Lower Trunk Corners

[Darren 72]

Been off this site for awhile. Just got back to working on the 72. It looks like the back trunk corners aren't available. Its the lower corners where the rubber molding attaches. It appears that the lip on the tail light panel is included and is available but the corners are not. Anyone else have to deal with this?

 

[Mister 4x4]

Been off this site for awhile. Just got back to working on the 72. It looks like the back trunk corners aren't available. Its the lower corners where the rubber molding attaches. It appears that the lip on the tail light panel is included and is available but the corners are not. Anyone else have to deal with this?

If you're talking about the area below the marker lights that wrap around underneath to the trunk drop-offs, those are indeed included as part of the repop full quarter panels. I don't know if they come as part of a half-panel or repair-panel type piece or not.

Well, looks like NPD's got 'em. You might check with Don @ OMS - he might have a line on them as well with better pricing.

http://www.npdlink.com/store/index.php?search_str=&search_in=all&p=catalog&mode=catalog&parent=2922&year=1971&CatalogSetSortBy=name&CatalogSetView=Thumb1

 

[marks73]

+1 to that. Dons line at OMS are very good.

 

[c9zx]

If you are talking about the tight radius lip that the rubber seal attaches to, it is a matter of tricky and aggravating sheet metal forming and getting the heat and wire speed right (use small wire, .023 or so) followed by careful grinder and hand file work. I'm sure there is an easier way to do it but, that is the best I could come up with at the time and it did work. Chuck

 

[Mister 4x4]

If you are talking about the tight radius lip that the rubber seal attaches to, it is a matter of tricky and aggravating sheet metal forming and getting the heat and wire speed right (use small wire, .023 or so) followed by careful grinder and hand file work. I'm sure there is an easier way to do it but, that is the best I could come up with at the time and it did work. Chuck

Oh! THAT part. Yeah... you'll need to get creative on that. I went the route of having a local 'yard whack off those parts so I could graft them back in on mine. I believe the driver side piece I received is still pretty much intact, and if it'll help your project, you can have it.

Here's how bad mine was and what I did to fix it:

"new part" (passenger side) hacked off the 'yard car:

Removed the bad stuff:

Welded in the 'new' piece:

The 'new' piece was just a little short, so I made this piece to fill the gap:

 

[Darren 72]

If you are talking about the tight radius lip that the rubber seal attaches to, it is a matter of tricky and aggravating sheet metal forming and getting the heat and wire speed right (use small wire, .023 or so) followed by careful grinder and hand file work. I'm sure there is an easier way to do it but, that is the best I could come up with at the time and it did work. Chuck

Oh! THAT part. Yeah... you'll need to get creative on that. I went the route of having a local 'yard whack off those parts so I could graft them back in on mine. I believe the driver side piece I received is still pretty much intact, and if it'll help your project, you can have it.

Here's how bad mine was and what I did to fix it:

"new part" (passenger side) hacked off the 'yard car:

Removed the bad stuff:

Welded in the 'new' piece:

The 'new' piece was just a little short, so I made this piece to fill the gap:

Thanks for the help. Is the drivers side in good shape? Lip in tact?

If you are talking about the tight radius lip that the rubber seal attaches to, it is a matter of tricky and aggravating sheet metal forming and getting the heat and wire speed right (use small wire, .023 or so) followed by careful grinder and hand file work. I'm sure there is an easier way to do it but, that is the best I could come up with at the time and it did work. Chuck

Oh! THAT part. Yeah... you'll need to get creative on that. I went the route of having a local 'yard whack off those parts so I could graft them back in on mine. I believe the driver side piece I received is still pretty much intact, and if it'll help your project, you can have it.

Here's how bad mine was and what I did to fix it:

"new part" (passenger side) hacked off the 'yard car:

Removed the bad stuff:

Welded in the 'new' piece:

The 'new' piece was just a little short, so I made this piece to fill the gap:

Thanks that's nice work you did.

If you are talking about the tight radius lip that the rubber seal attaches to, it is a matter of tricky and aggravating sheet metal forming and getting the heat and wire speed right (use small wire, .023 or so) followed by careful grinder and hand file work. I'm sure there is an easier way to do it but, that is the best I could come up with at the time and it did work. Chuck

Oh! THAT part. Yeah... you'll need to get creative on that. I went the route of having a local 'yard whack off those parts so I could graft them back in on mine. I believe the driver side piece I received is still pretty much intact, and if it'll help your project, you can have it.

Here's how bad mine was and what I did to fix it:

"new part" (passenger side) hacked off the 'yard car:

Removed the bad stuff:

Welded in the 'new' piece:

The 'new' piece was just a little short, so I made this piece to fill the gap:

Thanks for the help. Is the drivers side in good shape? Lip in tact?

If you are talking about the tight radius lip that the rubber seal attaches to, it is a matter of tricky and aggravating sheet metal forming and getting the heat and wire speed right (use small wire, .023 or so) followed by careful grinder and hand file work. I'm sure there is an easier way to do it but, that is the best I could come up with at the time and it did work. Chuck

Oh! THAT part. Yeah... you'll need to get creative on that. I went the route of having a local 'yard whack off those parts so I could graft them back in on mine. I believe the driver side piece I received is still pretty much intact, and if it'll help your project, you can have it.

Here's how bad mine was and what I did to fix it:

"new part" (passenger side) hacked off the 'yard car:

Removed the bad stuff:

Welded in the 'new' piece:

The 'new' piece was just a little short, so I made this piece to fill the gap:

Thanks that's nice work you did.

It always amazes me that they don't reproduce some of the simplest parts.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'll hafta check the drive side part when I get back to the shop (hopefully sometime this week). It's pretty much the same cut as the passenger side was, so there will most likely be a gap that you'll have to fill much like I did. It was easy because it was such a short and mostly straight run - just a small piece of sheet metal and bent effectively into a ? shape, then tweaked to fit into the area and welded down. As for the radius parts, I don't see how that would be able with simple tools.

 

[Qcode351mach]

As for the radius parts, I don't see how that would be able with simple tools.

Very simple you can make it in multiple pieces..then weld together as one kinda like what I did for my windshield channel piece

 

[Mister 4x4]

As for the radius parts, I don't see how that would be able with simple tools.

Very simple you can make it in multiple pieces..then weld together as one kinda like what I did for my windshield channel piece

Well, there is THAT.

When I get back to the shop, I should have the piece he needs (same as the one for the passenger side) that he could simply graft in without having to fabricate as much.

 

[mustang7173]

Yep, Qcode351Mach is Da Man! Look like nobody is reproducing the Quarter Panel Extension Bracket nor the lower trunk corners for either the coupe or the fastback models. I did put in a question to Joe of Dynacorn.

mustang7173