Holley Sniper on a 351c

[tony-muscle]

A little lost trying to understand what you're saying. The orifice on the gas tank is too small to act as a return for the RobbMC PS tank? And the vented gas cap won't be able to prevent the gas tank from becoming pressurized?

Don and Iceberg are spot on. The nipple of the vent cap on top of the gas tank has a small orifice that reduces the diameter of the conduit. Therefore, you have to either drill the nipple or use a stock sending unit in its place. The sending unit fits right on and you can use its tubing to connect the vapor line. Whichever way you decide to go you will have to take the tank down, which should be a very easy task. The worst part of the job is draining the gasoline, specially if your tank is not empty.

I circled the vent cap we are talking about.

Awesome thank you for the diagram. So the thing you've circled is the sending unit correct? I've looked at the part, here  http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-sending-unit-1971-1973/p/FSU4/ but can't seem to figure out where the vent orifice is (I'm new to all this thanks for your patience).. And what you're saying is to add a second sending unit to use for the return line?  I was planning to do the install without removing the tank, but if I'm going to have to take it out regardless do you guys think I should abandon the surge tank setup and go with an in-tank pump like a Tanks Inc one instead?

EDIT: So my understanding is the FiTech Command Center needs a vent line not a return line like the PowerSurge, so would the FiTech vent line work with the smaller orifice as it is only returning fumes and a limited amount of liquid gas?  The PS requires a minimum 1/4" return line back to the tank, so I'm assuming the orifice is smaller than that and that's why you guys are concerned?

EDIT 2: Also was thinking, could I just plug the current vent orifice and weld a bung onto the filler neck and connect my vent line to that instead? Would be easy to do and eliminate the need to empty/cut the gas tank up.

Thanks for the help,

Adam

Adam,

The sending unit you refer to is located on the lower right side of the tank (as looking to the diagram, which would be the driver's side). If you look at the tank in your car, the sending unit will be near the exhaust pipe in the driver's side. The vent cap will be on top of the tank. You should be able to see the vent line coming from the top of the tank if you look underneath the car, in front of the tank. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the vent cap, but this thread has a picture: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-gas-tank-fuel-vapor-separator

My suggestion to use a sending unit in place of the vent cap it's just because it fits nicely there. In this case you will be using the sending unit just for the tubing and not for the float. Therefore, you will remove the float and electronics from that sending unit. It's the perfect opportunity to use an old sending unit. Beware with the sending unit from CJPonny. Been there, tried that! I used theirs and leaked right away. I ended up purchasing one from Don from Ohio Mustang. It worked flawlessly.

You are right about the FCC needing just a vent, but I know they had some problems, which I think they already figured out. I like the idea of the PowerSurge better because having a return to the tank helps cool down the gas, plus if something goes wrong, the FCC will "overflow" gas through the vent. I did a lot of research and reading before making my decision.

Yes in regards to the orifice in the vent cap, it's much less than 1/4".

You can connect the vent to the filler neck, but it is much easier to just use a vented gas cap. In my case I used the original cap, but modified it to allow venting.

Taking the tank down is fairly easy and can be done by one person. You then can check the filler neck gasket, filler neck for rust, and sending unit for issues. If your tank is very full, you can try siphoning gasoline through the filler neck, or just remove the fuel hose to the sending unit and drain it through there. If it has a little of gas, you could plug the hose of the sending unit and lower the tank, but it is a lot easier to handle the tank mostly empty. You can lower it onto wood blocks, or onto a garage jack to help bringing it down.

EDIT: PS: don't light a cigarette while doing the job, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Oh, also, disconnect the battery.

 

[iceberg65]

It's really not difficult to drop the tank (as long as the strap bolts aren't stuck like mine were); to drain it just pull the hose off the fuel feed line and let it drain, as long as the fuel level is higher then the fuel outlet port it will continue draining until its empty, if the tank is almost empty you have to get some siphon action going to get it going to get the last few gallons out.

