New project for this winter. 71 Mach 1

7173Mustangs.com

Help Support 7173Mustangs.com:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Another small update. Got the cowl patched up.  Cut out one small spot that was bad and have a little bit of sanding to do on it but overall it turned out good. Even though you will never see it!! 











 
https://ibb.co/jaH3Yv[/URL]

:banana: Got the rest of the passenger side fender apron patched up. Turned out pretty good. Should be able to get the drivers side done this weekend. By my calculations, that should finish up ALL the metal work !!!! 

IMG_0742.jpg


 




 


https://imgbb.com/upload image

 




 


https://imgbb.com/pic upload

 




 


https://imgbb.com/image upload

 




 


https://imgbb.com/where to post images

 




 


https://imgbb.com/image hosting

 

 




 


BEFORE 


 

 




 


https://imgbb.com/image resizing service

 

 




 

 

 




 

 


AFTER 


 

 




 




 
Last edited by a moderator:
Last edited by a moderator:
Started block sanding today! So much fun!!  This is the part of the job I really hate. But I was able to get half the roof done and the driver side quarter panel. I did this first cut with 220 grit. I did break through the primer in a couple spots and found a couple pin holes in the filler underneath. So I had a few questions for all you body work gurus. I will probably post a separate thread with these questions too just in case some guys don't get to check this thread.  So do I need to shoot the whole car again with primer then sand with 400 grit? Or can I just shoot over the areas that sanded through then sand with 400? And what is the best way to deal with the pinholes? Do I need to sand to bare metal then filler? Or just scuff primer and use  icing filler? Then prime and sand with 400? Thanks for looking  









image upload





free png image



 
You will get a plethora of opinions on that one man. Here's mine. For what it's worth, works for me. What kind of primer? Urethane is good for filling, epoxy recommended on bare metal. A polyester filler , I use dolphin glaze , will fill your pin holes. Be sure you clean them out well or even dig them out slightly . Problem if any dust is left in them pin holes . On bare metal Spots, I will usually dolly them or grind it gently and re coat with a self leveling polyester filler. Re Prime just over your re worked areas as long as you then use a sealer on the whole car before color coat. Hope that helps.

 
This is driving me nuts- a few pages back there was mention of a turtle... I've been looking for a turtle... please tell me there's a turtle and it's not just your screen name.

Nice work otherwise!

When you make patches what kind of sheet metal do you use/where do you get it? I've done this kind of thing before but cut scraps out of old panels, I may be embarking on something like this soon and some virgin steel would be really nice.

 
Thanks Ray and Mark for the input and replies!! ::thumb::

Mark,

There was a turtle. But unfortunately he passed away a few years ago. :angel:   It was a pet paint turtle that I had for over 20 years. So that's where the screen name came from. I have had the same email  handle since the late 90's!

As far as the metal, I get 4'x4' sheets of new sheetmetal from a local metal shop in town. They are fairly inexpensive. I can get a 4x4 sheet for about what Lowes or Home depot wants for a small patch panel.  I usually keep 18 gauge and 20 gauge on hand. I use the 18 for the flatter stuff and small bends. And use the 20 for compound curves that I have to make by hand. The 18 and 20 usually covers most of anything on the car but I do keep smaller pieces of 16 gauge on hand. I do a lot of fabricating and have built up a nice supply of steel over the years. Flat stock, angle iron, square tubing, round stock, pipe, ect. Keep it all on a rack/shelf and dig through it when I need something. If you have a local metal shop always ask if they have any "drops". If you go in and tell them you need a 42" piece they will shear a piece off a new panel and charge you for the cut. But if you ask for drops they will show you what they have of left over full sheets that have been cut. You might need a 42" piece and they have a 45" piece for example..... it will cost less for the larger piece because they don't have to fire up the shear. Just a helpful hint!!

Thanks for checking out my project!!

 
There was a turtle. But unfortunately he passed away a few years ago. :angel:   It was a pet paint turtle that I had for over 20 years. So that's where the screen name came from. I have had the same email  handle since the late 90's!
Lol, I mean not about the turtle, I was looking through all the pictures before that comment trying to find a turtle in them  :shootself:

As far as the metal, I get 4'x4' sheets of new sheetmetal from a local metal shop in town. They are fairly inexpensive. I can get a 4x4 sheet for about what Lowes or Home depot wants for a small patch panel.  I usually keep 18 gauge and 20 gauge on hand. I use the 18 for the flatter stuff and small bends. And use the 20 for compound curves that I have to make by hand. The 18 and 20 usually covers most of anything on the car but I do keep smaller pieces of 16 gauge on hand. I do a lot of fabricating and have built up a nice supply of steel over the years. Flat stock, angle iron, square tubing, round stock, pipe, ect. Keep it all on a rack/shelf and dig through it when I need something. If you have a local metal shop always ask if they have any "drops". If you go in and tell them you need a 42" piece they will shear a piece off a new panel and charge you for the cut. But if you ask for drops they will show you what they have of left over full sheets that have been cut. You might need a 42" piece and they have a 45" piece for example..... it will cost less for the larger piece because they don't have to fire up the shear. Just a helpful hint!!
I do a lot of metal fab also (used to do custom work for a local speed shop and do some machining/welding work that I contract to a local machine shop), but in my case it's all heavier stuff, nothing thinner then about 1/8" in my scrap pile.  My local metal shop never seems to have anything but heavier hot rolled... I've never seen the thinner stuff anywhere beside Lowes/HD.  I haven't found a good source for thinner or cold rolled.

As far as the drops go... I've never had any luck with that.  They don't have the great big drop section like some do, and the last time I was there I found what I needed there and they actually wanted more for the drop then they did for making the cut (they ended up taking the drop and cutting a foot off of it anyway).

Maybe I need to find a new metal yard...  :-/

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Got the body all blocked with 220 and got another coat of primer on the car and got the doors blocked down with 220. Ready to start wet sanding with the 400. Also got all the holes drilled in quarter panels and tail light panel for trim. 











 
Last edited by a moderator:
Kevin, The holes that run along the bottom of the tail light panel need to be welded up! The holes are for 73 bumper filler panel. Only 1 hole should be their for licence plate light.

mach 1 resto 010.jpg

tail panel 012.jpg

 
Back
Top