New car

[Zach145]

You have joined a great group - take the time to listen and absorb what others have to offer. There are no agendas here just good advice. We have all learned somethings the hard way and are willing to share.

Coming from possibly the oldest member here: (I voted for Eisenhower)

Only one time in many many Mustang purchases has a private seller intentionally tried to rip me off. I have met many that were overly optimistic about what they thought they had but only the one that was overtly crooked.

When I confronted him he finally admitted that his son was ripped off by a used car lot and they were just trying to get their money back. I ended up buying the car but for 1/5th of what they were asking. It was a parts car and I paid a parts car price for it.

You could absolutely restore this car.

What is a good condition base model coupe worth according to the price guides? Haggerty says a nice driver is currently under $9,000

That leaves you about $5200 difference to spend and not get upside down in this car.

You just bought it so there is little of no sentimental value to it.

So keep it - because selling it to someone else would not be right.

Learn more - always fun to learn

Make your new hobby to find a 71 - 73 mustang that is an incredible buy. They are out there.

Paid to much for this one - Pay to little for the next one - it all balances out.

You end up with a good car to work on along with a rusty car for parts.

Not a bad place to start restoring your first car.

- Paul

Thanks, great advice

 

[Mister 4x4]

Haha yes we have a couple shops on base I'm going to look in to. Yes, usmc. After this next deployment I'll come back with some more money to put into her. Can't wait ha thanks for the pick up

Good to hear! They should have all the basic tools, as well as some things like a welder, grinders, cut-off tools, nibblers, air chisel, and such to get you through it. Pick up some spot-weld cutters and also some of the "Assembly" manuals for your car - they'll help immensely in seeing how the things you take off go back together.

https://www.npdlink.com/store/catalog/Mustang_Assembly_Manuals-2975-1.html

As far as deployment, come back safe, Brother! ::thumb::

 

[Zach145]

Will do! Thanks for the advice

 

[droptop73]

All the best with your project, whichever way you decide to go.

I understand wanting to gain experience, be careful not to get into a project where you get discouraged by the amount of time and money dropped into it. My best advice for ANYONE just getting into the car hobby is to buy the best car you can afford. For what you'll have into parts to fix this one you should be able to find a real nice shell to transfer the best parts into and put together a running car to enjoy. Then if you're so inclined... cut chop and weld on this shell to your hearts content, youre NOT going to ruin it... mother nature already has.

 

[Zach145]

Hahaha good point

 

[OMS]

Haha I can weld and cut. It's all metal work in the end. I'm in it for the experience as well. Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I'm looking for on this page. Where to start, who to get it from, and help along the way. I'm down for the elbow grease, busted knuckles, and puzzle pieces along the way. Haha

For the big sheet metal items

Dynacorn has a warehouse 2 hours away from you

I can arrange parts pick up to save the shipping cost

Don

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

the first step on such a project ids to remove the front fenders and verify the VIN number is matching to that on the dash and door. Any investment of time and money in a car, that you can't afford to lose, should start with this step.

Thank you for your service and good luck.

 

[midlife]

You paid a fair price for the car, and so long as you use discretionary income funds for refurbishment/restoration and consider the work as a hobby, you'll be never underwater financially.

Enjoy the journey to your destination; the former is often more enjoyable than the latter.

 

[Zach145]

Haha I can weld and cut. It's all metal work in the end. I'm in it for the experience as well. Thanks for the reply. That's exactly what I'm looking for on this page. Where to start, who to get it from, and help along the way. I'm down for the elbow grease, busted knuckles, and puzzle pieces along the way. Haha

For the big sheet metal items

Dynacorn has a warehouse 2 hours away from you

I can arrange parts pick up to save the shipping cost

Don

Thanks don! I'm gonna have to wait till I get back from deployment to start that work. I'm focusing on replacing all moving parts and any smaller projects first with how little time I have to actually put forward on the car. I'm gonna have to save the cutting, welding, and grinding till I get back. By small jobs I mean week long jobs max. Just so I can actually drive it and park it somewhere safe while I'm gone. I don't want someone to deal with parts and pieces anywhere

You paid a fair price for the car, and so long as you use discretionary income funds for refurbishment/restoration and consider the work as a hobby, you'll be never underwater financially.

Enjoy the journey to your destination; the former is often more enjoyable than the latter.

Good tips, that is for the most part what I plan on doing. For me, I'm not too worried about what the car is worth compared to what I put into it. I'm more interested in the achievements and learning process along the way.

the first step on such a project ids to remove the front fenders and verify the VIN number is matching to that on the dash and door. Any investment of time and money in a car, that you can't afford to lose, should start with this step.

Thank you for your service and good luck.