As far as fuel systems go; if you need to run a return line I would say just build a full return fuel system. Keep in mind that having any fuel lines inside the trans tunnel is not allowed if you ever want to take it to any race events (not a concern for everyone). My system came with a inline walbro 255 and regulator so that's what I went with for building my fuel system around. I maybe spend another ~$150 on fittings and lines.

Many people doing efi also go the route of using a regulated LS fuel filter; The fuel filter also acts as the regulator and has a return line off of it that goes back to the tank (can be a very short run). They do need to be run at 58psi though (which the sniper can probably be programmed for) They run $180 bucks for -6 adapter fittings, the pump and the filter/regulator.

Sorry if I got off topic as it seems like your want one of the surge tank fueling solutions. But it also seems you may be considering all your fueling options at this time.

 

[tony-muscle]

As far as fuel systems go; if you need to run a return line I would say just build a full return fuel system. Keep in mind that having any fuel lines inside the trans tunnel is not allowed if you ever want to take it to any race events (not a concern for everyone). 

Excellent point. I didn't think about this issue, but it makes sense in case something goes wrong with the shaft. I guess I won't be racing.

 

[NewAgeMuscle]

Don and Iceberg are spot on. The nipple of the vent cap on top of the gas tank has a small orifice that reduces the diameter of the conduit. Therefore, you have to either drill the nipple or use a stock sending unit in its place. The sending unit fits right on and you can use its tubing to connect the vapor line. Whichever way you decide to go you will have to take the tank down, which should be a very easy task. The worst part of the job is draining the gasoline, specially if your tank is not empty.

I circled the vent cap we are talking about.

Awesome thank you for the diagram. So the thing you've circled is the sending unit correct? I've looked at the part, here  http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-sending-unit-1971-1973/p/FSU4/ but can't seem to figure out where the vent orifice is (I'm new to all this thanks for your patience).. And what you're saying is to add a second sending unit to use for the return line?  I was planning to do the install without removing the tank, but if I'm going to have to take it out regardless do you guys think I should abandon the surge tank setup and go with an in-tank pump like a Tanks Inc one instead?

EDIT: So my understanding is the FiTech Command Center needs a vent line not a return line like the PowerSurge, so would the FiTech vent line work with the smaller orifice as it is only returning fumes and a limited amount of liquid gas?  The PS requires a minimum 1/4" return line back to the tank, so I'm assuming the orifice is smaller than that and that's why you guys are concerned?

EDIT 2: Also was thinking, could I just plug the current vent orifice and weld a bung onto the filler neck and connect my vent line to that instead? Would be easy to do and eliminate the need to empty/cut the gas tank up.

Thanks for the help,

Adam

Adam,

The sending unit you refer to is located on the lower right side of the tank (as looking to the diagram, which would be the driver's side). If you look at the tank in your car, the sending unit will be near the exhaust pipe in the driver's side. The vent cap will be on top of the tank. You should be able to see the vent line coming from the top of the tank if you look underneath the car, in front of the tank. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the vent cap, but this thread has a picture: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-gas-tank-fuel-vapor-separator

My suggestion to use a sending unit in place of the vent cap it's just because it fits nicely there. In this case you will be using the sending unit just for the tubing and not for the float. Therefore, you will remove the float and electronics from that sending unit. It's the perfect opportunity to use an old sending unit. Beware with the sending unit from CJPonny. Been there, tried that! I used theirs and leaked right away. I ended up purchasing one from Don from Ohio Mustang. It worked flawlessly.

You are right about the FCC needing just a vent, but I know they had some problems, which I think they already figured out. I like the idea of the PowerSurge better because having a return to the tank helps cool down the gas, plus if something goes wrong, the FCC will "overflow" gas through the vent. I did a lot of research and reading before making my decision.

Yes in regards to the orifice in the vent cap, it's much less than 1/4".

You can connect the vent to the filler neck, but it is much easier to just use a vented gas cap. In my case I used the original cap, but modified it to allow venting.

Taking the tank down is fairly easy and can be done by one person. You then can check the filler neck gasket, filler neck for rust, and sending unit for issues. If your tank is very full, you can try siphoning gasoline through the filler neck, or just remove the fuel hose to the sending unit and drain it through there. If it has a little of gas, you could plug the hose of the sending unit and lower the tank, but it is a lot easier to handle the tank mostly empty. You can lower it onto wood blocks, or onto a garage jack to help bringing it down.

