Has anyone temp cured painted KYB gas shock absorbers?

[California 72]

They say copying someone or something is the greatest form of flattery or praise so, I thought I would follow suit with something tpj71mach did. That was paint the shocks on that awesome Mach1 Ford Blue.
I had some VHT Old Ford Blue caliper paint from a mistake Amazon order and put it to use. The last thing on the list was the shocks and just finished those today.
The caliper pant must be cured at 200deg.F for one hour so, after sending KYB the question about the shocks ability to withstand that temp and duration, and not receiving an answer, has anyone performed this? The shocks are basically new so I'd rather not damage one or worse, since I'm using our kitchen oven, explode due to the gas inside becoming volatile.
It almost makes sense that they would, given the temps generated by the brakes, engine and roadway (summertime), especially if used in some form of motor sports but asking first, about something like this made even more sense.

 

[Spike Morelli]

I don't know this for sure, but I am going to put this out there, that the paint on your shock absorbers doesn't require temperature curing. I think I would simply clean them up completely, sand and/or scotchbrite the tubes, and use a good quality paint of your choice. The shock absorbers are far away from brake system temps. The front shocks are also encapsulated by the front coil springs, and aren't so visable, and the rear shocks have only a bit of the lower portion visable, if at all. I wouldn't get too cerebral over changing the color, just whip out a spray can and paint 'em. Believe it or not, there are classic cars that display at Pebble Beach Concours, that have very artfully "spray-bombed" various componets to perfection......and place in competition.

 

[California 72]

Spike,
I used VHT Caliper Paint, and its directions explicitly state that need to cure the item at 200deg.F., for 1-hour, or it will not be chemically resistant to anything found in normal use that would compromise the finish.

Believe me, I was really surprised at the before and after on the previous parts I did this with. It doesn't scratch after but before is a different story. Two things I had a chance encounter with for a good lesson. This is one instance where the results of the "cure" is worth it.

If following the destructions does create an issue, I understand that some, if not all the 2K paints don't need temp to cure because it's chemical by design, it was free paint, so I can just prep it to receive the new paint and clear. Given the results of the paint on other things, I wasn't going to clear these but that's also a possibility with a 2k clear.

 

[Sheriff41]

Summer temperatures in the southwest reach 110°F to 120°F so I would expect the undercar temps of a driven vehicle would be much higher. Shocks hold up well under these conditions. That said, the KYB MSDA <https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/MSDA_1118.pdf> states do not store at temperatures above 122°F.

I would not cook the shocks at 200°F. Find a paint better suited to your application.

 

[California 72]

Summer temperatures in the southwest reach 110°F to 120°F so I would expect the undercar temps of a driven vehicle would be much higher. Shocks hold up well under these conditions. That said, the KYB MSDA <https://www.kyb.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/11/MSDA_1118.pdf> states do not store at temperatures above 122°F.

I would not cook the shocks at 200°F. Find a paint better suited to your application.

Well? It's kind of like the guy asking his maker for help with something and the maker sends 3 messages to save the poor soul and yet still ended up meeting his maker. That was actually a decent episode of the West Wing too.

Anyhow, KYB replied and said basically the same thing so, we're not going to ignore the advice and end up causing a calamity. I actually made the decision to err on the side of caution and just repaint them after seeing the email so Sheriff's post is just cementing it in. Being the paint remains porous until heated, I'm thinking I don't need to strip and cover.
The whole thing spawned from good intentions in trying to save a couple bucks and make an appearance change. Now that I'm out of the caliper spray, it's not a big deal because I hadn't sprayed the rear shocks yet. They're still attached to the rear but that will probably change in the next few weeks.

Thanks gang!