Engine running weird

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Yeah
If you poured a small amount of gas down the carb and it didn't start, it's not a fuel delivery or starvation problem.

It could be flooded, pull a plug and see if they're wet and smell like gas. If so, hold the pedal to the floor while cranking it over. If that's the issue, then you should look at rebuilding the carb, as the needle and seat may be sticking, allowing too much gas into the bowls.

The coil resistance looks pretty "ok". Specs are Primary 1.4 ~ 1.54, secondary 7600~8800. Sometimes coils can fail when the engine warms up due to heat.
the carb is okay, spark plugs were not wet they were dry it might be the distributor because I had backfire today never had it on this before and the firing order seems to not be working properly
 
While I'm not an expert on these things, I learned a lot from my own trials and tribulations with the ignition on my 71 M code 4V, which is a bit different to the later 73's.
The distributor is just a mechanical gismo and for sure it could be shot, but before going out and buying one of those fancy expensive "brand name" dizzy that everybody thinks are better, I'd do some basic checks. The first thing is the shaft. Is there any movement sideways on it? If there is then for sure the timing could be wandering because the points gaps is changing. If there is no movement sideways, check for rotational movement. If there is then it could be the drive gear is worn also causing timing troubles. If all is good, then perhaps invest in a Pertronix Ignitor I and ditch the points. This module can be run on the reduced voltage, same as the points. It's an easy swap and will give way better performance at this stage. You can upgrade later if you wish to a Pertronix Ignitor II. You will need too buy the matching coil in either case. (the PII needs a full 12V, so other work needs to be done first).
Next you will need to verify the initial timing. I'm not sure what that was spec'd at, but probably 10 deg BTDC is a good start point. You'll need a good timing light, one with a dial to see your degree settings.
If you do decide to replace the dizzy and if I had to do it again, I'd buy the Ford DuraSpark which is a bit later version of the Motorcraft you have, but electronic. You can buy these already set up for your engine specs, but I don't remember the name of the company that does them. You can also buy a reman from Cardone or their new Chinese version.
This can all be a bit daunting, but I get the feeling you're a very capable person and can figure it out. Ask lot's of questions if needed.
Good luck.
 
While I'm not an expert on these things, I learned a lot from my own trials and tribulations with the ignition on my 71 M code 4V, which is a bit different to the later 73's.
The distributor is just a mechanical gismo and for sure it could be shot, but before going out and buying one of those fancy expensive "brand name" dizzy that everybody thinks are better, I'd do some basic checks. The first thing is the shaft. Is there any movement sideways on it? If there is then for sure the timing could be wandering because the points gaps is changing. If there is no movement sideways, check for rotational movement. If there is then it could be the drive gear is worn also causing timing troubles. If all is good, then perhaps invest in a Pertronix Ignitor I and ditch the points. This module can be run on the reduced voltage, same as the points. It's an easy swap and will give way better performance at this stage. You can upgrade later if you wish to a Pertronix Ignitor II. You will need too buy the matching coil in either case. (the PII needs a full 12V, so other work needs to be done first).
Next you will need to verify the initial timing. I'm not sure what that was spec'd at, but probably 10 deg BTDC is a good start point. You'll need a good timing light, one with a dial to see your degree settings.
If you do decide to replace the dizzy and if I had to do it again, I'd buy the Ford DuraSpark which is a bit later version of the Motorcraft you have, but electronic. You can buy these already set up for your engine specs, but I don't remember the name of the company that does them. You can also buy a reman from Cardone or their new Chinese version.
This can all be a bit daunting, but I get the feeling you're a very capable person and can figure it out. Ask lot's of questions if needed.
Good luck.
Thank you! Well since my car doesn’t even turn on I will try to get the first cylinder to be at the top and measure it from that with the rotor pointing at it, im pretty sure that’s how you do it..
 
Thank you! Well since my car doesn’t even turn on I will try to get the first cylinder to be at the top and measure it from that with the rotor pointing at it, im pretty sure that’s how you do it..
Checking for shaft play, there is no need to find TDC, just pull the rotor to check it. If ok, then proceed to check the timing setting.
 
If you poured a small amount of gas down the carb and it didn't start, it's not a fuel delivery or starvation problem.

It could be flooded, pull a plug and see if they're wet and smell like gas. If so, hold the pedal to the floor while cranking it over. If that's the issue, then you should look at rebuilding the carb, as the needle and seat may be sticking, allowing too much gas into the bowls.

The coil resistance looks pretty "ok". Specs are Primary 1.4 ~ 1.54, secondary 7600~8800. Sometimes coils can fail when the engine warms up due to heat.
I have (also) seen (and replaced) coils fail when they warmed up. It is not all that common overall, but happened often enough that I was always on the lookout for that happening.
 
I'd like to go back to what mrgmhale said earlier in the forum. I have just taken my tank out and removed the sender unit. The sender unit filter was full of compacted debris completely clogging the unit.
The new filter (65-73.79-86 FUEL SENDER FILTER 3/8) cost $26.00 and just slips on to the uptake pipe. I'm not sure you have to take the tank out but you do have to take out most of the fuel because the sender unit is the fitting close to the bottom with the fuel supply hose coming out of it.
It might be easier to get to if you take the left hand rear wheel off.
 
hello, I have a 1973 grande 351 Cleveland 2v, it recently started chugging when driving like it wasn’t getting enough fuel before this it was fine, (note: was sitting for 21 years I did some TLC, new spark plugs and spark wires new distributor cap and points and condenser,) has spark and carburetor pumps fuel the fuel pump works the accelerator pump works, today it quit working on me it chugged for 10 seconds then shut off and I had trouble starting again eventually I did I cranked and cranked got it started but not for long this happened twice until I got home, any suggestions? I cleaned fuel tank there was gunk I put on a fuel filter last week put about 15 miles on it swapped it today after I broke down there were chunks of crap In there from gas tank, and suggestions? Do I need a new carburetor or is it an electrical problem with the distributor (I have spark) someone with experience please help if you can! Thanks!! - Michael.
Update: I got it running and driving! I replaced the distributor and set the timing to (roughly) 13 degrees. It runs and drives fine the only thing weird I guess is that it shifts hard from park to Drive or reverse other than that smooth sailing. Also my radiator has a leak I believe small leak…
 
Update: I got it running and driving! I replaced the distributor and set the timing to (roughly) 13 degrees. It runs and drives fine the only thing weird I guess is that it shifts hard from park to Drive or reverse other than that smooth sailing. Also my radiator has a leak I believe small leak…
That is awesome buddy!!
 

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