EDIT: PS: don't light a cigarette while doing the job, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Oh, also, disconnect the battery.

Wow that makes a lot more sense now thank you for taking the time to write that, for some reason I was under the impression the vent cap and the sending unit were from the same hole in the tank. If it is the case that I can just remove the stock vent cap and put in another sending unit (minus the electronics and the float) without any modification to the hole, that is definitley the path I will take. Then I simply connect the charcoal canister line to the new sending unit (with some modification) and connect that to the PowerSurge? 

Thank you for all your advice and input I will be sure not to light a match while working on the fuel system  lollerz 

Adam

 

[tony-muscle]

Awesome thank you for the diagram. So the thing you've circled is the sending unit correct? I've looked at the part, here  http://www.cjponyparts.com/fuel-tank-sending-unit-1971-1973/p/FSU4/ but can't seem to figure out where the vent orifice is (I'm new to all this thanks for your patience).. And what you're saying is to add a second sending unit to use for the return line?  I was planning to do the install without removing the tank, but if I'm going to have to take it out regardless do you guys think I should abandon the surge tank setup and go with an in-tank pump like a Tanks Inc one instead?

EDIT: So my understanding is the FiTech Command Center needs a vent line not a return line like the PowerSurge, so would the FiTech vent line work with the smaller orifice as it is only returning fumes and a limited amount of liquid gas?  The PS requires a minimum 1/4" return line back to the tank, so I'm assuming the orifice is smaller than that and that's why you guys are concerned?

EDIT 2: Also was thinking, could I just plug the current vent orifice and weld a bung onto the filler neck and connect my vent line to that instead? Would be easy to do and eliminate the need to empty/cut the gas tank up.

Thanks for the help,

Adam

Adam,

The sending unit you refer to is located on the lower right side of the tank (as looking to the diagram, which would be the driver's side). If you look at the tank in your car, the sending unit will be near the exhaust pipe in the driver's side. The vent cap will be on top of the tank. You should be able to see the vent line coming from the top of the tank if you look underneath the car, in front of the tank. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the vent cap, but this thread has a picture: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-gas-tank-fuel-vapor-separator

My suggestion to use a sending unit in place of the vent cap it's just because it fits nicely there. In this case you will be using the sending unit just for the tubing and not for the float. Therefore, you will remove the float and electronics from that sending unit. It's the perfect opportunity to use an old sending unit. Beware with the sending unit from CJPonny. Been there, tried that! I used theirs and leaked right away. I ended up purchasing one from Don from Ohio Mustang. It worked flawlessly.

You are right about the FCC needing just a vent, but I know they had some problems, which I think they already figured out. I like the idea of the PowerSurge better because having a return to the tank helps cool down the gas, plus if something goes wrong, the FCC will "overflow" gas through the vent. I did a lot of research and reading before making my decision.

Yes in regards to the orifice in the vent cap, it's much less than 1/4".

You can connect the vent to the filler neck, but it is much easier to just use a vented gas cap. In my case I used the original cap, but modified it to allow venting.

Taking the tank down is fairly easy and can be done by one person. You then can check the filler neck gasket, filler neck for rust, and sending unit for issues. If your tank is very full, you can try siphoning gasoline through the filler neck, or just remove the fuel hose to the sending unit and drain it through there. If it has a little of gas, you could plug the hose of the sending unit and lower the tank, but it is a lot easier to handle the tank mostly empty. You can lower it onto wood blocks, or onto a garage jack to help bringing it down.

EDIT: PS: don't light a cigarette while doing the job, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Oh, also, disconnect the battery.

Wow that makes a lot more sense now thank you for taking the time to write that, for some reason I was under the impression the vent cap and the sending unit were from the same hole in the tank. If it is the case that I can just remove the stock vent cap and put in another sending unit (minus the electronics and the float) without any modification to the hole, that is definitley the path I will take. Then I simply connect the charcoal canister line to the new sending unit (with some modification) and connect that to the PowerSurge? 

