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I found mine on ebay for about $150.  It had some damage on the front surface of the console box (the previous owner of the car had added lights and switches to make it look like the Diamonds Are Forever car - otherwise, it was in really good shape), but the seller was honest about it, had a great story on his ebay write-up, and also surprised me by sending along a complete console box in case I wanted to perform surgery.  Once I removed the lights and switches, I noticed that the holes were close enough together for my purposes: restomod with the controls for the power windows right where the console damage was - I just reshaped the holes into something that the power window switches would fit into and made it work.

Then I cleaned up the console and repainted it with some SEM Interior Black to match the rest of the trim, and all is good!

If you don't mind searching around and possibly dealing with and/or repairing some minor damage, there are some less expensive consoles to be found.

 
I do rework consoles and sell them. You have to watch out on ebay if the console has been painted in the past I do not even consider them. Also if they look milky that is ArmorAll being slathered on for years. You will have a tough time getting any finish to stick.

I have sold a couple consoles on ebay and the buyers wanted original not redone and they paid $550. Clock worked and had decent ash tray and lid and not cracked anywhere.

When you put the console in never tighten the screws down tight. The ABS plastic gets very brittle with age.

If a console has repairs then the price will drop but never sold one for less than $350.

The clock is the thing that is getting difficult to find that works. The wire harness is different for a Cougar also. It has an additional light for the ash tray that Mustang did not have.

If you have a manual transmission you should have a plastic plate that goes around the boot. They repo them but made the wrong, lol, imagine that. Pic is what original looks like.

It costs a lot to ship one also around $100. I use USPS and I go to furniture store and get double walled cardboard and make the huge box. You have to stretch wrap the console to prevent scuffing. I fill plastic grocery bags with packing peanuts to protect it. I have sent two to California with no issues.

The chrome around the shift insert is always bad on old ones they do make new panels. Daniel Carpenter makes new lids for the box and they match perfect. He also makes the ash trays I believe.

You can fix the flocking in the box with stuff from Eastwood.

I found a guy once that had I think 8 in his garage. I had gone to pick up a car from his son in law. He asked me if I was interested in any parts. I bought the best 5 of them and he only wanted $45.00 each. So you never know what you might find.

Also consoles from desert or California are usually junk because of sun baking them. Much better in the snowy north east.

You can make your own repair plastic by taking an old ABS part and grind it up and put small amount of acetone on it and it melts. You can fill in defects. I use an old busted grill for mine. You need to reinforce behind split screw holes with fiberglass mat and epoxy also. Most of the crews cannot be seen when installed also.

When you install wire brush the screw threads really good and apply bar soap or candle wax to them to help prevent pulling threads out of the carpet. I do not even screw mine in it just sits there, lol.

The clock show in one console is actually from a Mustang II and is same mounting and same lights as stock one. So an alternate to look for. The Cougar harness is shown in one picture also.











 
When you install wire brush the screw threads really good and apply bar soap or candle wax to them to help prevent pulling threads out of the carpet. I do not even screw mine in it just sits there, lol.
HA!  That's how mine's currently "installed" as well.   ::thumb::

 
I do rework consoles and sell them. You have to watch out on ebay if the console has been painted in the past I do not even consider them. Also if they look milky that is ArmorAll being slathered on for years. You will have a tough time getting any finish to stick.

I have sold a couple consoles on ebay and the buyers wanted original not redone and they paid $550. Clock worked and had decent ash tray and lid and not cracked anywhere.

When you put the console in never tighten the screws down tight. The ABS plastic gets very brittle with age.

If a console has repairs then the price will drop but never sold one for less than $350.

The clock is the thing that is getting difficult to find that works. The wire harness is different for a Cougar also. It has an additional light for the ash tray that Mustang did not have.

If you have a manual transmission you should have a plastic plate that goes around the boot. They repo them but made the wrong, lol, imagine that. Pic is what original looks like.

It costs a lot to ship one also around $100. I use USPS and I go to furniture store and get double walled cardboard and make the huge box. You have to stretch wrap the console to prevent scuffing. I fill plastic grocery bags with packing peanuts to protect it. I have sent two to California with no issues.

The chrome around the shift insert is always bad on old ones they do make new panels. Daniel Carpenter makes new lids for the box and they match perfect. He also makes the ash trays I believe.

You can fix the flocking in the box with stuff from Eastwood.

I found a guy once that had I think 8 in his garage. I had gone to pick up a car from his son in law. He asked me if I was interested in any parts. I bought the best 5 of them and he only wanted $45.00 each. So you never know what you might find.

Also consoles from desert or California are usually junk because of sun baking them. Much better in the snowy north east.

You can make your own repair plastic by taking an old ABS part and grind it up and put small amount of acetone on it and it melts. You can fill in defects. I use an old busted grill for mine. You need to reinforce behind split screw holes with fiberglass mat and epoxy also. Most of the crews cannot be seen when installed also.

When you install wire brush the screw threads really good and apply bar soap or candle wax to them to help prevent pulling threads out of the carpet. I do not even screw mine in it just sits there, lol.

The clock show in one console is actually from a Mustang II and is same mounting and same lights as stock one. So an alternate to look for. The Cougar harness is shown in one picture also.









So David ... Two companies made them ... what's wrong with them one brand repro on the left, original in the middle, other brand repro on the right



 
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I do rework consoles and sell them. You have to watch out on ebay if the console has been painted in the past I do not even consider them. Also if they look milky that is ArmorAll being slathered on for years. You will have a tough time getting any finish to stick.

