Melted wire (pics included) DBElectrical mini-starter

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That should only be the switched source for the solenoid. I have been running a DB Electric starter for 5 years or so with no issues. Are you sure you have it connected to the correct post on the starter? Call DB Electric and talk to them about it.
How is yours wired to the batt? Got pics?

Thanks.
10 gauge wire from ignition side of solenoid to small post on starter. 2 gauge wire from battery side of solenoid to large stud on starter. There is a third stud on the starter but nothing is supposed to go to it.

I'll see what I can do for pics.

Edit: Here is a pic of the solenoid. Pic of starter is tough with the big block and headers.



The red wire on the right side of the solenoid with the blue shrink tubing is the switched source that goes to the small lug on the starter. You can see the positive cable on my battery which is black (I know it should be red and may be confusing) goes to the left side of the solenoid. The other heavy black wire you see going from the left side of the solenoid is power to the starter (I know, confusing).

HTH
Could the large pos cable go straight from the battery post to the starter lug and eliminate a potential amperage drop at the solenoid? Would still need a cable from the pos battery post to the solenoid though.

 
How is yours wired to the batt? Got pics?

Thanks.
10 gauge wire from ignition side of solenoid to small post on starter. 2 gauge wire from battery side of solenoid to large stud on starter. There is a third stud on the starter but nothing is supposed to go to it.

I'll see what I can do for pics.

Edit: Here is a pic of the solenoid. Pic of starter is tough with the big block and headers.



The red wire on the right side of the solenoid with the blue shrink tubing is the switched source that goes to the small lug on the starter. You can see the positive cable on my battery which is black (I know it should be red and may be confusing) goes to the left side of the solenoid. The other heavy black wire you see going from the left side of the solenoid is power to the starter (I know, confusing).

HTH
Could the large pos cable go straight from the battery post to the starter lug and eliminate a potential amperage drop at the solenoid? Would still need a cable from the pos battery post to the solenoid though.
It is essentially doing just that. Current is not going through the solenoid. The solenoid was simply a convenient place to hook the two cables together.

 
Based on the pictures Tommy K provided I see that I had the thicker gauge on the ignition side (right side as you face it) of the solenoid. I'm sure it's hooked up to the starter at the proper location but I definitely had the lighter and heavier cables flip flopped.

No doubt that's what caused my cable to melt. Thank you for the pic Tommy, it clears up the problem.

 
I have mine wired with a jumper from the main battery cable terminal at the starter to the start terminal on the starter solenoid (approximately 2" long). When you turn the key the stock start wire energizes the original solenoid on the apron which in turn energizes the starter and solenoid at the same time. I hope this makes sense.
Do you have any problems with your starter staying engaged after you let go of the key? You're not supposed to jump the solenoid like that on a PMGR starter as it can cause it to stay engaged after the key is released.
It does take a split second to stop. How does running a seperate wire from the solenoid make a difference? Maybe I need to do a little re-wiring.

 
It was explained to me, that the spinning down of the motor can act like a generator, and keep the solenoid engaged late. Since those starters use the solenoid to throw out the bendix, it stays engaged. I made that mistake when I first put one in my BroncoII. I ran the separate wire and it quit hanging.

 
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