Fuel Gauge Question

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flashback

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Sep 4, 2010
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Location
Iowa
My Car
79 Fairmont Futura (DragCar)
Mrs.FlashBack has the 71 Mach 1
Anyone ever have to replace the sender in the tank...how rough of a job is it and who has the best parts?

First we need to actually make sure it's not just a broken wire but in case we run into it being a bigger job would like some idea of what we're getting into!

Thanks,

Gene

 
Anyone ever have to replace the sender in the tank...how rough of a job is it and who has the best parts?

First we need to actually make sure it's not just a broken wire but in case we run into it being a bigger job would like some idea of what we're getting into!

Thanks,

Gene
I have done it twice, both while putting in new fuel tanks so that was when it was out of the car. Its not hard to do, just remove the connector and take a hammer with chisel to remove the keeper ring. and it should come right out, just remember the orientation of the sending unit when you pull it out. Also I did have a problem with my fuel guage one time and it was because the wire rubbed through back in the trunk and grounded out.

 
I have replased mine twice.The first sending unit had a float made of plastic it did not last very long.The last one I installed had a brass float no problems with it.

 
Thanks for the replies and the tips!

Whose pump/float were you using?

 
The sending units I had .I gotten them from a mustang vender.Before I knew about Don At OMS .Give Don a yell.
Just clicked on the link above...going to take a look...Thanks again.

Gene


Only 32.95....I guess I know where we'll be getting one if needed!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
just a word of caution:

Some reproduction fuel senders have the fuel outlet tube bent in the wrong direction. when your new one comes compare it to your old one first.

1.jpg


2.jpg


otherwise as others stated changing the sender is easy as long as you have a standard sender, if you have a low fuel warning light sender that is a problem. something like that needs to be sent out by a fuel sender restorer.

 
Thanks for the tips and the link to the article...not as bad as I first thought. Without having crawled under / into the car yet I was worried that one may have to drop the tank at least.

Do a lot of the mfg's of this part have the fuel outlet wrong or is the problem with one particular company's piece? Those must be for European bound Mustangs that have the steering wheel on the right side and where they drive on the wrong side of the road :-/

Gene

 
the great thing about replacing the sender on these cars is you don't even need to jack the car up. just drain the tank down as much as possible. pull the fuel line, catch all the remaining fuel that will come out. pop the ring with a flat head screw driver and a mallet, pull the ring out, pop the sender out, try not to swallow all the gas that will come out. Curse, clean up the mess, get some chewing gum for the taste of gas in your mouth, then take a new o ring seal, coat it in engine oil, or grease, make it stick to the tank, insert the sender, sock down into the tank, tank should be keyed. then put the ring on close it by hand make sure its aligned then pop it into place with a flat head and mallet, make sure it is seated.

now the fun part....

fill up a fuel bottle with 4-5 gallons of gas, pour it into the tank, Check for leaks, now look for leaks around the electrical connector, make sure its bone dry(I replaced my sender 3 times before i got one that didn't leak from the connector.)

now hook up electrical and fuel line. get in the car turn the key to acc and make sure your fuel gauge reads 1/4 tank. It won't

now go back to the top and and remove the sender. and bend the arm in the direction you think it needs to read correct fuel levels.

cue more cursing.

I never calibrated my fuel sender so when i'm around half tank, i'm about 6-8 gallons down. when the gauge reads 1/4 on mine i get nervous and fill up. even the oem senders needed to calibrated like that.

:(

as far as getting one thats made with the correct bend in it, it can be hit or miss. I bought my senders 2 years apart... hopefully by now they are all correct, but double check.

 
just a word of caution:

Some reproduction fuel senders have the fuel outlet tube bent in the wrong direction. when your new one comes compare it to your old one first.

1.jpg


2.jpg


otherwise as others stated changing the sender is easy as long as you have a standard sender, if you have a low fuel warning light sender that is a problem. something like that needs to be sent out by a fuel sender restorer.
looking at the pic, the only difference is the tube orientation? if so that has nothing to do with the way the float assembly works with this sending unit does it?

 
just a word of caution:

Some reproduction fuel senders have the fuel outlet tube bent in the wrong direction. when your new one comes compare it to your old one first.

1.jpg


2.jpg


otherwise as others stated changing the sender is easy as long as you have a standard sender, if you have a low fuel warning light sender that is a problem. something like that needs to be sent out by a fuel sender restorer.
looking at the pic, the only difference is the tube orientation? if so that has nothing to do with the way the float assembly works with this sending unit does it?
correct it has nothing to do with any of the electrical connections or fuel coming up from the tank bottom; However, having the fuel outlet tube in the wrong direction will cause the fuel line to lay on your exhaust pipe and can cause a kink in the rubber hose. Trust me you want that outlet tube bent correctly its a headache.

 

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