I have sold a couple consoles on ebay and the buyers wanted original not redone and they paid $550. Clock worked and had decent ash tray and lid and not cracked anywhere.

When you put the console in never tighten the screws down tight. The ABS plastic gets very brittle with age.

If a console has repairs then the price will drop but never sold one for less than $350.

The clock is the thing that is getting difficult to find that works. The wire harness is different for a Cougar also. It has an additional light for the ash tray that Mustang did not have.

If you have a manual transmission you should have a plastic plate that goes around the boot. They repo them but made the wrong, lol, imagine that. Pic is what original looks like.

It costs a lot to ship one also around $100. I use USPS and I go to furniture store and get double walled cardboard and make the huge box. You have to stretch wrap the console to prevent scuffing. I fill plastic grocery bags with packing peanuts to protect it. I have sent two to California with no issues.

The chrome around the shift insert is always bad on old ones they do make new panels. Daniel Carpenter makes new lids for the box and they match perfect. He also makes the ash trays I believe.

You can fix the flocking in the box with stuff from Eastwood.

I found a guy once that had I think 8 in his garage. I had gone to pick up a car from his son in law. He asked me if I was interested in any parts. I bought the best 5 of them and he only wanted $45.00 each. So you never know what you might find.

Also consoles from desert or California are usually junk because of sun baking them. Much better in the snowy north east.

You can make your own repair plastic by taking an old ABS part and grind it up and put small amount of acetone on it and it melts. You can fill in defects. I use an old busted grill for mine. You need to reinforce behind split screw holes with fiberglass mat and epoxy also. Most of the crews cannot be seen when installed also.

When you install wire brush the screw threads really good and apply bar soap or candle wax to them to help prevent pulling threads out of the carpet. I do not even screw mine in it just sits there, lol.

The clock show in one console is actually from a Mustang II and is same mounting and same lights as stock one. So an alternate to look for. The Cougar harness is shown in one picture also.









So David ... Two companies made them ... what's wrong with them one brand repro on the left, original in the middle, other brand repro on the right

The recess on the square end should not be there. I sold the one in pic to a member recently and I have a couple more and none have the recess. Two were 72 and one a 73. 4 speed and 3 speed is same.

 
David, the two ears creating the recessed area is correct 

That plate with ears is used on all 3 and 4 speed manual FULL console cars.

The factory workers trimmed off the two ears if the plate was installed on a cars with the small

mini console and 3 or 4 speed manual cars. As the ears would interfere with the ash tray operation.

They just modified it to clear the ash tray.



 
Last edited by a moderator:
I found mine on ebay for about $150.  It had some damage on the front surface of the console box (the previous owner of the car had added lights and switches to make it look like the Diamonds Are Forever car - otherwise, it was in really good shape), but the seller was honest about it, had a great story on his ebay write-up, and also surprised me by sending along a complete console box in case I wanted to perform surgery.  Once I removed the lights and switches, I noticed that the holes were close enough together for my purposes: restomod with the controls for the power windows right where the console damage was - I just reshaped the holes into something that the power window switches would fit into and made it work.

Then I cleaned up the console and repainted it with some SEM Interior Black to match the rest of the trim, and all is good!

If you don't mind searching around and possibly dealing with and/or repairing some minor damage, there are some less expensive consoles to be found.
Also got mine on eBay a few years ago for around $150 intact.

Tried to paint mine and after about a year or so the paint began

to bubble and peal off.  I was told that was caused by someone

in the past using Armour All on the console.

mike

 
I used some House of Kolor degreaser on mine before using the SEM Surface Prep and Metallic Black interior paint.  Worked like a champ.  

Of course, now you'll need to strip off the paint as well - good luck!  Fortunately, ABS plastic is fairly well resistant to most paint strippers.  I've heard of people using Easy-Off oven cleaner or even brake fluid with success (I would test a small unseen area first with any solution you come up with... just to be safe).  Then follow-up with a non-caustic degreaser before applying any primer or paint.

Hope this helps.

 
Another one of those not all the same then. You can see in the picture that I posted the part was not trimmed off has a molded edge. I have three cars that were one owner all had long console and all had molded straight across inserts. I suspect that this was made to fit other years and just tell people Ford trimmed them off. I had three of the plates and sold one to a member but none show signs of being cut off. I have one that somebody drilled holes in for some reason it does not have the ears either.

If you zoom in on the picture of the back side you can see the molded edge goes all the way around the part, not just a flat part. If it had been cut off there would be no molded edge. I think the repo people just did not want to make both parts so they lied as usual, lol.

If Ford did cut them off it would have been an arbor or air press with a die. They do very little by eye of anything even back the.

I will for sure dig one out and look closer. My pictures suck for sure. Broke the good camera.

 
I will for sure dig one out and look closer. My pictures suck for sure. Broke the good camera.
Who, or what, were you taking the picture of that broke your camera? I've had people tell me that if I took their picture it would likely be too much for the camera and break it. :D

 
I will for sure dig one out and look closer. My pictures suck for sure. Broke the good camera.
Who, or what, were you taking the picture of that broke your camera? I've had people tell me that if I took their picture it would likely be too much for the camera and break it. :D
The shutter button popped out and I could not find it, was a Sony digital that did excellent close up macro. I am using an old Nikon SLR D100 digital. Got at Goodwill for $60.00 but no good macro settings.

 
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