Thank you for all your advice and input I will be sure not to light a match while working on the fuel system  lollerz 

Adam

When you install the sending unit at the top you may want to bend the connecting nipple down as much as you can in order to reduce the possibility of it hitting the underside of the trunk floor. Also, make sure your tank has the pads that sit between the tank and trunk floor because they will serve as spacers. Couple more tips, since you are taking the tank down make sure to replace all the hoses that connect to the tank. And, also run some gasoline through the vent line all the way from the engine to the rear to make sure it is clear of debris. Since this was a vent line it may have some junk in there that you don't want back in the tank. What I did is to temporarily connect the feed line from the mechanical pump directly to the vent line in the engine side, and then cranked the engine in 10 second intervals until I got clean gasoline coming out the other end. In the rear I just inserted the hose in a juice container from the trash to collect the gasoline.

 

[TommyK]

There has been some discussion in this thread about drilling the vent cap on top of the tank to act as a return fuel line.

My understanding is the McRobb surge tank requires a 1/4" return. I drilled my vent cap last fall (not for an efi return) and the largest diameter I felt it would accommodate based on the thickness of the metal was 3/16". I think you would be hard pressed to drill it a true 1/4" without breaking through or cracking it.

YMMV.

Alternatively, here is a relatively simple way to add a return.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-65385/overview/

 

[NewAgeMuscle]

Adam,

The sending unit you refer to is located on the lower right side of the tank (as looking to the diagram, which would be the driver's side). If you look at the tank in your car, the sending unit will be near the exhaust pipe in the driver's side. The vent cap will be on top of the tank. You should be able to see the vent line coming from the top of the tank if you look underneath the car, in front of the tank. Sorry, I don't have a picture of the vent cap, but this thread has a picture: https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-73-gas-tank-fuel-vapor-separator

My suggestion to use a sending unit in place of the vent cap it's just because it fits nicely there. In this case you will be using the sending unit just for the tubing and not for the float. Therefore, you will remove the float and electronics from that sending unit. It's the perfect opportunity to use an old sending unit. Beware with the sending unit from CJPonny. Been there, tried that! I used theirs and leaked right away. I ended up purchasing one from Don from Ohio Mustang. It worked flawlessly.

You are right about the FCC needing just a vent, but I know they had some problems, which I think they already figured out. I like the idea of the PowerSurge better because having a return to the tank helps cool down the gas, plus if something goes wrong, the FCC will "overflow" gas through the vent. I did a lot of research and reading before making my decision.

Yes in regards to the orifice in the vent cap, it's much less than 1/4".

You can connect the vent to the filler neck, but it is much easier to just use a vented gas cap. In my case I used the original cap, but modified it to allow venting.

Taking the tank down is fairly easy and can be done by one person. You then can check the filler neck gasket, filler neck for rust, and sending unit for issues. If your tank is very full, you can try siphoning gasoline through the filler neck, or just remove the fuel hose to the sending unit and drain it through there. If it has a little of gas, you could plug the hose of the sending unit and lower the tank, but it is a lot easier to handle the tank mostly empty. You can lower it onto wood blocks, or onto a garage jack to help bringing it down.

EDIT: PS: don't light a cigarette while doing the job, and keep a fire extinguisher nearby just in case. Oh, also, disconnect the battery.

Wow that makes a lot more sense now thank you for taking the time to write that, for some reason I was under the impression the vent cap and the sending unit were from the same hole in the tank. If it is the case that I can just remove the stock vent cap and put in another sending unit (minus the electronics and the float) without any modification to the hole, that is definitley the path I will take. Then I simply connect the charcoal canister line to the new sending unit (with some modification) and connect that to the PowerSurge? 

