New Old Stock Parts: Not Always a Good Choice

[mustang7173]

All,

Very interesting. I was going to install some NOS weather stripping, but have decided to go with the new stuff.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/1601-new-old-stock-parts-not-always-a-good-choice/?_wcsid=4354DC5D10B98094901E9AE643EE14DD22DC955AEF4BCA8B

mustang7173 :bravo:

 

[Mac]

All,

Very interesting. I was going to install some NOS weather stripping, but have decided to go with the new stuff.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts/1601-new-old-stock-parts-not-always-a-good-choice/?_wcsid=4354DC5D10B98094901E9AE643EE14DD22DC955AEF4BCA8B

mustang7173 :bravo:

Very true regarding rubber gasket items. A few years ago the gasket in my shifter bezel ripped. O.K. no big deal, I knew I had a spare NOS one on the shelf unopened. Opened it only to discover it had partially dissolved in the pack. An aftermarket one is in it now.

The only issue that I see with aftermarket seals is sometimes the fit is not quite there on some brands. Also if you are going for concourse - be aware a factory trunk lid seal has a series of small holes in it to allow the seal to compress when you close the lid. All of the aftermarket ones that I've seen so far do not have these holes.

Mac

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I totally agree with them on that point. Steel stamped parts and zinc are a good investment and some of the things like wheel centers and hub caps with plastic centers are ok. It is things like the clips for your trim for vinyl roof and any rubber parts I would stay away from them. I just sold some NOS Ford econoline van door gaskets for way cheap because I knew they will not hold up. I have several sets of NOS tail light seals but I will use repo when I do my car. Some people swear they are better but I do not see it.

I have a ton of NOS Fel-Pro gasket sets and when I sell them I tell the buyer that they can bet the rubber and cork items are not any good just the steel, copper and heavy asbestos head gaskets and such are still good. Interior goods as long as they have not be hot a lot will stay good for a long time. If seats were in Arizona / California it is a good bet they are crispy. Same with the plastic panels. If you are looking for good interior parts look in the northern states I see much better parts there not turned to powder on the surface and still have the texture. Lots of rust on metal but good interior stuff.

David

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Also if you are going for concourse - be aware a factory trunk lid seal has a series of small holes in it to allow the seal to compress when you close the lid. All of the aftermarket ones that I've seen so far do not have these holes.
Mac

Interesting, that might explain why so many of us have had a hard time closing our trunks after installing new after market trunk seals. It sounds as if the solution might be to simply punching a few small holes in the after market seal so it'll compress like the original seal.

 

[Thin Lizzy]

My new old stock 71-72 Urethane bumper (that came in the original Ford box) sticks out 1/2 inch either side of the front quarter panels. Don't know if they come under soft parts but they don't fit properly.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

Interesting, that might explain why so many of us have had a hard time closing our trunks after installing new after market trunk seals. It sounds as if the solution might be to simply punching a few small holes in the after market seal so it'll compress like the original seal.

My experience is to pay the additional $5 to get the Dan Carpenter reproduction trunk molding which is soft right out of the package. (It also comes with the correct profile and holes). I gave up on the first set of reproduction molding after it refused to conform or make closing easier after 3 years (I forgot who made it, but it only cost $10). The Dan Carpenter molding ($14) worked perfectly after installing in about two weeks.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Interesting, that might explain why so many of us have had a hard time closing our trunks after installing new after market trunk seals. It sounds as if the solution might be to simply punching a few small holes in the after market seal so it'll compress like the original seal.

My experience is to pay the additional $5 to get the Dan Carpenter reproduction trunk molding which is soft right out of the package. (It also comes with the correct profile and holes). I gave up on the first set of reproduction molding after it refused to conform or make closing easier after 3 years (I forgot who made it, but it only cost $10). The Dan Carpenter molding ($14) worked perfectly after installing in about two weeks.

I guess Daniel Carpenter is Dennis Carpenters son, I don't know that for sure. If so his operation is in Charlotte near the race track. I visited once and they took me through the maze of add on buildings. He uses original equipment making the seals and he also make stainless trim using original roll form machines. He also picks up some of Fords original tooling so you know those parts will fit better. He does rubber parts, plastic, zinc and also metal stamping. He has been in business for years I think 1940 Ford dash nobs was his first part he made and just kept going.

Great parts for sure,

David

 

[digithead]

Interesting, that might explain why so many of us have had a hard time closing our trunks after installing new after market trunk seals. It sounds as if the solution might be to simply punching a few small holes in the after market seal so it'll compress like the original seal.

My experience is to pay the additional $5 to get the Dan Carpenter reproduction trunk molding which is soft right out of the package. (It also comes with the correct profile and holes). I gave up on the first set of reproduction molding after it refused to conform or make closing easier after 3 years (I forgot who made it, but it only cost $10). The Dan Carpenter molding ($14) worked perfectly after installing in about two weeks.

Where did you buy the Dan Carpenter one? I see CJPONYPARTS as a distributor and CJ doesnt say who makes it. I got one from CJ and of course cant close the lid now.

I guess Daniel Carpenter is Dennis Carpenters son, I don't know that for sure. If so his operation is in Charlotte near the race track. I visited once and they took me through the maze of add on buildings. He uses original equipment making the seals and he also make stainless trim using original roll form machines. He also picks up some of Fords original tooling so you know those parts will fit better. He does rubber parts, plastic, zinc and also metal stamping. He has been in business for years I think 1940 Ford dash nobs was his first part he made and just kept going.

Great parts for sure,

David

 

[OMS]

My experience is to pay the additional $5 to get the Dan Carpenter reproduction trunk molding which is soft right out of the package. (It also comes with the correct profile and holes). I gave up on the first set of reproduction molding after it refused to conform or make closing easier after 3 years (I forgot who made it, but it only cost $10). The Dan Carpenter molding ($14) worked perfectly after installing in about two weeks.

Where did you buy the Dan Carpenter one? I see CJPONYPARTS as a distributor and CJ doesnt say who makes it. I got one from CJ and of course cant close the lid now.

Every piece of Daniel Carpenter w-strip I have has a label on the package.

DCMR 71-3 trunk w-strip does not have holes in it that I have seen.

I carry the USA version, I don't think there is a China option on these yet.

DCMR now makes many of his w-strips in the original USA version and a economy China version. The market wants the cheap parts.

I always stock / sell the USA one if there is an option.

Every trunk lid seal I have done on the 71-3's has had to sit for close to two weeks before it " seats in "

Usually you need to adjust the catch up a bit, then lower it back down in a week or so.

If you can let the car sit outside in the sun it will speed up the process.

Don't stress out over it - sounds pretty normal, give it some time