New Member in AZ, Joined to try and put together a Build plan for a 1973 Mach 1 that is in need of total restoration, trying to keep it simple cheap

[73 mach 1 1962]

So I got the Motor and Trans out. Its a 351M coupled to I dont know what Trans, Still need to Clean it. I am assuming it came from the Same Truck the Motor came from seeing how the Linkage was jury rigged. I picked up the 8.8 rear and Am waiting on parts for the Install. I got to thinking after pulling out the Drive train that I would really like to convert to a Stick, but I am afraid I might be limited in Manual trans Options with the 351M motor. Any one familiar with a Manual trans swap for a 351 M?? Maybe better to swap back to a Proper motor?

Welcome from San Diego. Looks like a solid car.

Thanks, It is in great shape, everything comes apart easily!

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Welcome from NW Oregon, have fun with the build!

Thanks!

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

I've been lowering my Mustangs for decades and never had issues getting the alignment in spec. If you go more than an inch on the front you may run into bump steer issues.

I went with the 1 Lowering springs front and REar!

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Welcome abroad from Opelika, Alabama

Thanks!

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

No such thing as a stupid question. 4V stands for 4 venturi carb. M code (71) and Q code (72-73) were 4 venturi carbs. M code were closed chamber heads whereas Q code were open chamber heads. There's a lot more differences, but not for here right now.
Many people confuse a 351C M code engine to a 351M engine, which were quite a bit different. The 400 was a longer stroked version. To my limited knowledge, 351M/400 engines were used in pickup trucks.
I'm sure others will confirm that or blow it out of the water.
There are a couple of good books on the market that fully describe the 351C if you're interested.
Ford Cleveland, 335- series V8 engine, 1970-1982 by Des Hammill.

Ford 351 Cleveland engines, How to Build for Max Performance by George Reid.

Thanks for the Info, Im in Hold right now, trying to figure out what Standard trans I can bolt to the 351M and if it would be better to Swap Motors also. I understand the Bell housing is different from the 351C due to the Higher deck. I was a challenge getting the Motor/ trans out!

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

The tag is from a 1976 351M/400 engine. Those are both of the 335 Series engines, aka the Cleveland engine family, but are a tall deck / long rod version. Maybe post a pic with the air cleaner off so we can see what's up with the engine.

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Engine and Trans!

 

[cjstaci]

The 351m and 400 engines used the big block 429/460 bellhousing bolt pattern. You can get a bellhousing or scatter shield for top loader 4 spd or any of the aftermarket transmission bolt patterns.
The 351m and 400 engines were designed to meet the more stringent emissions requirements and were replacement’s for the 390 fe engines. They were used in full size cars in the early 1970’s and pickup trucks starting in 1977. If you do an internet search you will find a ton of information.

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

The 351m and 400 engines used the big block 429/460 bellhousing bolt pattern. You can get a bellhousing or scatter shield for top loader 4 spd or any of the aftermarket transmission bolt patterns.
The 351m and 400 engines were designed to meet the more stringent emissions requirements and were replacement’s for the 390 fe engines. They were used in full size cars in the early 1970’s and pickup trucks starting in 1977. If you do an internet search you will find a ton of information.

Thanks!

 

[Hemikiller]

You can get a bellhousing for the 429, but they are *not* cheap. A factory bell is a fairly rare item, only used on cars. The truck bell is easier to find, but is deeper (IIRC) and will cause you issues fitting up a toploader. You'd have to fool around with the input shaft. Blow shield is another option, but again, not cheap.

Much of the info you'll find on the internet will tell you that the 351M/400 were junk, but that's more a reflection of the times and the emissions tune needed to make them pass smog checks. At the core, they're just a tall deck 351C, and respond to modifications in the same way. The later heads have air injection bumps in the exhaust ports, but are otherwise nearly identical to the 351-2V heads of 70~74. There's about a 40lb weight penalty over a 351C.

Pull the pan and check the first counterweight on the crankshaft. 351M cranks are cast with aa 1K identifier, the 400 cranks are 5M/5MA/5MAB.

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

Great Info! I did notice that the Engine and Trans were difficult to get out due to minimal clearance at the Deck/ top of Bell housing to the Tunnel, Making me re-think using the 351 M. I'm sure it will be even more difficult fitting it back in!

 

[Spike Morelli]

I don't know, and can't really tell from the photos, but I think I would aggressively steam clean the engine compartment and under body. Literally EVERYTHING you will do on a car will start with cleaning down to the paint. At that point, you can decide how far you need to go with bringing something back. I would never consider hopping up the engine or higher performance additions until the base car platform was, at least, as solid as it was stock. Money-wise, surrender yourself to the notion that doing most things in life will cost. We all try to save as we can, but spend on what is necessary. A good example, is what Jay Leno told an interviewer on TV. Jay was asked, "Can you make money on restoring cars?" Jay said, "Not if it's done right." That's the Gospel right there.

 

[73 mach 1 1962]

I don't know, and can't really tell from the photos, but I think I would aggressively steam clean the engine compartment and under body. Literally EVERYTHING you will do on a car will start with cleaning down to the paint. At that point, you can decide how far you need to go with bringing something back. I would never consider hopping up the engine or higher performance additions until the base car platform was, at least, as solid as it was stock. Money-wise, surrender yourself to the notion that doing most things in life will cost. We all try to save as we can, but spend on what is necessary. A good example, is what Jay Leno told an interviewer on TV. Jay was asked, "Can you make money on restoring cars?" Jay said, "Not if it's done right." That's the Gospel right there.

My Plan at this POint it to Complete Mock up the 8.8 rear, Complete the Replacement of all of the Front End Components, then have a roller so I can get the Body out side my Shop and give her a good cleaning. Did I mention the Wiring Harness is also a Mess!

 

[Spike Morelli]

You might shoot for a 9" rear. which is what your car should have come with. They were widely used in so many cars by Ford, and hopefully you can scrounge one up. Check everywhere, I see them on Facebook Marketplace a lot. It's a shame that I'm not ready yet, Winter being here, to install my new 351c in my Mach, as I will be pulling out my stock 351c, and will be offering it to someone like you who needs it. That won't happen until next summer. So far as using a 351M / 400, if a high winding performance engine is your target, the 351C is the engine of choice. The 351c has much more performance potential. The 351c Clevelands at high rpm do need to have lifter oiling issues addressed for rpm useage, but the 351m and 400 are even more critical, in that their main bearing journals are larger. Good for bearing torque loads, but, high in bearing speed and requiring more oiling attention at rpm than a "C" does, and of course, longer rods, again torquier, but not rpm friendly. ( Interesting, that 427 FE and 351C engines use the same diameter main journal size, Ford had rpm in mind). Wiring? That can be so frustrating, as , there was a time when these cars were just old cars, not worth more than $200, and people hacked everything, especially wiring. I'm a bit anal about wiring, I want it to have the correct connectors, be the right guage and color. Just the desire to add an aftermarket stereo system usually ends up butchering the wiring and door panels/ package tray, and fixing that today can run into unplanned expenses. I feel that I was fairly lucky in that I bought mine used when they weren't selling for much, and the previous owner took care of it mechanically, as well as stored it garaged. As for your project, I hope we can all help you get squared away here on the boards. These cars are fun to drive, and although Ford sold more of these Mustangs than Chevy sold of Camaros in '71-'73, you don't see the later Mustangs as much as Camaros and the earlier Mustangs. There's pride in fixing up and owning a car that not everyone has.