Thank you for all your advice and input I will be sure not to light a match while working on the fuel system  lollerz 

Adam

When you install the sending unit at the top you may want to bend the connecting nipple down as much as you can in order to reduce the possibility of it hitting the underside of the trunk floor. Also, make sure your tank has the pads that sit between the tank and trunk floor because they will serve as spacers. Couple more tips, since you are taking the tank down make sure to replace all the hoses that connect to the tank. And, also run some gasoline through the vent line all the way from the engine to the rear to make sure it is clear of debris. Since this was a vent line it may have some junk in there that you don't want back in the tank. What I did is to temporarily connect the feed line from the mechanical pump directly to the vent line in the engine side, and then cranked the engine in 10 second intervals until I got clean gasoline coming out the other end. In the rear I just inserted the hose in a juice container from the trash to collect the gasoline.

I will check everything again as a precautionary measure and will definitely make sure the nipple isn't hitting the trunk. I forgot to mention earlier that the gas tank and everything are brand new from when my dad and I restored/refreshed the car when I was 15 so not too worried about rust since we painted it. I'm 19 now and am starting to actually try and learn about / build my car independently. Since it was 4 years ago and I didn't pay close attention, I have forgotten everything about the tank vent cap etc. 

Once I have everything ordered and shipped to my place, I'll be uploading photos/videos and hopefully with the help from the awesome people on this forum will have a running clevo on Holley Sniper EFI. Thanks again for the help and care Tony, I will keep ya updated!

Much appreciated,

Adam

 

[NewAgeMuscle]

There has been some discussion in this thread about drilling the vent cap on top of the tank to act as a return fuel line.

My understanding is the McRobb surge tank requires a 1/4" return. I drilled my vent cap last fall (not for an efi return) and the largest diameter I felt it would accommodate based on the thickness of the metal was 3/16". I think you would be hard pressed to drill it a true 1/4" without breaking through or cracking it.

YMMV.

Alternatively, here is a relatively simple way to add a return.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-65385/overview/

Interesting product! So basically this does what I was suggesting before by welding a bung/nipple onto the filler neck, except you cut part of the filler neck out and put this in correct?

 

[tony-muscle]

There has been some discussion in this thread about drilling the vent cap on top of the tank to act as a return fuel line.

My understanding is the McRobb surge tank requires a 1/4" return. I drilled my vent cap last fall (not for an efi return) and the largest diameter I felt it would accommodate based on the thickness of the metal was 3/16". I think you would be hard pressed to drill it a true 1/4" without breaking through or cracking it.

YMMV.

Alternatively, here is a relatively simple way to add a return.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-65385/overview/

Interesting product! So basically this does what I was suggesting before by welding a bung/nipple onto the filler neck, except you cut part of the filler neck out and put this in correct?

I looked at that alternative, but i felt it was more invasive to the car than just replacing the vent cap with an old sending unit. Points to consider are the fact that the line will go through the trunk and you need to cut your original filler neck.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[tony-muscle]

There has been some discussion in this thread about drilling the vent cap on top of the tank to act as a return fuel line.

My understanding is the McRobb surge tank requires a 1/4" return. I drilled my vent cap last fall (not for an efi return) and the largest diameter I felt it would accommodate based on the thickness of the metal was 3/16". I think you would be hard pressed to drill it a true 1/4" without breaking through or cracking it.

YMMV.

Alternatively, here is a relatively simple way to add a return.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-65385/overview/

Good point Tommy about the vent cap nipple diameter. Since i opted for the sending unit option i never really measured it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

 

[TommyK]

There has been some discussion in this thread about drilling the vent cap on top of the tank to act as a return fuel line.

My understanding is the McRobb surge tank requires a 1/4" return. I drilled my vent cap last fall (not for an efi return) and the largest diameter I felt it would accommodate based on the thickness of the metal was 3/16". I think you would be hard pressed to drill it a true 1/4" without breaking through or cracking it.

YMMV.

Alternatively, here is a relatively simple way to add a return.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-65385/overview/

Interesting product! So basically this does what I was suggesting before by welding a bung/nipple onto the filler neck, except you cut part of the filler neck out and put this in correct?

Yes

 

[TommyK]

There has been some discussion in this thread about drilling the vent cap on top of the tank to act as a return fuel line.

My understanding is the McRobb surge tank requires a 1/4" return. I drilled my vent cap last fall (not for an efi return) and the largest diameter I felt it would accommodate based on the thickness of the metal was 3/16". I think you would be hard pressed to drill it a true 1/4" without breaking through or cracking it.

