Fuel delivery question regarding fuel pump

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Hold on here -

Before Ralph starts spending more money to modify everything to adjustable rockers, shouldn't he at least take a look under the intake and valve covers and run Chuck's dial indicator test?

What's to say that the shop didn't use assembly lube on the cam and lifters? Wiped lobes/lifters will cause the lifters to sit lower in their bores or stick from mushrooming:

8xivcl.jpg


Did the shop change the valves? If so, were the valves and heads cut so that the stems sit at their correct height?

-Kurt

 
Last edited by a moderator:
What ratio rocker arm is required for a 351?
Click to expand...
The Crane conversion kit is for 5/16 diameter pushrods. Get seamless Chrome Moly, .080 wall (min). Pushrod flex is not you friend on a street car. If you are springing for the adjustable valve train, the geometry should be optimized and that will determine the pushrod length.

)
The video you linked is pretty general with lots of "rule of thumb" information. The one full turn after zero lash results in .050 preload if the the threads are 20 tpi. That may or may not be in tolerance depending on who built the lifter. The 12 o'clock- 5 o'clock crank spin may work or not depending on the cam profile. The video poster was a Chevy guy, thought #5 was #1. Read this, 5th post down, Cam King. http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=23748

The stock rocker ratio is 1.73. Do not let someone talk you into using BBC rockers, not the same. All roller rocker are not created equal do the research to find one that has a good reputation for reliability and ratio accuracy. Chuck

 
Kurt, my assumptions are that all was done correctly but the video tells otherwise. I agree that pulling the covers for a cursory check is the first thing that needs to be done. My car made a lot of noise before I brought it to the shop. Maybe the pushrods have been another problem from the beginning. I am in busy season and work all the time so taking time to do this on my daily driver is not an option at the moment. I have to drive it to work and it is certainly way to noisy on startup. It quiets significantly on the drive home. I am hearing all kinds of things when it is cold including detonation I think. Similar to clakity clak but different and accelerator initiated when cold, less when hot. I will have to also buy a jet kit and try to get the jetting right as well. I have so much to do and no time. I wish I had had more time to get it right before I needed to drive. I hope nothing breaks before I have time to do this correctly and learn a little along the way, The leaking oil simply pisses me off because they took my clean no oil leaking car and turned it into the kind of leaky vehicle I don't like. Have to park on the street to save my driveway from the mess.

 
I have to drive it to work and it is certainly way to noisy on startup. It quiets significantly on the drive home.
Click to expand...
Significantly? As in nearly no noise at the end of the day?

If so, I would suspect a severe oil delivery issue to the top end more than pushrod length.

Did the shop do anything to the galleries? Did the shop report any sludge in the block? Was the oil sump changed to a non-stock unit?

-Kurt

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Oil pressure gauge reads between 35 and 60 psi depending on position of gas peddle. At idle the car is at 35 to 40 psi when hot.

 
Fuel pump took a crap today. I was stranded on the way to work so I found out how to pull it with a tow strap. Awesome.

 
Mike, nothing a pile of money and a decent mechanic can't solve. I suspected the fuel pump was intermittent but it is now dead. Fuel going in but nothing coming out. I will fix it tomorrow in my parking lot at work and try again. I think this might solve some of the issues I have been chasing.

 
Mike, nothing a pile of money and a decent mechanic can't solve. I suspected the fuel pump was intermittent but it is now dead. Fuel going in but nothing coming out. I will fix it tomorrow in my parking lot at work and try again. I think this might solve some of the issues I have been chasing.
Click to expand...
The pile of money isn't the issue as much as it is to find a decent mechanic - and I dare say the decent mechanic can do it cheaper, because he doesn't have to fix 2,392 things that are NOT wrong with the engine before he fixes what is wrong with the engine.

You know, that fuel pump might have prevented you from wrecking your engine. Might be a bit of good luck that it failed.

-Kurt

 
Well, the fuel pump was the source of some of the racket. I am once again back in business. I changed the pump in the work parking lot and my car seems to run a whole lot better than before. I will take on the rocker clatter soon. I will report out when I get around to it.