What happens if they don't match? I have not checked yet. Tried removing the fenders earlier to get at the door hinges better but had to resort to other means because I couldn't figure out a method to taking them off around the headlight area... Any tips or easy methods to get to the right bolts and the hard to reach ones? I have a couple flex extension, lots of regular and "rounded tip" (I can't think of the term) extensions. Is there a method to the madness? And once I get there, where is the vin #?

All the best with your project, whichever way you decide to go.

I understand wanting to gain experience, be careful not to get into a project where you get discouraged by the amount of time and money dropped into it. My best advice for ANYONE just getting into the car hobby is to buy the best car you can afford. For what you'll have into parts to fix this one you should be able to find a real nice shell to transfer the best parts into and put together a running car to enjoy. Then if you're so inclined... cut chop and weld on this shell to your hearts content, youre NOT going to ruin it... mother nature already has.

Haha you are correct, nature has had its way with her. I plan on doing plenty of learning with this one

 

[kidwithfastback=fast]

I think that you've got a good canvas to learn a lot of good skills on. So even if you walk away penniless, you'll still have all the knowlege gained from the experience.

P.S. (to seasoned members)

I'm trying to find the Frank Cone sticker on there.

 

[cudak888]

That's the worst blistering I've seen in a long time without holes - and there will be holes!

That said, the front crossmember seems pretty good and dry, rather at odds with the rest. How are your rear framerails and floorpans (passenger's side especially, given the cowl)?

-Kurt

 

[Zach145]

That's the worst blistering I've seen in a long time without holes - and there will be holes!

That said, the front crossmember seems pretty good and dry, rather at odds with the rest. How are your rear framerails and floorpans (passenger's side especially, given the cowl)?

-Kurt

No clue what those are ha, but shot in the dark, probably looking a little rusty ha

 

[cudak888]

No clue what those are ha, but shot in the dark, probably looking a little rusty ha

Look under the back of the car. On either side of the gas tank will be a box-section steel framerail welded onto the floorpan. Your rear leaf springs will connect to these framerails with shackles.

This is what they look like with the trunk floor removed. The rear crossmember is the section joining the two framerails closest to the camera:

This is the RH framerail (without the crossmember welded in):

And this is what you don't want to find at all - the framerail rotted through with the rear of the car supported entirely by the trunk floor. If you have this, you'll need to weld in a replacement frame rail before driving the car:

Also look at your trunk floor. With the rot you have on the quarters, it is highly possible that both the trunk floor and the gas tank hanger strap (the crossbar closer to the differential in the photo below, just above the rear sway bar - also seen hanging from the LH side of the frame the first photo I posted) are rotting. Last thing you need is for your gas tank to drop on you while driving.

-Kurt

 

[DK73]

Hi and welcome to this good site to spendt time[emoji2] and congrats whit your Coupe and iam looking forward too seeing project [emoji6] Regards DK73

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Regards DK73

 

[Zach145]

No clue what those are ha, but shot in the dark, probably looking a little rusty ha

Look under the back of the car. On either side of the gas tank will be a box-section steel framerail welded onto the floorpan. Your rear leaf springs will connect to these framerails with shackles.

This is what they look like with the trunk floor removed. The rear crossmember is the section joining the two framerails closest to the camera:

This is the RH framerail (without the crossmember welded in):

And this is what you don't want to find at all - the framerail rotted through with the rear of the car supported entirely by the trunk floor. If you have this, you'll need to weld in a replacement frame rail before driving the car:

Also look at your trunk floor. With the rot you have on the quarters, it is highly possible that both the trunk floor and the gas tank hanger strap (the crossbar closer to the differential in the photo below, just above the rear sway bar - also seen hanging from the LH side of the frame the first photo I posted) are rotting. Last thing you need is for your gas tank to drop on you while driving.

-Kurt

Ok I'll check it out, I don't think I remember seeing anything nearly that bad, ill post pictures of it

 

[73vertproject]

::welcome::

Welcome to the club, Zach. I merged your two similar threads so people wouldn't have to read and then post the same information in two different threads. Hope you don't mind.

Looks like a great project you've got there, with plenty of work ahead of you. Keep us updated with your progress. And thank you for your service! :salute:

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Once you check the vin #'s below the fenders, if they don't match, you have a stolen car, or one with a huge title problem. As to what you do . . .

I'd sue the seller and put no money into the car if that were to be the case. You will have to make your own decision on how to proceed IF you find such a problem. Being a coupe in rough condition, I sort of doubt it will be an issue on your car.

 

[mach71351c]

::welcome:: Zach From Escondido.

Zach I know this car, you got on wilson street in Escondido. About 3 blocks from my house. Yes the car is very rough but on the bright side it's a M code 351 with AC and factory tech. Now for some more good news I have allot of spare parts. I have a nice front valance and doors. So feel free to contact me.

Mike

PM sent.

 

[DK73]

Hi that's a lot of work you need to get done [emoji6] but it's looking so grait the work you have done. So keep me updated whit your project [emoji2] Regards DK73

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Regards DK73