YMMV.

Alternatively, here is a relatively simple way to add a return.

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/mor-65385/overview/

Good point Tommy about the vent cap nipple diameter. Since i opted for the sending unit option i never really measured it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

I think the way you did it is the best way. I was just offering a somewhat simpler option for those that might not want to go to the trouble of modifying the tank vent.

 

[Casperfast]

I'm about to install my FiTech and I've been reading all the posts. I bought a new tank so I could modify it for a return line. I just removed the old tank and had a hell of a time getting the filler neck out of the gasket. also, has anyone tried using the stock vent as a return?

 

[tony-muscle]

I'm about to install my FiTech  and I've been reading all the posts.  I bought a new tank so I could modify it for a return line.  I just removed the old tank and had a hell of a time getting the filler neck out of the gasket.  also,  has anyone tried using the stock vent as a return?

This is a brief on what I did, https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-has-anyone-heard-of-the-fitech-pac-efi-unit?page=8

Somewhere I have more details, but basically I used the top vent port as return. However, if you use the stock vent you will have to drill the fitting since it has a very small hole that acts as a restrictor inside it. That said, I didn't use the stock vent, but rather I installed an old sending unit at the top port of the tank to use it as a return. I removed the float and electronics out of the sending unit and left the tube. The other advantage is that, inside the tank, now your fuel will return through the tube into the fuel, instead of "cascading" from the top vent over the fuel, if that makes sense.

 

[Fabrice]

You might be interested by this thread

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-holley-sniper-efi-and-robbmc-surge-tank-351c-and-fmx?page=9&highlight=holley+sniper

In my experience, using the top vent for return line boils down to this:

- if you can get your hands on a fuel sending (new/old/defect)

remove the old vent, insert the tube+plate (see picts in thread)

- if you have a welding machine and no sending unit

its a basic plate + bended tube. Save your money by cutting a plate based on your vent shape.

drill a hole pass a bended tube thru it, weld the tube on plate and you done.

I have seen while busy threads on forums where guys were claiming reusing the old vent line: do not!

Even if it "looks" fine, it is full of crap/rust inside. Add a new return line not following the tunnel route.

 

[tony-muscle]

You might be interested by this thread

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-holley-sniper-efi-and-robbmc-surge-tank-351c-and-fmx?page=9&highlight=holley+sniper

In my experience, using the top vent for return line boils down to this:

- if you can get your hands on a fuel sending (new/old/defect)

remove the old vent, insert the tube+plate (see picts in thread)

- if you have a welding machine and no sending unit

its a basic plate + bended tube. Save your money by cutting a plate based on your vent shape.

drill a hole pass a bended tube thru it, weld the tube on plate and you done.

I have seen while busy threads on forums where guys were claiming reusing the old vent line: do not!

Even if it "looks" fine, it is full of crap/rust inside. Add a new return line not following the tunnel route.

Good point about the vent line being dirty. I replaced the rubber hoses but kept the steel line. I flushed the steel line with fuel until it was clean, and then more. A lot of stuff came out when flushing. Plus when I had all ready to go, I ran the starter for a couple minutes or so but with the EFI feed line connected to the return line. The idea here was to purge air out of the system, fill out the tank of the sump pump, and clean any residue that may have been left from installation.

 

[Fabrice]

Even clean, I've stamped that line unsafe for fuel transport.

For my new feed line/pump near tank, I've removed the old fuel line that was less exposed to ambient air/oxygen than the vent line, fuel prolly not always condens free.

When I saw how fragile the line that was externally looking fine and feeling robust while bolted on. How it actually was eaten from within, I've cut it on several places

and boy I was mad at myself to have kept that thing that long. I could only imagine how the vent line was after years being just plugged one engine side

and connected before that 17 years to the dirty canister.. Not even counting the very harmful residues inside.

After +-45 years of honourable service, no one will whine on Ford's quality for sure, but now, after I actually did the work to remove and install new lines myself,

and actually saw how very wrong my judgement on their state was.