New question, do any of you have rattle free cars. The fancy flip down rear seat seems to be a source of a crap load of noise. Time to flip it down and see if it helps.

 
Quick question, how much pressure should I need to exert on the pneumatic switch that closes off water to the heater core. Should it be really easy or middle pressure.

 
I decided to try my Holley carb out on the car. It worked great until it did not. I think it has a bad float because all was good and then the front bowl filled to the brim and flooded out the car. I got it running again and it did the same thing again. It ran much faster with the holley so I decided to pull the jets from the Holley and see what they are. I found 67's in my Summit carb and 70's in the Holley. Took the 70's out and put them in the Summit and it runs a whole lot better. Might have been running around really lean. I will buy a jet kit and dial it in. Can't figure out why my car sounds quieter with the Holley. Makes no sense.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I still have the clakity clack but it is tolerable until I get adjustable rockers. I am also thinking I will get an Edelbrock carb also. My car ran better with the Holley other than hard starting and flooding the bowls occasionally. The Holley seems to be impossible to set the bowls and the secondary bowl is flooding everything out but not always so I think I will try an Edelbrock. Had Edebrock on both my 65's and found them to be easy to setup and both cars were a one turn start. I know the carb is not right but it runs o'k so I think I can try something else that worked well for me in the past. Still have some work to make this a good daily driver. The MagnaFlows are still too loud but that seems to also be somewhat fuel delivery related because it sounded queter with the Holley until it flooded out.

 
I was just looking at 4160 carbs and thought the non adjustable float part sounds really good to me. What is the deal with the non adjustable part, I really like that idea.

 
I was just looking at 4160 carbs and thought the non adjustable float part sounds really good to me. What is the deal with the non adjustable part, I really like that idea.
Click to expand...
http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/640760-holley-4160-non-adjustable-carburetor-thoughts-experience.html

Not keen on the idea. The adjustable 4160's are the way to go. Not that hard to adjust the needle and seat from the top - especially with the sight level screw in the bowl.

Most of what you describe in regards to your Holley sound like adjustment problems more than anything else.

-Kurt

 
Thought that too about adjustment except my Summit adjusts the same and site level adjustments there stay perfect where I can't get the secondary bowl to adjust and it floods out the front from the crossover tube. I changed the needle and seat and still same, suspect float problem. May go play with it again tomorrow.

seems dumb to ne to have to adjust floats. Seems you could make one that has fuel at level needed without adjustment.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Thought that too about adjustment except my Summit adjusts the same and site level adjustments there stay perfect where I can't get the secondary bowl to adjust and it floods out the front from the crossover tube. I changed the needle and seat and still same, suspect float problem. May go play with it again tomorrow.
Click to expand...
Cheaper and easier to buy a Holley from Omar that has been gone through thoroughly for oddball problems and issues. Chuck your troublesome one on eBay for someone else to troubleshoot and to cover the cost of the replacement.

-Kurt

 
Heard a strange knocking noise in my engine when I pulled off the highway. Pulled up to the light and revved it a few times gently and now the engine is smooth and the car runs like it should. Strange that a worrisome noise is followed by the car running near perfect minus the extra valve train noise. I thought something bad was getting ready to happen and still worry it is coming.

I will address with adjustable rockers and guide plates.

 

Similar threads

70cobrascj
Fuel pumps
Replies
8
Views
960
tony-muscle
tony-muscle
T
Fuel Pump replacement or upgrade?
Replies
8
Views
1K
mrgmhale
mrgmhale
Jackwagon3
Electric fuel pump conversion project
Replies
7
Views
2K
AcesArneson
AcesArneson
Ciphyx
Adjusting 351C Rocker Arms
Replies
8
Views
2K
mrgmhale
mrgmhale
M
73 Mach 1: New Fuel System with Firing/Idling Issues
2
Replies
22
Views
3K
Aus73Mach1
Aus73Mach1

Latest posts

Back
Top