Keep it original?

[Mister 4x4]

I vote new intake and sniper EFI with holley distributor so sniper can control timing as well. $1500 and that car will be so much more enjoyable. I know most of this forum are die hard carb guys but do some research about the sniper before you run out and buy a new carb...

Ain't nothing wrong with EFI... except the cost if there's any kind of budget involved.  I'm also a big fan of it myself - still need to install the Edelbrock E-Street on mine... to which, I'm basically waiting for the declaration that I'm no longer 'mission essential.'     :whistling:

Until then however, the Edelbrock 1406 is doin' just fine.  

 

[Stillakid54]

Given it's history and mileage I would also personally keep the appearance as original as possible. If internal modifications can be made to make it a better running car, I would consider those changes.

 

[cv_72mustang]

I would not touch it! Just maintenance and enjoy driving it.

 

[detritusmaximus]

I'd say original-ish...get rid of the retarded cam and put in 70-71 flat top pistons. Maybe a factory style dual exhaust. That would give you some power back without changing anything on the outside.

 

[George 73 Mach 1]

New to this site/forum. Just obtained a bone stock 1973 Mach 1 H code. Even has original radio. Today I learned about timing lol. Found out the 6’ BTDC is super retarded. Set at 12’ and it runs much better at idle and vacuum advance inop. Goosed to 3500 rpm and timing around 36 BTDC with vacuum advance operational. No pinging.

Keep original?

Question: I hear these 2V heads are decent for low end torque and performance. What would you recommend to get some more HP and mid to high rpm performance? Or should the heads be scrapped altogether in the process?

Learning about these 351 Cleveland’s and think there is potential here

Thanks

 

[droptop73]

It all boils down to what do you plan to do with the car? If you're gonna cruise around town and attend a few shows you don't need to do much. These are decent performing cars that drive very well for nearly 50 year old machines. Do what YOU want to do.

As for my combination, it's an H code 2v. First with the 2v heads, compare the intake and exhaust ports to any SBC, breathing is not gonna be an issue for decent performance. Mine uses a Performer intake and a 650ish CFM carb (which is a story in itself) and a 268 Comp cam. It has very smooth power and great driveability with a slight chop at idle. A good factory style dual 2-1/4" exhaust with Magnaflow mufflers connected to the stock manifolds. I believe headers are not worth the extra maintenance involved for the minor performance gain not because I'm a purist by any means. For the record, I drive my car a ton. It'll see from 5 to 8k miles a year depending on where Power Tour takes us.

IMO, performance means power, driveability and to a point economy.

But to originality... I remember an ad in one of my 70s car magazines that said "Sure its a great car dad, I just made it BETTER". LOL!

 

[MustangNJ]

I had to ask myself the same question this past Fall when I wanted more power. I have a 73 Mexican Mach 1, of which only 300 were made. prob far fewer with the 4spd and factory AC like mine. anyway, I knew I wanted 500-600hp. I could have the stock motor built, or I could get a crate motor. I decided on a crate 418 550hp. I'm very happy with the decision, its a great driver. I decided that my car will never be a collectible. it would need a full restoration for that, and while I have replaced/upgraded many things, the car will never be a shiny showroom piece. for that reason, the engine swap made sense for me

 

[MikeGriese]

My '71 convertible was a bone stock 250 straight 6 with a 3-speed. It was light blue, white standard interior with a black top and white boot cover. The engine was seized when I bought it in 1980 from the original owner (literally an old maid schoolteacher). The jack fell out of the car when I towed it home. To get it running, I took it to an outfit in St. Louis for an engine swap (another 250 I6). A coworker of my mother fixed the rust and repainted it in the original color. I drove it that way for 30 years until the doors started to close hard. It is now into it's 9th year of a nut and bolt restoration, however I am building the car I want, using all Ford parts wherever possible, either NOS, reconditioned OEM or Ford authorized reproduction (a lot easier to do now than when I started). It will have AC, PS, PDB, gauges, Ram Air, power windows, Grabber Blue with Argent stripes, white deluxe interior, black top with a Boss 302 engine and 4-speed close ratio transmission. Ford never produced one like it. So, it won't be original as Ford built it at the factory, but it will be "original" in that it will have as much period Ford content as possible in as close to original finishes as possible (less the factory installed rust).

 

[MKSpeedlab]

Im with the restomod crowd. As others have said, you have to decide what you want out of the car. If you plan to sell it for as much as possible, keep it original. But personally with mine, I want to enjoy it for as long as possible, and maybe even one day pass it down to my kids. So I dont have any problems changing stuff up on mine. I want to try to keep some things period correct, but at the same time I plan on a Sniper EFI setup so I can enjoy driving it more. But I have never been one who believes in garage queens, I enjoy driving the cars I own too much to let them hide their lives away in a garage.

 

[mach71351c]

Throw a set 3.25 or 3.50s out back. That will wake it up.  ::thumb::