I'd say: no matter the install you do, carb or EFI replace your fuel lines if they are original! Its cheap and easy to be done vs the potential danger/damage you could get from a failure/leak.

Same applies to brake lines.

just my two cents

 

[tony-muscle]

Even clean, I've stamped that line unsafe for fuel transport.

For my new feed line/pump near tank, I've removed the old fuel line that was less exposed to ambient air/oxygen than the vent line, fuel prolly not always condens free.

When I saw how fragile the line that was externally looking fine and feeling robust while bolted on. How it actually was eaten from within, I've cut it on several places

and boy I was mad at myself to have kept that thing that long.  I could only imagine how the vent line was after years being just plugged one engine side

and connected before that 17 years to the dirty canister.. Not even counting the very harmful residues inside.

After +-45 years of honourable service, no one will whine on Ford's quality for sure, but now, after I actually did the work to remove and install new lines myself,

and actually saw how very wrong my judgement on their state was.

I'd say: no matter the install you do, carb or EFI replace your fuel lines if they are original! Its cheap and easy to be done vs the potential danger/damage you could get from a failure/leak.

Same applies to brake lines.

just my two cents

Thanks for bringing this up! Now it will be the perfect time for me to replace the vapor/return line since my engine and transmission are out. I am already replacing the brake line that runs along with it so I may as well replace the fuel line. Good idea.

 

[BowdawG]

Even clean, I've stamped that line unsafe for fuel transport.

For my new feed line/pump near tank, I've removed the old fuel line that was less exposed to ambient air/oxygen than the vent line, fuel prolly not always condens free.

When I saw how fragile the line that was externally looking fine and feeling robust while bolted on. How it actually was eaten from within, I've cut it on several places

and boy I was mad at myself to have kept that thing that long.  I could only imagine how the vent line was after years being just plugged one engine side

and connected before that 17 years to the dirty canister.. Not even counting the very harmful residues inside.

After +-45 years of honourable service, no one will whine on Ford's quality for sure, but now, after I actually did the work to remove and install new lines myself,

and actually saw how very wrong my judgement on their state was.

I'd say: no matter the install you do, carb or EFI replace your fuel lines if they are original! Its cheap and easy to be done vs the potential danger/damage you could get from a failure/leak.

Same applies to brake lines.

just my two cents

I plan on using the stock steel hardline as my low-pressure return line now and running the supplied high pressure rubber line to the sniper EFI.

I tried to start my install over the weekend and instantly hit a roadblock with the return line. Did you come up with a good way to mount the sniper efi return bung? looks like there is enough clearance to the trunk floor to mount it nearby the vent, but no idea how to get tools into the tank to tighten it...

Also where have you hooked up the 12v switched power? 

Thanks!

 

[Fabrice]

@BowDawg

[i plan on using the stock steel hardline as my low-pressure return line now and running the supplied high pressure rubber line to the sniper EFI.]

Unless u are really sure its a new one. Really do not reuse any of the old line. The flow going other way, the rust inside the line (much more than you think), flushed at low carb pressure on one direction will get back into the tank. Guaranteed!

[i tried to start my install over the weekend and instantly hit a roadblock with the return line.]

hahah yes, on the promo videos its all done in 2 hours

[Did you come up with a good way to mount the sniper efi return bung? looks like there is enough clearance to the trunk floor to mount it nearby the vent, but no idea how to get tools into the tank to tighten it...]

In my install, i've replaced the vent by a sending unit. On this point, I can tell you, while its a good idea that fits our tanks. If you don't have an old sending unit but have a welding machine. Use the old vent for ref. Cut a plate of metal that fits, drill a hole in it and bent a tube, and weld it to it. Thats all you need really.

I did the way I did, because I had no idea. And just like every first time, you learn from it.

[Also where have you hooked up the 12v switched power? ]

In this thread, I've detailed the tank vent part that I did and that electrical part too.

You will see more installs and variations of the install, different solutions/roads taken by the owners.

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-holley-sniper-efi-and-robbmc-surge-tank-351c-and-fmx?pid=305177#pid305177