Just to verify the likely source of the oil leak

[Steve McMahan]

When I first put my 5.0l from a 1987 Tbird into my 1973 coupe, and started it for the first time, I discovered it had a slight leak where typically the rear main seal on these cars leak. It wasn’t until just a couple days ago, when I pulled the engine out, pulled off the transmission, and pulled the flywheel off that I noticed that the oil was between the inside face of the flywheel and the face of the crank. So it seems like my leak really is coming from the flywheel to crank bolts and not from the rear main seal. All around the rear main seal there was no sign of any leak. The reason this is important is because I pulled the engine to fix this leak and since I had it out, you know, etc. Now I’m thinking maybe I’ll just put it back into my convertible and run it until I have the rest of the car done and then pull it and do all the performance stuff I was thinking about doing. What do you guys think?

 

[Sheriff41]

Yes, use a little Permatex Form-a-Gasket #2 on the flywheel/flex plate bolt threads to seal them up.

 

[Hemikiller]

Since you're there, I'd replace the seal.

 

[Steve McMahan]

Back when I first started this project, I did replace the seal. I’ve got about 100 hours on my workbench rebuild (oil pump, new pickup screen, hardened distributor drive shaft, rear main, and water pump. I also plastic gauged the thrust main and two rods and surprisingly, all were in spec; 78k on the engine from the original owner). So, while I could, I think I’m going to pass on the RMS replacement. I just can’t believe I didn’t put thread seal on those bolts. Getting old; that’s my only excuse.

 

[giantpune]

You just helped remind everybody else why we put sealant on those bolts.
They go all the way through, and there's oil on the back side.