New front end finishing touches added 3/8" spacers & eliminated saddle squeaks.

[Paul M]

I just rebuilt this front end a month ago. I used the 1" lowered spring which is also thicker, anyway I've been intending on adding the 3/8" polyurethane spacer/insulators. Which almost doubles the height lets say 3/4" ht. While I'm at it, I'm adding these saddles, that have grease fittings, they are sealed and rotate 360. They are labeled Boss... I think that's a gimmic. This seems like the best route short of all out bearing saddles, which are overkill. I needed the ht for the slight rub on a hard right down the driveway. I also had an annoying squeak, from the other saddles. This was pretty easy until the stupid rubber pads kept coming off while I put the spring on. They have lil rubber **** that stick through a hole and don't hold worth a sh!t. I'm adding safety wire to the other side to hold them. Good ol aircraft safety wire pliers n stainless wire will save me 8 cuss words.

 

[Aus73Mach1]

I have just fitted the same saddles with the grease fittings after trying to find the odd annoying rattle and squeak in the front end. No amount of spray silicone, etc would fix the noises so I decided to pull the control arm and investigate as they appeared to be off center. The original new Scott Drake junk lasted only a couple of thousand Klms. The inner steel bush is only held in by tabs pressed together and these were loose and rattling. It also moved sideways allowing the metal to scrub on the side of the control arm. Both sides were much the same.

 

[Cleveland Crush]

I just rebuilt this front end a month ago. I used the 1" lowered spring which is also thicker, anyway I've been intending on adding the 3/8" polyurethane spacer/insulators. Which almost doubles the height lets say 3/4" ht. While I'm at it, I'm adding these saddles, that have grease fittings, they are sealed and rotate 360. They are labeled Boss... I think that's a gimmic. This seems like the best route short of all out bearing saddles, which are overkill. I needed the ht for the slight rub on a hard right down the driveway. I also had an annoying squeak, from the other saddles. This was pretty easy until the stupid rubber pads kept coming off while I put the spring on. They have lil rubber **** that stick through a hole and don't hold worth a sh!t. I'm adding safety wire to the other side to hold them. Good ol aircraft safety wire pliers n stainless wire will save me 8 cuss words.

I see you couldn't resist detailing your wheel studs Grabber Blue

 

[Paul M]

I have just fitted the same saddles with the grease fittings after trying to find the odd annoying rattle and squeak in the front end. No amount of spray silicone, etc would fix the noises so I decided to pull the control arm and investigate as they appeared to be off center. The original new Scott Drake junk lasted only a couple of thousand Klms. The inner steel bush is only held in by tabs pressed together and these were loose and rattling. It also moved sideways allowing the metal to scrub on the side of the control arm. Both sides were much the same.

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Ye I tried the silicone spray and it worked for a week. The old ones also made noise. That annoying squeak had to go. I didn't rebuild the front end only to increase the noise. I hope the so-called heavy-duty ones w/ the grease fittings are working for ya, it's a lot of extra work.

 

[Paul M]

I see you couldn't resist detailing your wheel studs Grabber Blue

Of course, by installing the after mkt. wheels, I had to replace the wheel studs. 1/2-20 x 3" w/a .615 knurl, they have a tip on them. I simply cut off the tips. You don't have to drill a hole in your backing plate if you cut the tips off making them 2 3/4" you can fenagle them in. I couldn't leave them bare metal they would be rust by now. The blue looked so cool on them that I stole the center caps off my GTO Cragar super tricks before I sold it. Those center caps also have blue markings, they are proud of them if you can find them.

 

[Vern Cook]

I don't know if anybody else has felt this but I have found polyurethane spacer/insulators can give you a harder ride. I guess it might be worth it if you want to be lightening around corners.

 

[Paul M]

I don't know if anybody else has felt this but I have found polyurethane spacer/insulators can give you a harder ride. I guess it might be worth it if you want to be lightening around corners.

They seem to effect the stiffness on a few of the other front-end parts like the sway bars more than the tops of the springs. I needed that 3/8" which in turn is 3/4" by front end ht/inc comparisons. I drove the hell out of it today and I'm impressed with the cornering on this.

 

[Paul M]

I finally nailed the suspension. I used some old shackles, found my stock spacing, grabbed that 1 1/2" hole above it and chopped the rest off. The front end doubles the effect while the rearend gives you 50% of what you space it with. 1 1/2" is 3/4" in ht. It took muliple attempts to get this suspension right. I drove it through some hard corners this evening. It corners great. I have dished wheels "which I wanted personally" and is a no no on these. You can go inward on these another inch w/back spacing. I had my mind set on this old school slot appearance. I had to have that dish on the wheels, so I had to build the suspension @ them. + I have fairly wide tires & it's worth it when cornering. This drives like a lighter/smaller car. It's 1" drop springs in front .720 vs .650 thicker add a 3/8" urethane spacer/insulators. HD saddles w/grease fittings. Rear 5 leaf springs with 1 1/2 shackles. I used my trusty 15yr/old Harbor ft chop saw. I keep forgetting to replace that cut off wheel.. lmao. Not to forget this came w/a competition suspension w/rear staggered shocks and rear sway bar.

 

[Vern Cook]

Hey Paul, you are really putting some science to work on this. Love the creativity and really glad its working so well for you.

 

[Paul M]

Hey Paul, you are really putting some science to work on this. Love the creativity and really glad its working so well for you.

Ha that's just common sense on what to do with a original configuration, if your wheels you chose were too big in the outward direction. If I was to keep the car I'd prob. pull all of it out & go coil over and ditch the stamped steel n go tubular. The rear wouldn't be leaf. It just doesn't add value to this car at the moment. I just got back from driving it, finally ready for an actual alignment.

 

[Vern Cook]

I guess you can tell I'm a newbie at this. It's probable because I am so young. I'm only 73

 

[Paul M]

I guess you can tell I'm a newbie at this. It's probable because I am so young. I'm only 73

Ha I'm 59 going on 30. You are as young as you feel. My recommendation is never quit moving add a lil gas pedal exhilaration.