View attachment 69258
I took out the center gauges as everything was in the Dakota gauges
In our 1973 Mach 1 and our 1973 Mustang Convertible I took out their original idiot light laden instrument panels, and installed a set of Dakota VHX analog gauge equipped instrument panels (also). Like your experience, we are very pleased with how they look and work. Our center vertical bezel never had the three factory gauges, and I did not want the analog gauges to be put there, so the Dakota solution was ideal for our purposes. We did add Air Conditioning to both Mustangs (neither had factory A/C), and the Classic Air add-on air conditioning system used the top of the bezel as an A/C vent outlet. But, the part of the bezel that has the MUSTANG plate was still there, and bare looking. I wanted to have a GPS, so I mounted a Garmin Drive 72 GPS in that area, using a 2 " x 2" x 1" block of clear Acrylic plastic adhered (3M "Extremely Strong" double side tape) to the depressed part of the bezel where the "MUSTANG" name is presented. Then I used a screw mounted GPS display base to install that mount, using 3 self tapping sheet metal screws. The GPS sits there perfectly, and I can adjust its viewing angle quite nicely. Further, it is not interfering with the A/C vent registers, or access to the radio.
The Garmin Drive 52 unit has a camera display option (as do several other Garmin devices). In our case the cameras feature a wireless video feed. So for our backup camera I only had to run a switched 12 volt wire leading from the fuse block to the trunk, which is used to power the camera and the video signal wireless transmitter - which works well. But, I can have up to 4 such wireless video cameras if I want. So, I added a 2nd camera to both cars for the front bumper, so when I pull into our garage stalls I can see the distanced between the bumper and the wall! That leaves me room for 2 more cameras but I really can't think of any practical need for more cameras, unless I wanted to add cameras to the side mirrors to check for side clearance - but with two hemispherical spot mirrors adhered to the side mirrors already I have no need to do that, so I won't.
I mention the Garmin and backup cameras, and where/how I mounted them, because I thought that may be of interest to you or other Big Nose Mustangs owners might find it of interest. Attached are some files showing mounting details. That Garmin screw mounted base part is shown in one of the attached photo files, as well as the 3M "Extremely Strong" double side tape. I used a switched power source from the fuse block that feeds the Center Console two 12 volt sockets, dual port USB outlet, and digital voltmeter in the console's Power Panel (fabricated to replace its ash tray). The GPS display unit, as well as the center console's Power Panel, were initially supplied current when put the bared end of a 12 gauge wire under the fused end of a fuse that is powered on when the ignition switch is in the Run or Accessory position. I later installed a Wirthco brand Fuse Tap to the fused end of the fuse being used to power the Center Console and GPS display unit, which makes for a better, cleaner looking connection.
With respect to the Fuse Taps available, one design is held in place on only one side of the fuse, the other encircles the full end of a Buss glass, cylindrical fuse end. The 2nd style looks more durable, but I found it adds so much thickness to the end of the fuse it is attached to that it is too wide to fit properly into the fuse holder. I actually broke the glass on two fuses when trying to get the end of the fuse into its holder when the fully encircled version of the Fuse Tap was used. Hence, I recommend the single sided Fuse Tap design, as it is still a good connection, but it is not so wide that it makes it hard to insert the Buss fuse into its holder in the Fuse Block. The photos of the two different Wirthco Fuse Taps provided do not clearly show their differences, just because of the angle the devices are photographed from. But, the photo indicating it is the RoundTapper is the version I found resulted in too tight a fit to be installed easily. The other Fuse Tap photos of both NAPA Part #: NW 784637, and from Summit Racing Part #HO3020, both of which are the single sided design Fuse Tap I recommend (there is a Wirthco part for the single side Fuse Tap also, but I could not find it). The Wirthco branded Fuse Taps were purchased via Amazon (beforeI realized the thickness problem they caused).