not what’s new.

That said, please cringe and comment. Imron was the dig daddy of paints when I was at the tail end of cars. So, lacquer and clear coat or enamel was it.

We taped all our stripes or color changes to provide a seamless blend. Heck, feather fill was just coming in too. That was a learning curve all by itself but my one time was all I got.

The last car I shit was a ‘76 Toyota Corolla I purchased from my father in my effort to appease him as a move away from V-8 performance. Long, sorted and very touchy subject there so, moving on. I used an enamel and it took forever to cure because of the temps from an old kerosene heater that couldn’t be used while painting.

I’m not sure of the complete VHT history, I just don’t remember hearing of them in ‘79. But the point is, I think paint has grown 2 generations , at the least since that cold winter day in 1980.

As far as prep goes, we wiped dow with whatever we had the most of or a combination of everything. I chose Acetone because it removes anything and everything petroleum based.

VHT doesn’t recommend anything that I can find so I’m stepping back to what I remembered.

I’d say we did pretty good given one of our groups cars, a 1968 Charger painted Hemi orange with the Black rear stripe, was at 1982 Carcraft nationals in Springfield Illinois and , memory fuzzy here, I think it was a judges favorite or an honorable mention (?) or maybe it was 3rd for what class I cannot remember.

Anyhow, everything has changed so much, I’m actually something a brick over painting this car for the very reasons you mentioned If there is something that’s cost effective and not $20 bucks a can from Eastwood,
help is needed and welcomed please, by all means and sources.

Thanks for posting too.

 

[MikeGriese]

Modern coatings are on the spendy side, that's a fact. At least the ones that last. And they are much less likely to kill you.

 

[California 72]

Modern coatings are on the spendy side, that's a fact. At least the ones that last. And they are much less likely to kill you.

Actually, it’s the stress between pricey and being the applicator that’s killing me.

There will be dozens more questions so all I’m asking is the collective Master level of experience throw a bone my way from time to time.

In the end, it’s always easier with a little help from my friends and today, they’re age old to new here. The definition has changed a bit, with forums but the core meaning remains. People who have a few shared and sometimes opposing interests and opinions help each other out with an approach that’s a little bit of everything.

Like I said, talk keep the comments coming and I’ll figure it out.
Thanks again