FMX to AOD swap. Complete report.

[Mister 4x4]

I got lucky and received the factory TV cable with the transmission... in fact, I got everything but the speedo cable and TV/Throttle Cable bracket (he still needed it for the throttle cable).

I'm thinking that by fabricating the new TV bracket so that there's no slack at idle, without changing the 'settings' on the TV cable, it should be pretty much where it needs to be (factory settings). If that doesn't work out, I'll probably just get one of those aftermarket valve bodies. And if it's too late and smokes the tranny, I'll think hard about just finding a 4R70W to go back in there.

Thanks for your thoughts on how it ran before you swapped out rear gears. It helps me to understand what I can look forward to, since I'd never actually driven mine before I tore it all apart.

 

[rutkak]

Hello Forum,

I'm running a 90 AOD in a 69 Torino with a 351W with mild upgrades. There are three things I have not heard mention in this post and having lived this pain I thought I'd share some AAR notes.

1). I didn't notice in this post any mention of the throttle / TV geometry corrector. I'm running the Lokar throttle cable and AOD cable. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SOX-AS5-05K.

2). Homemade Lokar TV cable helper spring to pull the pressure back to near zero when there is no accelerator. This installs on the trans pan pulling the spring back to zero idle. The Lokar spring is pretty weak so it's fairly common to add a helper spring to pull it back when there is no acceleration.

3). Trans cooler. Going from an FMX to AOD requires some additional cooling (or so I'm told) so add a nice, high-end B&M trans cooler in front of your radiator. My radiator did not have trans cooler provisions in it.

A few other notes: 35 psi of pressure was too little on my trans but the most important thing (to me) was to ensure that I immediately got pressure when applying the accelerator. My TV pressure ended up being about 42 psi after tuning. Anything less and it sounds like my trans was grinding when downshifting from 2-1.

I added trans temp and pressure gauges in a discreet spot in my engine bay to ensure nothing zany was going on. Any time you adjust the idle you'll need to adjust your TV cable. 1/4 turn on the TV actually goes a long way. No need to burn up a trans. I'd add them in the interior but I don't have space.

-KR

 

[Mister 4x4]

In reference to your first two points, I'm using the factory TV cable set-up - so I can't answer for the Lokar users.

However, cars equipped with FMXs should have trans-coolers in the radiator, since the FMX required the same. I'm not saying that's the best trans-cooler solution available, but considering the FMX and AOD are very similar, it shouldn't be a problem for normal driving conditions (most AOD-equipped cars used radiator trans-coolers as well, after all).

"Good to know" information on the idle setting and the extra gauges. Thanks for sharing! ::thumb::

 

[rutkak]

Oh yes, roger that. The PO of my Torino routed around the radiator cooler and went with a cheap Haynes after-market cooler....probably because the radiator was shot as it was. I replaced the radiator and added the trans cooler lines back to it so mine routes:

Upper AOD (hot out) - inline tee temp - radiator trans in - radiator trans out - B&M trans cooler in - B&M trans cooler out - Lower AOD (cool in).

I don't put much stock in the radiator trans cooler and I tend to go with overkill when it comes to cooling and 45 yr old cars especially because I've lived in GA, NC, VA and I'll be moving to TX in about a year. Necessary? Maybe not, but it can't hurt and gives me a lil piece of mind.

In my opinion having the pressure gauge is an absolute must. My end pressure is actually 44 psi. It sits at zero in N with zero throttle and immediately creeps up when I give her some gas.

-KR

 

[Hotstang]

What about steering column lock?

I haven't seen anyone address the extra rod that goes from the bottom of the shifter arm to the steering column that locks the wheel when shifter put in park.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I rotated mine into the 'disengaged' position and zip-tied it in-place (so it doesn't inadvertently lock while the vehicle is in motion).

The key lock feature still works, so the illusion of security is still there. I can't honestly see the need to also have the transmission lock the steering column in-place for any reason.

 

[tfowler9]

I have the Cleveland engine with a FMX transmission. i want to do the AOD swap.  What year AOD will work with my Cleveland engine. I had an opportunity to buy a used AOD from a 1992 ford, but the both pattern would not work with my Cleveland engine.  The 1992 AOD was a one piece design. Did earlier models have  a two piece design?

Thanks Tom

 

[luxstang]

Nope. Mine is from 86 if I remember correctly and it's a one piece design too.

 

[tfowler9]

Nope. Mine is from 86 if I remember correctly and it's a one piece design too.

What engine do you have?

 

[luxstang]

351 Windsor.

 

[Don C]

302 (5.0), 351W (5.8), 351C (5.8) V8 engines, as well as the 3.8L and 4.2LV6 engines all share the small block bolt pattern. 1992 was a crossover year, where both small block and modular engines were available, and AOD and AOD-E transmissions were available. Small block and modular engines DO NOT have the same bolt patterns. There was also the A4LD non-electronic transmission available in 1992 and was used only on 4 cylinder and small V6 (such as 2.8 and 2.9) engines, and also does not have the small block bolt pattern.

The best AOD would be from a pickup. The ones used with a V6 were the lighter duty version, but can be rebuilt to heavy duty.

All AOD and AOD-E engines have one-piece cases and do not have a separate bellhousing.